PenguinPIE

iTrader: (5)

got it!....im off to safeway to buy some straws now........hmm they make carbonfiber straws now? ...cool


then ill be eating EVOs daily ...

charged_sunfire

ive got 2 on my sunfire, that second one is why im where i am today in the 13's. haha jk, these things are junk

RedBaseBolt

Nitrous doesn't hurt you, it's the sulpher they add to the mix to make it smelly that hurts you.

sushidog

If you are looking for a nice "supercharger" type sound and a sweet 5% hp gain, I've got nice e-ram unit installed on my 2.4l.



Actually theres another e-ram on the end of my CAI for another small boost. The company guarantees a 9% hp gain when using 2 e-rams. I haven't had mine dynoed yet (waiting on a Vector tune to be released for my auto trans model), but you can really feel it kick in on the old butt dyno. It works kind of like the hilarious leaf blower mod, only at WOT. No BS, it really works.

PenguinPIE

iTrader: (5)

huh??!

sushidog

Ok, maybe a vacume cleaner like sound is more like it

CivicKiller98

e ram is simmilar to turbonator
garbage! garbage! garbage!

sushidog

Do you own one civic killer?

If not, what are you basing your opinion on?

I have one, and it works.

CivicKiller98

talk to roadrunner when he gets back, and ask him what i am basing my opinion on. he was dumb enough to buy one of those pieces of garbage at one point, put it on his cav with his AEM intake, got 4hp gain, took it off and 4hp turned into 6.

i dont doubt that you get some gain, but that doesnt mean that it is a direct result of a fan blowing air into the intake tubing. the engine will be sucking more air than that blowing fan can provide so it would be more of an obstruction than a gain.

another thing is risk...what are you going to do when a blade breaks off? theres nothing to stop it.

5% hp gain? you said in your post that you havent had it dyno'ed so is this the placebo effect? hey im sorry that everyone here says that something you paid money for is garbage, but facts are facts. the fan isnt a compressor, which is why it wont work like they claim.

if you believe in it, then fine im not going to hate you for it, its your car and if you like what a part did for its performance, all the best to you.

sushidog

Dear Killer,

I'm sorry to hear of Roadrunner's bad experience. Maybe he was running one of the older generation e-rams with the smaller motors and the plastic fans.
Did Roadrunner get his money back, because they do offer a money-back guarantee?

The new e-rams come with a 10 blade metal, ducted fan that's spun over 25,000 rpm by a 1hp electric motor (over 800 cfm. and 1lb boost) In the unlikely event that the electric motor should break and self destruct, (hey, anything mechanical could eventually break, right?) there is a fine-meshed metal screen to catch the pieces. So no, it won't lunch your engine.

I'll tell you what is garbage - the relay they sent with my units. The relay I received looked like it was rated 25-30 amps tops - and this is for a 57amp motor? I replaced both small relays (I have 2 e-rams installed) with a large remote starter relay. This made a huge difference in performance, as the stock relays were not allowing enough current flow to properly spin the motors. It's possible that Roadrunner was having a similar problem and not realizing it.

Another factor is placement of the e-ram. If it's not placed between the Throttle body and the MAF, the ECU wont give the engine any more fuel and you won't get any hp gains. As it is, my car feels as if it is running a little lean at WOT, (no MAP sensor and one e-ram is mounted in a bad location), so I'm hoping that the Vector tune will cure this. It could be the torque limiters in the ECU causing it to cut fuel too, in either case, the ECU re-flash should solve the problem. No extra fuel = no hp gain.

No, I'm not seeing a huge hp increase un-tuned - about the same as I noticed when I installed my corsa cat-back. True, it's less than I got than when I installed my injen CAI, but it is an increase on top of my Injen and Corsa combined. As with any F/I system, even one that only puts out 1.7lbs boost as this one does, set-up is everything if you expect to realize any gains.

As you say, to each his own. I'm not trying to convert you to my religion, I'm just giving an unbiased report of my experiences.

If I didn't notice any gains, I would have certainly sent mine back and got a refund. I'll post the end results when I eventually get it dynoed.

Open discussions about radical new ideas are good for everyone. By the way, I'm a 50 yrs old certified honda mechanic and I have lots of experience building both turbo and n/a engines. So I'm no noob, and I'm certainly don't have an axe to grind - either pro or con on the e-ram.

If it proves to show less that the 9% hp gain they guarantee, (after insuring it's running the correct A/F ratio), then I'll certainly post the results to help everyone avoid the grief of a similar mistake. After all, I've made plenty of mistakes in the past, and I'll certainly make more in the future - it's how we learn! Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

Remember if you're affraid to lose, don't race.

