Ok so I'm ordering Wiseco pistons and eagle rods and will put them in when they come in. Likely next week depending on shipping. I'm dropping alot of money on this and it's got to be reliable. I'm not going to go to extravagant on the street but it will be going to the drags as well Next will be a cat back im going with 2.5 and don't want it to be Ricey more of a deep tone what brands should I look into?

 

Gmpp, Corsa, and Borla are all good but a bit pricey. Zzp is also good but idk what they are price wise.

 

are you going to remove the engine? if you do, i'd suggest zzp neutral balance shafts. also, get new rod bearings, main bearings if you remove the crank case. lots of assembly lube. make sure you check the oil gaps in the new rods and bearings.

 

I wasn't planning on an engine pull just for pistons and rods. Maybe down the road. My engine hoist is currently in use and he's wating on parts. Are they necessary? for now? this is my dd until gas drops. Not wanting to start driving my truck yet.

 

they're not necessary. well at the very least, get new rod bearings since you're replacing the rods. assembly lube the crap out of the new bearings,rods, and wristpins. just remember that you're going to have to crosshatch the cylinder walls and make sure none of that excess metal gets anywhere below. just remember, you're going to have a break in period. so you'll have to follow break in procedures

 

Also since you are building the motor, I assume you're going to be running a significant amount of boost...in that case you may want to look into ZZP valve springs.

Other things to consider replacing while the motor is a apart:
Timing chain tensioner
Timing chain
Cam gear bolts
Crank pulley bolt
Headgasket
ARP head studs

 

OP. it seems like you haven't done enough research and just want a turbo to jump on the 'turbo=efficiency and power' bandwagon. There ARE reasons, believe it or not that most of us choose to go supercharger over turbo, one of them being reliability.

My advice is to do actual research on the Ecotec engine, then come back to this. do other mods to your car first, preferably to the chassis. Just because the engine makes a lot of power doesn't mean the chassis is suited for it. Take care of that first, THEN worry about forced induction.

 

Once turbo this is going strictly a weekend drag car just for fun IM looking for turbo for more power

 

The only thing you'll have to do chassis wise, that I'm aware of, is swap motor and trans mounts. But those aren't that expensive in comparison when looking at building a forced induction motor. The car is a unibody car so the chassis is pretty structurally sound. Plus ive never heard of anyone twisting a frame on these cars due to too much horsepower.

 

if you're honestly asking questions about what you need to upgrade you honestly do not need to be modifying the car to that level. The supercharger and the turbocharger will likely make the same amount of power but it takes power to turn that blower and that causes it to transfer less hp to the tires. as for the large injectors... if people quit buying shitty RC Engineering injectors and bought InjectorDynamics 1000cc injectors they'd find that its quite easy to tune the car to run well...

the issue with nitrous is most people dont run any sort of progressive controller so you get a sudden spike in cylinder pressures... also most people tear stuff up with tunes... people say stock LS1 motors are only good to 550hp or so as well... i know of 3 locally that make over 700whp without issue... heck i know of an LS6 that was making 771whp with a P1-SC and nitrous...

 

First of all, we all ask questions when adding forced induction to our motors. Especially for the first time. So stop being an elitist douche bag. Second, unless you're planning on running 30+ psi of boost or 20 and E85 you don't need 1000cc injectors. There's such a thing as too large of injectors, just so you know. Third, you really need to learn what you're talking about before you make **** poor statements. A turbo will make more power then a blower at the same psi levels for a variety of reasons. If you don't know what those reasons are and why they are that way, you really have no reason to give advice.

Now, I don't care what the LSwhatever motors are running because that's a completely different power plant. The stresses on those motors are very different due to having an extra 4 cylinders over us. We are still plagued with the problem of having shitty cast rods that buckle under high horsepower. You're comparing apples to oranges with that one and it really has no bearing here.