fastfreddy7

http://www.maximumboost.net/product_...roducts_id=210

They ve got a complete kit, but I m wondering about the tuning? It says it comes with a vortech 12:1 FMU, anyone know the specs on this? I would be very very interested in this kit, if it would work. I miss having a turbo ever since I got rid of my 92 AWD Talon. Also, whats the comp. ratio on our engines?

CTCOBALTSSS

Yeah bro there are many turbo kits out for the 2.2s, it's the fuel management that raises the issues.

Halfcent

Maximum Boost has yet to prove that system to anybody. No one on this forum that I know of has tried that kit due to some bad reputations. It has been advertised since February, so if it worked, somebody would have said so by now. I believe if you actually try to order that kit, you will be told that it is not available yet.

To answer your other question, the stock L61 uses a 10:1 compression ratio.

fastfreddy7

Kool Kool, just wondering. Thanks for the answer.

BaltMod

For $3,000 and only 50+ hp, you may as well have just gotten the SS/SC. And that's just at the level of a stock SS/SC. I'd rather buy an SC motor and drop it in, then you could modify on the SC motor, and get more than 50+ on a 2.2. Let alone, the SC motor is already designed for boost.

blowncobalt

WHAT HE SAID!!^^^^^^^^

halfj99

once there is tuning avaliable....much more then 50hp will be atainable, im sorry but the 2.0sc isnt the answer to end all

fastfreddy7

exactly, I think there is way more power to be found with a turbo, but I dont even want to start that debate. I jsut love the feeling when the boost hits and the sound of a spooling turbo.

Pyros777

iTrader: (4)

I agree. Hopefully within a years time the turbo 2.2s will start stomping all over everything like the boosted cavs/sunfires (hypsy for one, and nearly all the michigan J's lol) have done.

BaltMod

I said nothing about a turbo/supercharger debate. The 2.0 S/C was designed for boost, the 2.2 is not. And to make the 2.2 gain the power your talking to make the turbo have more advantage, you're going to be spending a lot of $$$ for parts and labor. Even if you did the labor yourself, it's still a lot of time.

For $3,000, that just about could've paid the difference from an LT to an SS/SC. A little more, yes, but comparing apples to apples... suspension, wheels, body kit, seats, spoiler, tranny, and all the other difference's that the SS/SC has over an LT or LS, you save more money by just starting off with an SS/SC.

xCobalt05x

this is true but once you add in a boost controler you wont be running 4-5psi like the kit says anymore, i would be boosting it to like 17-20 psi. would really be nice if HRC would make a tuning salution soon

xCobalt05x

when i bought my LS it was the first LS to hit the show room floors in michigan back in 2005. i paid just under 16,000. GM eployee discount thanks to my dad, military discount, and the sales man gave me the first time buyer discount too. the sticker on my car was 18,7xx can remember exactly. but just under 16k was my final cost and at the time when i was looking at ordering an SS since they didnt have them on the lot yet it was 23,000 for an SS/SC. i dont see where that 3k would be filling the gap to 23,000. What do they cost now, isnt it like 21k now for an ss/sc

RYCobaltSS

some of us just dont have the credit needed nore the huge ass down payment required with a low to mid credit rating inorder to hop into an ss/sc. and that being said...but not refering to you inparticular but alot of us dont have mommy and daddy anymore...ive been without for 3 yrs now and even when i had them aound the best car i could do was a 92 mazda 626. some of us just have to work with what we have, not saying i would fork out 3000 for a 50hp kit but more like 500 for a 75shot zex nitrous system or something with a lil more bang for my buck.

CobaltBurst

i paid $20,000 for mine with G85.... and paid 16,000 for my LS that i traded in, so 4k more you get supercharger/built engine/bodykit... blah blah blah, you cant beat the deal you can talk until you go blue in the face, its just the better option at the moment. And yes you can change the boost to 15-20psi but bye bye engine unless you put in forged internals which will set you back at least another $1,000 so there is your $4,000 right there but hey you still look like a base (maybe you want this? not me) you dont have upgraded suspension (try to take turns fast.... =bad) smaller wheels (another $1200), hmmmm anything else?

