View Poll Results: Ballpark HP range
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01-02-2008, 12:38 AM
#51
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Wow, when did this thread come back from the grave? lol
Yeah turns out they couldn't tune it stock, so we just slapped the AEM FI/C piggyback on it and tuned it that way. With I/H/E voltage system and the tune it was right at 155 to the wheels. I'll see if I have the dyno saved on my computer but I doubt it.
Ended up selling the piggyback since it really didn't do much without a turbo or super.
Yeah turns out they couldn't tune it stock, so we just slapped the AEM FI/C piggyback on it and tuned it that way. With I/H/E voltage system and the tune it was right at 155 to the wheels. I'll see if I have the dyno saved on my computer but I doubt it.
Ended up selling the piggyback since it really didn't do much without a turbo or super.
01-04-2008, 12:32 PM
#53
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That Hyper voltage GT system is a very interesting voltage regulator rig, how well did it work for you?
I installed a ground wire kit on two cars and both benefitted, one being a 1989 Daytona and the other an 03 Sunfire. They both got a much better throttle response and idle from the ground kits.
Voltage regulators on the other hand worried me as you are hooking up the positive and negative to a small box and I just picture sparks flying everywhere along with the battery dying shortly after. I know that I am wrong, but it is the expectation I initially feel.
They also sell voltage regulators on E-bay for like $20-$40, and ground wire kits for around $25 shipped. I know the ground wire kits work, maybe another $20-$40 into a voltage regulator might be my next purchase if you let me know how the Hyper voltage GT system turned out.
I also feel the list of mods you have should give you over 160hp at the crank, not the wheels.
A Cobalt has 145-148hp to start at the crank depending on the year.
Unfortunately, most people just add the hp that said mods will gain onto that number to figure what their max output is.
The truth is, most companies seem to lie about the gains their product gives.
Then you must also realize that a mod will give you a gain that will affect the RPM band.
Sometimes it is a gain across the entire RPM band and sometimes at only certain RPMs. There are even some mods that you will lose in one area and gain in another, which is shifting the power from one area to another (the 2.4 intake mod is an example of that).
Some mods will add to max output and some will not.
Your car in the end with said mods will have a lot more response and up and go.
If you look at only the max output on the dyno, then you may not fully understand the gains you aquired. Your car will be a lot quicker than it was, but the max output is only 12-15 more horses than it was. The truth is, at any given point with the mods you listed, your engine response and output is much better, which means you will be beating a lot of oblivious ricers.
I installed a ground wire kit on two cars and both benefitted, one being a 1989 Daytona and the other an 03 Sunfire. They both got a much better throttle response and idle from the ground kits.
Voltage regulators on the other hand worried me as you are hooking up the positive and negative to a small box and I just picture sparks flying everywhere along with the battery dying shortly after. I know that I am wrong, but it is the expectation I initially feel.
They also sell voltage regulators on E-bay for like $20-$40, and ground wire kits for around $25 shipped. I know the ground wire kits work, maybe another $20-$40 into a voltage regulator might be my next purchase if you let me know how the Hyper voltage GT system turned out.
I also feel the list of mods you have should give you over 160hp at the crank, not the wheels.
A Cobalt has 145-148hp to start at the crank depending on the year.
Unfortunately, most people just add the hp that said mods will gain onto that number to figure what their max output is.
The truth is, most companies seem to lie about the gains their product gives.
Then you must also realize that a mod will give you a gain that will affect the RPM band.
Sometimes it is a gain across the entire RPM band and sometimes at only certain RPMs. There are even some mods that you will lose in one area and gain in another, which is shifting the power from one area to another (the 2.4 intake mod is an example of that).
Some mods will add to max output and some will not.
Your car in the end with said mods will have a lot more response and up and go.
If you look at only the max output on the dyno, then you may not fully understand the gains you aquired. Your car will be a lot quicker than it was, but the max output is only 12-15 more horses than it was. The truth is, at any given point with the mods you listed, your engine response and output is much better, which means you will be beating a lot of oblivious ricers.
, i have a lsj header, dp, catback, cai, tranny mounts, and a short shifter, i dyno'd in 127hp, 139trq
01-31-2008, 10:58 PM
#56
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That Hyper voltage GT system is a very interesting voltage regulator rig, how well did it work for you?
I installed a ground wire kit on two cars and both benefitted, one being a 1989 Daytona and the other an 03 Sunfire. They both got a much better throttle response and idle from the ground kits.
Voltage regulators on the other hand worried me as you are hooking up the positive and negative to a small box and I just picture sparks flying everywhere along with the battery dying shortly after. I know that I am wrong, but it is the expectation I initially feel.
They also sell voltage regulators on E-bay for like $20-$40, and ground wire kits for around $25 shipped. I know the ground wire kits work, maybe another $20-$40 into a voltage regulator might be my next purchase if you let me know how the Hyper voltage GT system turned out.
I also feel the list of mods you have should give you over 160hp at the crank, not the wheels.
A Cobalt has 145-148hp to start at the crank depending on the year.
Unfortunately, most people just add the hp that said mods will gain onto that number to figure what their max output is.
The truth is, most companies seem to lie about the gains their product gives.
Then you must also realize that a mod will give you a gain that will affect the RPM band.
Sometimes it is a gain across the entire RPM band and sometimes at only certain RPMs. There are even some mods that you will lose in one area and gain in another, which is shifting the power from one area to another (the 2.4 intake mod is an example of that).
Some mods will add to max output and some will not.
Your car in the end with said mods will have a lot more response and up and go.
If you look at only the max output on the dyno, then you may not fully understand the gains you aquired. Your car will be a lot quicker than it was, but the max output is only 12-15 more horses than it was. The truth is, at any given point with the mods you listed, your engine response and output is much better, which means you will be beating a lot of oblivious ricers.
I installed a ground wire kit on two cars and both benefitted, one being a 1989 Daytona and the other an 03 Sunfire. They both got a much better throttle response and idle from the ground kits.
Voltage regulators on the other hand worried me as you are hooking up the positive and negative to a small box and I just picture sparks flying everywhere along with the battery dying shortly after. I know that I am wrong, but it is the expectation I initially feel.
They also sell voltage regulators on E-bay for like $20-$40, and ground wire kits for around $25 shipped. I know the ground wire kits work, maybe another $20-$40 into a voltage regulator might be my next purchase if you let me know how the Hyper voltage GT system turned out.
I also feel the list of mods you have should give you over 160hp at the crank, not the wheels.
A Cobalt has 145-148hp to start at the crank depending on the year.
Unfortunately, most people just add the hp that said mods will gain onto that number to figure what their max output is.
The truth is, most companies seem to lie about the gains their product gives.
Then you must also realize that a mod will give you a gain that will affect the RPM band.
Sometimes it is a gain across the entire RPM band and sometimes at only certain RPMs. There are even some mods that you will lose in one area and gain in another, which is shifting the power from one area to another (the 2.4 intake mod is an example of that).
Some mods will add to max output and some will not.
Your car in the end with said mods will have a lot more response and up and go.
If you look at only the max output on the dyno, then you may not fully understand the gains you aquired. Your car will be a lot quicker than it was, but the max output is only 12-15 more horses than it was. The truth is, at any given point with the mods you listed, your engine response and output is much better, which means you will be beating a lot of oblivious ricers.
Yeah I have a life :^/
Last edited by CobaltFan06; 01-31-2008 at 10:58 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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