Roadrunner

oh god, where do i begin....
try sending it back, they will give you the 20 questions before even thinking about giving you a refund. plus think of how many people dont want to bother spending the shipping (yes it does come out of YOUR pocket) for them to take it back and usually try to find an excuse to replace it rather than refund your money.
no the problem i had was that it stalled my car a few times on the highway during "spirited driving"
how could you run 2 individual 57amp motors on a stock 105 amp alternator? i really dont believe that you are going to come back and tell me that you got a new alternator because i am sure you would have mentioned that. with that kind of load, your engine must be struggling to turn over, let alone run.
funniest thing, on the intake side, it is sealed, so the flow of air will be the same ANYWHERE in the intake, before or after the MAF sensor
sorry, i did dyno my old setup when it was on, after the problems on the highway. i lost horsepower, it was a waste of $60 to get it dyno'ed (the days before i could get it done for free). needless to say that i was a little pissed. i was pretty damn happy when i took it off and ran my intake/exhaust setup though
now im a little confused, see i have two family members who are mechanics (one is older than you) and they both told me to stay away from the turbonator from the beginning. so now i am wondering why an experienced mechanic is telling me something totally different.



sorry for the long rant, but i have made it my goal to prevent the people that sell these from making any money (and yes i finally got my money back). in theory, blowing air into the engine should work, but in this case it doesnt and its because there are so many variables.

and for those that want to laugh at me for buying one waaay back then, i also bought a $30 resistor chip with it.

DJNateGnau

Bwahahahahaha!!

FRIARPOP

new and improved

slowion2

Oh dear lord, people will buy anything if you make it look right.

I'm going to coat dog **** in silver paint and say it will give you 5% increase in power when you glue it to your battery. Even have the fake dyno sheets to prove it.

Roadrunner

LMAO

sushidog

Thanks for the reply Roadrunner.

As to your thoughts about the e-ram running off the 105 amp alternator, it doesn't run off the alternator, at all. The alternator only recharges the battery and does not power the e-rams directly. Your starter motor draws about the same current from your battery, as both e-rams, yet will start your car without having an alternator present.

This is why the e-ram will only work in short bursts - 30 seconds max, or it will drain your battery.

I don't know what your comment about the turbinator was all about. The turbinator has static fans who's sole purpose is to swirl the air in the intake, supposedly creating better atomization and dispersion of fuel in the cylinder. This concept may work in a specific carburated application, but it would have to be engineered for a specific engine for it to work. I can't see it having any effect at all in a fuel injected application - especially a direct port setup.

As far as the air flow being the same anywhere in the intake, the velocity will be roughly the same, assuming a tube of a constant diameter is used, but the pressure will vary. On a N/A engine, the intake velocity will primarily be determined by the position of the throttle body, however air pressure will vary throughout the intake. The best a n/a intake could provide is slightly less than atmospheric pressure in the intake manifold, (roughly 14.7 psi at sealevel). If you want to see how efficient your intake system is, just hook up a standard automotive vaccum guage to the intake manifold. The greater the vaccum at wot, the less efficient intake you have (everything else being constant).

Now consider forced induction - from a turbo, s/c, or even a leaf blower - it doesn't matter, as long as you are trying to force more air into the cylinder than the engine needs to run, the pressure in the intake manifold will rise. Our 2.4l engine will need about 300cfm at redline. The e-ram is trying to push 800cfm. The difference results in higher than atmospheric pressure. OK it's only 1.7 psi for both, but the resulting 11% increase in air density is what prodices the additional horsepower. Higher pressure = more air density, so you need more fuel, or your engine will run too lean and possibly die. I suspect that this is what caused your driveability problem.

It doesn't mean that the e-ram wasn't doing its job, it indicates that your computer was not sensing and compensating the additional air pressure to maintain an adequate f/a ratio to realize any gains.

I understand you are bitter because it didn't work out for you and you felt ripped off'ed But that doesn't mean that if the unit was set-up properly it would not have worked.

There are other people who make more powerful electric superchargers, like Thomas Knight at www.boosthead.com. Their base model is $1,695. It has an 8hp motor that delivers 4-5 lbs boost. Would you consider one of those? Are you against the concept of electricly driven superchargers, or is it just the e-ram? I'm sure you realize that you couldn't just bolt up one of those babies and expect your car to run right without extensive tuning mods.

Like I said in an earlier post, I have no interest in promoting or dispariging e-ram or any other company. I'm just sharing my experiences.

DJNateGnau

Eh, I still like the original better...

97CIVIC

DAM, DIDNT SEE IT CIMING

Roadrunner

see heres the thing, you take energy out of your battery, it needs to be restored from your alternator, thus the reason why gas is the only energy source we use. when your battery charges, it gets its energy from the alternator. when the alternator is sending a higher current to charge the battery, it robs the engine of more hp, and fuel economy takes a hit.

ok so when the motor is blowing air into the intake at WOT, lets say it is actually working.
when its not whats it doing? sitting there with the motor stopped. and the blades on the fan restricting the intake tract. and you have even more hp lost, and even worse fuel economy to the above.
whether or not it works, hey dyno that **** before you start claiming 5% gains, you claimed a dyno then you said you hadnt done it yet.

k i think you are a little confused here, turbonator is simmilar to your e-ram, infact, they are nearly exactly the same thing. what you are referring to is the TORNADO, what this post was originally about.

actually the reason was that it wasnt allowing enough air into the engine. ie. too much restriction, not enough air. lets just say it was rather obvious

tuning mods? like what? ebay resistor chips? that link leads you to a supercharger that is belt driven, off the alternator, not electrically. i am not against electric superchargers, there are some that are well designed. this is not the case.

ok thanks for making yourself clear, i think you need to try a little more honesty, i have a suspicion that you are a little more involved in the sale of these than you are claiming. its a little funny when known mechanics, atleast one experienced engineer, and atleast one engineering student can call this product garbage, not only in this thread, but in several others.