CobaltBurst

if i still had my 2.2 i would def. be going the N20 route..... good call, its the only smart thing to do if you want major HP.

BaltMod

You obviously don't know what you're talking about... if a 2.2 could take 17-20psi of boost, you would see a ton more turbo kits for it, and a lot of them at the drag strip. A stock motor would never hold that much boost. It's not MADE for it! If it did, I'd be HIGHLY surprised!

I didn't say JUST the motor, re-read what I said. If you added everything to an LS what an SS/SC has stock... motor/wheels/suspension/seats/bodykit/etc. I bet you'd save more money to just buy out right an SS/SC.

If you don't have credit, or can't save for a downpayment BEFORE you but an LS or LT, how you going to get $3,000 for a turbo? Let alone rebuild the motor when speed racer up there dishes out 17-20psi to it? If NOS is your thing, you definitely get more bang for the buck with that. Just watch out for the boom.

hypsy

If a stock 2.2L can't hold 17PSI then how did I do it numerous times? I have been running 12-15PSI all year and FINALLY had motor issues...after a full year of 10PSI and then this years abuse. Just to put into perspective that time frame...up until June 17 I had made 89 runs down the 1320. That's the date the motor gave out. I know for a fact that I made over 150 passes last year, but unfortunately I didn't track every run last year like I did this year. THe 2.2L can hold A TON more power than y'all think.

CobaltBurst

Not many are as lucky as you, from what i remember when i was on j-body.org some lasted.... and some didnt...

BaltMod

So your telling me you have no time in R&D, and all you have to do is bolt on a $3,000 turbo kit, and turn the boost up to 17-20psi, and all is good? 12-15 is not 17-20. You contradicted yourself in 2 sentences, 17psi all the time, 12-15 all year? Which is it? And like you said, your motor gave out. Sooner or later, it is going to happen, usually sooner than later when running 20psi on a N/A car. Try that and see how long the motor lasts. And if it does, I will stand corrected.

hypsy

I never said I was running 17PSI all the time...I said NUMEROUS times. Meaning at the dragstrip. I did NONE of the R&D, HRC did it all and helped me tune it up. I know it will always go sooner or later, mine was definately LATER though.

BaltMod

Was the tune included in the price of the turbo?

hypsy

Nope. And I didn't have to pay for it either. Bill offered to help me out since I was local to him and he let me get my car up on his dyno for quite a long time and he tweaked on the car. Big part of the reason my car is so fast. I just hope he can help me tune the new setup with my HPT.

BaltMod

Must be nice... this is my point: he tunes your car for free, gets in dyno time for free, and this is a big part in why your car is so fast... not everyone here will have that luxury when Joe Shmow goes out and buys a turbo kit. I bet you're willing to agree with me that because of all that tuning involved is probably why your motor lasted that long, would I be wrong in saying that?

I'm not going to underestimate anyone on this forum who's been thinking about buying a turbo, but I don't care who you are, you HAVE to have plenty of tune/dyno time on anything you turbocharged to make it run efficiently, last long, and just not blow up! There's a lot more to it than just slapping a turbo on a stock NA motor, turning the boost up to 17-20 psi, and have a nice day. Most stock turboed cars couldn't handle that.

For a little comparison, I know we charge at the shop around $250 for a dyno tune on a bike from stock to bolt-on mods with a Power Comander. A full tune can take up to 2 hours... and that's not even with a turbo or NOS. That's even more time and $$, and that's just on a bike!

Kahless

you guys sure do rip em then.. the place in austin is 150 to hook up and 125 an hour for tuning no matter what you drive, except AWD cars, its only a 2wd dyno. my uncles friend has mustang dyno at his house and i think he does it for really cheap but he only helps out his friends. must be nice to have enough spare cash to put a dyno in your garage.

BaltMod

Spare dyno in my garage? I said at a shop. It's not even mine, lol. And you're saying $250 is ripping them for 2 hours of tuning at the least?