2.2L L61 Performance Tech 16 valve 145 hp EcoTec with 155 lb-ft of torque

wanna build my 2.2 up for more boost!

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Old 08-13-2011, 01:42 AM
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possibly Im not too sure on that
Old 08-13-2011, 10:59 AM
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If the pump is getting too hot it would be that its getting over worked, from the voltage supply not being adaquate, the rewire could help by giving a little more overhead on the voltage so the pump doesn't need to work as hard to keep up with the limited voltage. Have you tried looking at the fuel pressure as the cars running? Get a test gauge, run the car, If you are having supply issues you should know right away by the output on the gauge. Hopefully that bit of troubleshooting can lead you down the right road.
Old 08-13-2011, 02:11 PM
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I was gonna rent a fuel pressure gauge from oreillys but they didn't have any to rent and i was broke haha but i will probably go buy one today
Old 08-13-2011, 06:29 PM
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I mean thats my best guess as to where to start. If you start loosing pressure you know somethings going on pump wise.
Old 08-14-2011, 03:01 PM
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got a fuel pressure tester today and my pressure is at 42 psi at idle. That's what it should be with the boost reference fuel pressure system so I don't think fuel is the problem anymore. Where do I go from here?
Old 08-14-2011, 03:17 PM
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Faulty ignition switch? Sounds like you covered Power, Fuel, Spark.... what else would there be. If it sputtered I would say vacuum leak, but you stated it just turns off.
Old 08-14-2011, 03:20 PM
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maybe. I tried driving it with just the key on the car so there was no weight on the ignition but it still stalled on me. I haven't checked spark yet tho how do i check coil packs without replacing them? I have no misfire codes or anything like that. and yes it just shuts off the same way it would if someone turned it off with the key
Old 08-14-2011, 03:31 PM
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You're gonna need two people to check spark. Have to test one at a time make sure you turn off fuel. And have someone crank it while the other person has the Coil out testing it with a conductor of some sort. Obviously make sure they're not going to get shocked at all. And have a towel or rubber between the conductor and them. You should see a blue spark. If its anything like orange then I'd replace it. There are some fail safes just fyi too
Old 08-14-2011, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by conerboner
maybe. I tried driving it with just the key on the car so there was no weight on the ignition but it still stalled on me. I haven't checked spark yet tho how do i check coil packs without replacing them? I have no misfire codes or anything like that. and yes it just shuts off the same way it would if someone turned it off with the key
Did you test the fuel pressure till you had an issue or just at idle. I suggest doing it till you have the issue you are descibing. So you can see a change if there is one.
Old 08-14-2011, 05:52 PM
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Oh and coner i have extra good coil packs if you want to test them out. i can ship them to you for you to test with.
Old 08-14-2011, 06:53 PM
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It did stall with the pressure gauge hooked up. The pressure jumped up to 50 and then went down to zero the same way it does when you first turn the key on to prime the pump
Old 08-14-2011, 07:07 PM
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So if you leaving the key on you lose pressure?it should pop to ~50 psi and stay there unless you re leave the pressure from the schrader valve or run the car with the pump fuse out.If your losing pressure with the engine not running,then the check valve in the assembly is defective.Not too sure if that would cause the problem those as the pump should still hold pressure while running.Very confusing.Maybe try loading the stock tune and see if it does the same(dont drive obviously) and yes the car will run with the stock tune(mine did with stock tune,SC stuff and 60's)Just made sure it still ran after putting the eaton stuff on lol.it'll miss a bit but itll lean itself out and idle
Old 08-14-2011, 07:17 PM
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Is the check valve the stock ball and spring regulator? cuz if so I have it removed and i'm running the brfps on option 2. stock fuel pressure regulator is set at like 60 psi iirc

Last edited by conerboner; 08-14-2011 at 08:27 PM.
Old 08-19-2011, 11:47 PM
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Anybody know if it should hold 50 psi when I turn the key on with the brfps set up to run off vacuum and the stock regulator removed?
Old 08-20-2011, 12:11 AM
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When I first read that... i was thinking boost... I think it's supposed to be 45 though...
Old 08-20-2011, 07:47 AM
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Well regardless of what it should be it should stay pressurized shouldn't it? So i probably have a bad injector(s), a bad fpr or a bad check valve on the fuel pump
Old 08-20-2011, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by conerboner
Well regardless of what it should be it should stay pressurized shouldn't it? So i probably have a bad injector(s), a bad fpr or a bad check valve on the fuel pump
It's most likely the valve. Not the first time I've heard them going on these cars.
Old 08-21-2011, 01:26 AM
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what is the check valve in the fuel pump assembly lol?
http://www.zzperformance.com/products_img/1015_4.jpg
In this picture it shows what you are supposed to remove to get rid of the stock regulator. then it says put the fuel diverter back in so is the check valve the fuel diverter? I'm thinking if I can figure out why it isn't holding pressure I can drive my car again
Old 08-21-2011, 01:34 AM
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2007 Chevy Ss Turbocharger Kit Install Removing Schrader Valve Photo 9
I wish I would have seen this it looks like a good system.
Old 08-21-2011, 09:29 AM
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It sounds fuel related. somethings going on back there in that canister or with the brfps thing. The check valve prevents fuel from backflowing into the pump and into the tank. So it should hold pressure when the cars off. I wish someone with more fuel systems knowledge would chime in here. Have you conversed with zzp about your issues? I can feel you frustration, ive been in the same boat.

Last edited by 07cobaltguy; 08-21-2011 at 09:36 AM.
Old 08-21-2011, 11:22 AM
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i made a thread in their supporting vendors section. im gonna take the vacuum source off the fuel pressure regulator and see if fuel comes out cuz that means bad fpr.
Old 08-21-2011, 12:04 PM
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thats deff a possibility. Try it see what happens.
Old 08-21-2011, 03:01 PM
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Wish I had more information about the fueling. :/
Old 08-21-2011, 07:35 PM
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ugh i knew it was a stupid wire! I had a friend come over and look at it he has an ss/tc and we messed with it for a little bit and i started it and we jiggled wires around until we found out what was making it stall. it ended up being in the fuse box I didn't tighten it down enough when I did the motor build. It's funny it took this long to have problems but at least I found it! I no longer have any check engine lights and can now roast the tires all the way through third gear lol. I need to adjust my coilovers a little higher tho my right front tire ate the freakin fender liner haha. Still don't know if my fuel is supposed to go to zero with the key on but it seems to be running fine
Old 08-21-2011, 07:48 PM
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man i'm glad you found it . i been following you post. good deal you can rock and roll now


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