squires turbo systems remote mount, update
#377
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no, there arnt any updates yet
DTP is fixing the kinks with the custom fabrication of this kit. there is always going to be kinks when you are fabricating things....
Some of the guys that have been posting in here and telling about stuff that i obviously have no clue about and believing them... Well it got me, not really chewed out, but talked to by DTP. So from now on, can you guys not criticize their work. They are a really good shop, you just have to understand this is a custom fabrication being done and there are going to be kinks and bumps in the road.
So as soon as i have something to post about progress, ill post it... till then, please stop criticizing, and filling my head up with things that are not true such is convincing me that it was 3 inch pipping when in fact as i stated in a post earlier that it is the correct size it needs to be...
To DTP
I apologize for the things i had said, and letting other people influence my believes.
DTP is fixing the kinks with the custom fabrication of this kit. there is always going to be kinks when you are fabricating things....
Some of the guys that have been posting in here and telling about stuff that i obviously have no clue about and believing them... Well it got me, not really chewed out, but talked to by DTP. So from now on, can you guys not criticize their work. They are a really good shop, you just have to understand this is a custom fabrication being done and there are going to be kinks and bumps in the road.
So as soon as i have something to post about progress, ill post it... till then, please stop criticizing, and filling my head up with things that are not true such is convincing me that it was 3 inch pipping when in fact as i stated in a post earlier that it is the correct size it needs to be...
To DTP
I apologize for the things i had said, and letting other people influence my believes.
#383
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#387
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At first i thought that maybe the tune was wrong but once we droped the oil pan and i saw the end cap laying in it and the rod end cap bolts streched trqed and sanped i knew what happend and what caused it.
Also vince is finally tuning a base bolt on a dyno in washington... he hasnt given me any spacifics as to what they are doing and how much boost they are working with but he did tell me that the guy WAS using 42lb injectors and they ran out of fuel at 4,000 rpms, so the guy is upgrading to 60lb injectors
Last edited by xCobalt05x; 06-18-2008 at 06:39 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#390
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the problem was that when i left for deployment i didnt have the freashly built motor broken in yet. I only put 2,600 miles on it and according to the performance shop that did the work i was to change the oil every 1,000 for the first 6,000 miles of engines life. Which i was doing but i left the car with someone i thought i could trust but a parently not. They put 8,000 miles on the car and didnt change the oil even once and that is what caused the bearings to go bad. I heard the noise coming from the engine when i got back from deployment but i just assumed that it was the rocker arms since that was the only top end part that i didnt replace and thought the duel valve springs and cams were wearing them out, ohhhh how wrong i was, lol. At least i had a little bit of fun with the car before it died. lol. beat a buddies mustang from a 25 roll and beat a stock ss/sc from a 50 roll, didnt get to do to much with it after that since the car died on my trip up to michigan.
#391
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damn that sucks about your car dude mines in storage with freshly new parts and some from junk yard as well. oh the junk yard parts are only the turbo gauge the temp gauge and hks turbo timer that i got for 40 bucks, but other than that the internals hack about 275-300 if you change the head gasket but here is the link if you dont have the build book since i got mine from john concialdi from aem. http://tunersource.gmblogs.com/Racer...nce-build-book
im mostly going to be working on my fd out in japan
im mostly going to be working on my fd out in japan
#392
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im not even going to worry about building up the new motor again, im just going to leave it at 10psi maybe 12psi and then just drive it till i can get a second car and then work on the internals again
#396
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Just too bad it died on me on my way home to michigan, I should have shot some vid's from inside the car, after i heard my TiAL BOV truely blow off i actually liked how it sounds. LOL i was deffenately turning heads when i would go WOT from 55mph and blow off at 65mph. LOL that thing was LOUD.
I should make slightly more power on the stock motor since the compression is higher. I just have to make sure i keep it at or around 250 crank horse power so that i dont blow up the new motor till i can get it re-forged again.
I've seriously thought about just getting a wrecked 2.2 motor that has a good block and fine a 2.0 in the junk yard some where and swap the internals. I would swap out the head too but when i was looking at the exhaust ports on the 2.0 compaired to the 2.2, the 2.2 has larger exhaust outlet ports. their not much larger but when i bought a 2.0 exhaust gasket by acident the holes on the gasket were about 2 or 3 mm smaller then the the ports on the 2.2 head. (this was discovered while i was installing the ZZP downpipe and shorty header 1 week prior to blowing the motor up)
#397
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what compression where you running if you were running stock then thats probably why it went bad since the motor couldnt hack all of that and also you were running 11 or 12psi rather than 8 for stock. my buddy blew his at 18 or 19 psi like bye bye motor blew up. but on taking parts off the 2.0 the gm build book will tell you what parts and from what motor are hot swap cuz i want the pistons off the 2.0 and some other internals
#398
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what compression where you running if you were running stock then thats probably why it went bad since the motor couldnt hack all of that and also you were running 11 or 12psi rather than 8 for stock. my buddy blew his at 18 or 19 psi like bye bye motor blew up. but on taking parts off the 2.0 the gm build book will tell you what parts and from what motor are hot swap cuz i want the pistons off the 2.0 and some other internals
the motor was far from stock, if you could take the time to read my signiture, you would know what was in the motor, lol. the only thing stock in the motor was the crank shaft and the rocker arms. as per the build guide my motor was now built to handle 550 crank horse power safely proven
I followed the 2.2 ecotec build guide to a T
the only reason people are running 8 psi on a stock 2.2 is because of the intake manifold. anything over 8psi blows apart the intake manifold. now if you get the 2.4 intake mani for the 2.2 its good for 15+psi, the stock 2.2 on 10psi should make some where around 220 to 230 whp depending on CFM of the turbo and size and all that jaz
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it was still in a conservative tune. we didnt mess with advacing the timing till we could get it on a dyno. He heavaly retarded the timing so that we wouldnt spark nock while street tuning the AFR.
but yes, i feel it was tuned well for a starting point.
but yes, i feel it was tuned well for a starting point.