2.2L L61 Performance Tech 16 valve 145 hp EcoTec with 155 lb-ft of torque

wanna build my 2.2 up for more boost!

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Old 03-18-2011, 02:28 PM
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I don't wanna have to worry about the meth running out and blowing **** up and e85 is so much cheaper. i'm not worried about losing any mpg. I'm not sure if I should go with the lsj fuel pump or something aftermarket
Old 03-18-2011, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by conerboner
I don't wanna have to worry about the meth running out and blowing **** up and e85 is so much cheaper. i'm not worried about losing any mpg. I'm not sure if I should go with the lsj fuel pump or something aftermarket
check out the werks fuel pump..brags has it on his car..they are on gmsc a lot
Old 03-18-2011, 08:54 PM
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I'm still on the stock pump.
Old 03-18-2011, 10:30 PM
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If he's still on the stock pump then I'm not gonna bother changing it out.
Old 03-19-2011, 02:30 AM
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I got the timing chain back on tonight! hopefully I can get the rest put back together tomorrow. Also I looked at my wastegate and one of the little bolts is missing. Would I have to contact Tial to get a new one?
Old 03-19-2011, 02:47 AM
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the port plug or the tiny screws holding the cap in place?.
Old 03-19-2011, 02:59 AM
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the little itty bitty ones and also i lost one of the washers when i took it apart
Old 03-19-2011, 03:01 AM
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yeah, i'd call em. i need a tiny screw as well. my son bent one trying to get the cap back on. i love that kid but he gets lazy as **** sometimes and makes the worst mistakes.
Old 03-19-2011, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 06_ion2
I'm still on the stock pump.
You still have stock sleeves as well?
Old 03-19-2011, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Tundraboarder666
You still have stock sleeves as well?
yup I am, stock crank too. I really want a zzp block tho
Old 03-19-2011, 06:23 PM
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Well **** that makes me happy: )
Old 03-19-2011, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Tundraboarder666
Well **** that makes me happy: )
only problem I got is blowby. A night of frum rolling on the highway will eat a quart of oil
Old 03-20-2011, 02:15 AM
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hmm... that's a lot of oil man... what pistons do you have?
Old 03-20-2011, 04:38 AM
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woot it's alive! afr was in the 16s at idle but i broke the v band on the exhaust so that could be why it's reading off. I was so scared to start it and then it just started like it did before i took it apart and it felt great! All I have to do tomorrow is bleed the clutch and put the bumper and hood back on and test drive it
Old 03-20-2011, 04:58 AM
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Congrats man!
Old 03-20-2011, 05:09 AM
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Old 03-20-2011, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Tundraboarder666
hmm... that's a lot of oil man... what pistons do you have?
its just oil. I have wiesco 8.9 I think my installer did the rings wrong tho.
Old 03-20-2011, 02:54 PM
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Looking good, I believe werks did my first oil change at like 15 miles, conventional oil, might be something you want to do. I'm doing second one at 1000 and changing to Mobil 1
Old 03-20-2011, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 06_ion2
its just oil. I have wiesco 8.9 I think my installer did the rings wrong tho.
Gotcha, Yeah I have the same... It will be interesting to see if i do or not. I know I don't right now.
Old 03-21-2011, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Brags
Looking good, I believe werks did my first oil change at like 15 miles, conventional oil, might be something you want to do. I'm doing second one at 1000 and changing to Mobil 1
Thanks for the info. I was gonna do like 500 miles and then change it again. What grade oil conventional oil did Werks put in there? The guy that balanced my crank said I should use some 10W40. This thing just wants to be in boost all the time now!
Old 03-21-2011, 11:06 PM
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This is how I do oil changes on fresh motors. Intial start I always use conventional oil over synthetic its cheaper. I start it let it run for 30 minutes change the oil. 15 miles change, 50 miles change 100 change, 500 change, 1000 change, 3000 change. It hasn't failed yet.
Old 03-22-2011, 12:55 AM
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Seems a little redundant no? But I guess it wont ever fail.
Gotta make sure the rings sit properly too if you're putting in new pistons which I would never let it sit and run for 30 mins.
I changed my non detergent oil at 500 miles. Then went back to synthetic.
Old 03-22-2011, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by joshc.
This is how I do oil changes on fresh motors. Intial start I always use conventional oil over synthetic its cheaper. I start it let it run for 30 minutes change the oil. 15 miles change, 50 miles change 100 change, 500 change, 1000 change, 3000 change. It hasn't failed yet.
you only need to do it once lol....run a break in oil such as brad penn or royal purple break in oil. New technology is nothing like old ****...A motor seats the rings within the first 30 minutes of operation time, but we always run a car UNDER LOAD for 2-3 hours. Old engines and rings took days and days to seat correctly that is why everyone thinks the same way today. Also when u break it in put a strong small magnet in the crankcase to catch any small metal shavings. Im not bashing on you but thats a LOT of money wasted in oil when there is no need for it and i wouldnt wanna see you waste money. Clutch is wat takes longer to break in.

My uncle is an engine builder, ive built 3 motors personally including the 2.2 in my cobalt, and i know 4 guys with machine shops and every motor they build is broken in the same amount of time. Last one was a 540 bbc that will be dynoed in the car this week and should be over the 1800+ hp amount easily.

Last edited by kxrida2000; 03-22-2011 at 09:16 AM.
Old 03-22-2011, 10:34 AM
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I'm running 10w40 right now and i was going to do the first oil change at like 300. should i run 10w40 again or can i switch to synthetic that early? sucks we're supposed to get 4-8 inches of snow today
Old 03-22-2011, 12:19 PM
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i'd just use 5w30 dino oil for another 500 or so.

i've been using 5w30 conventional for the first 800 miles so far. changed the oil at 400 and it looked good. gonna switch back to synthetic at 1000 miles.


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