montecarloman

Yeah thats all you need however when you go to install them you will have to cut some of the rubber off the bottom of the bushings where the rubber contacts the subframe. Also if your going for the FE5 front get the TTR 1" rear solid rear bar. They should balance each other out nicely.

ls1fbody

I wish eibach would come out with their sways. damnit.

I'm running K-sport coilovers and the MRZ strut bar. i have a rebel twin subframe bar and TTR's rear sway sitting in my garage. i would love to throw on some SS/TC knuckles and the BWoody rear brace bar. wonder what class that would put me in for autoX

WeekendWarrior203

Do you recomend a front sway bar? or is a rear and a strut bar good?

YSUsteven

The rear sway bar and the front strut bar are so easy to put on that anyone could do it in 10 mins each.

I would prefer to upgrade my front sway bar, but don't have the time, tools and knowhow to replace it.

If you don't have the tools or the willingness to learn how to do it (I don't right now) then just get the easy stuff for now.

If you are going to upgrade the front bar, you need to add a rear bar, or the car is going to "push" more than it does already.

Maven

iTrader: (1)

Ill just point it out again but be aware that if youve got a high flow cat/dp/or delete and if someone calls you on it youre gonna be taken out of STS and put in STX, which youll likely get annihilated in with an otherwise "mild" Balt.

bluebaltjim

just starting out in autox i'd suggest doing the minimal amount of mods, work on the driver mod first. but the rear sway is a necessity, before i had one the car was totally unpredictable in turn entry. it made the car very predictable which is what you need to become a better driver. once you get comfortable with your setup and can induce over or understeer at will, start with the mods to move the balance of the setup to your liking. and running in a class that you should get creamed in only forces you to get better faster, if you're running against inferior cars what's the challenge.

Maven

iTrader: (1)

Theres a difference between honest competition and being completely outclassed. Youll never improve in a class where youre nowhere near the level of vehicle as your competition, because youll always be at the bottom, its demoralizing. No matter how excellent a wheelman you become if your hamstringed by your equiptment its no fun to race. the whole point is to have fun and improve. If your completely outclassed its very difficult to judge your performance other sthan solely on the data, which again gets demoralizing.

Sw4y1313

Did somebody say my name?!?!?

bluebaltjim

so you're saying you suffer from low self-esteem, jk man, i know it can bring you down but being a full second out on a regular basis definitely gives you a sense of how you're doing, clawing that second down to 8/10ths or even 1/2 of a second is progress. and the first couple of years at autox you're gonna suck anyway, and you should be running in a novice class.

Maven

iTrader: (1)

I dont know how they do things in Texas, but here in NJ there isnt a "novice" class. You show up, you go in the class your car meets the specs for, you race. beginner, novice, sportmsman, expert, elite, pro, none of those titles mean anything, if you qualify for stock you run stock, if youve got aftermarket larger wheels, or a CAI well then you run STS, if youre running a high flow cat, welcome to STX, if youve got an engine swap, it better be mean becuase now youre running in Street Mod.

I dont know how they do things in Texas, but here in NJ there isnt a "novice" class. You show up, you go in the class your car meets the specs for, you race. beginner, novice, sportmsman, expert, elite, pro, none of those titles mean anything, if you qualify for stock you run stock, if youve got aftermarket larger wheels, or a CAI well then you run STS, if youre running a high flow cat, welcome to STX, if youve got an engine swap, it better be mean becuase now youre running in Street Mod.

I guess this brings up another valid point. Talk to locals who race, and find out what class youl be in. For instance It may be worth the aggrevation to throw your stock airbox in for race weekends so that you can actually be running against cars youll have a chance with.

bluebaltjim

what region are you in? every scca region i've ever competed in has a novice class, in and out of texas. if the region you compete in doesn't have a novice class, i'd approach the board and find out why. it's not fair to be thrown to the wolves as a beginner, that's a large reason the membership in the scca is down. who wants to take the time to be competative when you're instantly competing against veterans of the sport.

mrsilent13

so if these eibach sway bars are not for sale....y when i do a part number search all these sites come up....showing that they have them for sale....the cheapest set i found was 291.85 plus 12.22 ground shipping or 34.90 for ups 3 day

TurboTechRacing

iTrader: (24)

Place an order for them, you will see they wont ship anything, because Eibach doesnt manufacture them yet....

Maven

iTrader: (1)

Yeah those bars are like the Holy Grail.

TurboTechRacing

iTrader: (24)

Eibach has stated "2 more months" since 2005 LOL

mrsilent13

eibach needs to get on the ball already

do they need a test car or what?

WeekendWarrior203

ok so I ordered the MRZ strut bar and the TTR rear sway bar. I autox'd today with only my eibach pro's. I did terrible. After my first run I looked at my front tires and I was running on the side walls on probably every turn. I have so much body roll.I'm due for a tire rotation so I'm going to be getting one before the next event which is in 2 weeks, which may help a little. I should have the the sway and strut bars on by then too HOPEFULLY. By next season I want to get a set of all-seasons that will give me the traction I need for a reasonable price. Any suggestions for a good set of tires? Also for anybody that's interested I'll keep you posted on my performance with the new mods at the next autox event.

bluebaltjim

if you're on the sidewalls you need to run higher air pressure, on street tires you need alot higher than normal

WeekendWarrior203

im running 40-42 psi tire pressure all around, i can't go much higher than that

montecarloman

Well then your looking at lower profile tires to help solve your problem.

WeekendWarrior203

yea, any suggestions on some good tires?

Maven

iTrader: (1)

On stock 15" wheels Ive seen guys running 205/50-15's they are a little shorter than stock and have a shorter sidewall. BFG G-force all seasons are good tires

Its tough to find an ultra hipo all season in these small sizes.

WeekendWarrior203

well I'm thinking about getting a new set of 18's too, so I'm assuming there would be a wider variety with a larger wheel? Again, any suggestions?

montecarloman

18's are notoriously heavy, stick to 17's or smaller. They'll be cheaper and lighter. The stock steels are 15x6 so pretty much everything available aftermarket will be wider. Search the forums, you'll find a bunch of stuff about aftermarket wheels

bluebaltjim

if you use the 15's look into falken azenis rt-615's, hankook ventus r-s2's, or the kumho ecsta mx's. if you plus size really look at the same tires to stay in a street tire class. the larger sizes of these tires tend to be stickier than the 15" ones are, but for street tire class this is what most people are using.


here's the falkens
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...%2FPerformance

the hankook's

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes....el=Ventus+R-S2

the kumho's

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes....model=Ecsta+MX