2.2L L61 Performance Tech 16 valve 145 hp EcoTec with 155 lb-ft of torque

wanna build my 2.2 up for more boost!

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Old 02-24-2011, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by stenguyen1
I'm guessing no one really seen my build thread. The walbro is a universal pump but the zzp and ottp fuel pump rewire is suppose to help when your boosting more than 15psi.
The only time you would need a larger fuel pump is if you're in danger of not being able to supply enough fuel in the first place or of course if its defective. Its not at all pressure oriented.

Also how are you tuning your setup?
Old 02-25-2011, 01:10 AM
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If that question is for me I am tuned by Vince. I got the motor out today. I took my time on it because I want to remember how it goes back together lol. Here are a few pics I snapped along the way. Most of them are the finished product.








Old 02-25-2011, 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by conerboner
If that question is for me I am tuned by Vince. I got the motor out today. I took my time on it because I want to remember how it goes back together lol. Here are a few pics I snapped along the way. Most of them are the finished product.








is that you. if so, nice flow
Old 02-25-2011, 01:20 AM
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Yep. My car has 1 man power and 2 torque!
Old 02-25-2011, 01:44 AM
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Nice, my car is in a similar state right now. bottom end is finished
Old 02-25-2011, 01:48 AM
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Come to Hawaii and do mine please...
Old 02-25-2011, 02:01 AM
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Ill let you guys know when the fuel pump runs out of juice. I'm getting 80's and the tranny is being built this week so I can push 25 PSI.
Old 02-25-2011, 07:51 AM
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ok i have 80s as well just need a harness. i plan on running E85 tho so i don't think my stock fuel pump will hold
Glowbalt just pay for a one way ticket and i'd do it if i could get work off lol
Old 03-01-2011, 09:53 PM
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I need some help! What size and grit flex hone do I need? I'm thinking 89 mm 240 grit.
Old 03-03-2011, 09:25 PM
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I went to the dealer today and got my flywheel bolts and the girdle bolts. I have the head gasket and valve cover gasket kit but what other gaskets and/or seals do I need to get?
Old 03-03-2011, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by conerboner
I went to the dealer today and got my flywheel bolts and the girdle bolts. I have the head gasket and valve cover gasket kit but what other gaskets and/or seals do I need to get?
I'm in the same boat as you trying to determine what gaskets to get.
Rod bearing, crank bearings, head gasket, valve cover gasket, rear main seal, front seal, timing cover seal,
Old 03-03-2011, 09:46 PM
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the gaskets should all come in a kit. got mine through my cousins shop and his supplier carries the whole gasket set as a kit i would hope you guys can find the same.
Old 03-03-2011, 09:49 PM
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All the gaskets that I mentioned?
Old 03-03-2011, 09:54 PM
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yes, if you want the supplier he uses shoot me a pm don't feel like having any ***** bust my *****.
Old 03-03-2011, 10:03 PM
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coner how hard do you think this install would be without taking out the motor?
Old 03-03-2011, 10:05 PM
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motor needs to come out, the bottom end needs honed and crank knife endged if u do it correctly
Old 03-03-2011, 10:11 PM
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the crank will also need to be machined/lightened to accecpt the difference in piston & rod weight. if you don't do that the crank may get thrown out of balance. better safe then sorry.
Old 03-04-2011, 01:23 PM
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Does the timing cover have to come off to get the crank out? and I found all the gaskets on ebay but then i would have two head gaskets and two valve cover gasket kits... I plan on bringing my head and crank to a maching shop so they can put the valve springs in and balance the crank. What else should I bring to them? should I have them machine hone my cylinders or will the flex hone I bought be good enough?
Old 03-04-2011, 01:32 PM
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to answer the crank question i would say yes. we stripped everything down and hot tanked all the components for a clean rebuild so the timing cover was one of the first parts off the engine before we pulled the cradle off. i'd highly reccomend the process as it ensures better fitment of your parts during reassembly. this was all free for me so i couldn't qoute prices on the hot tanking. if you get a machine shop to hone the cylinders for you, you will be more likely to get the cylinders honed to spec to match those pistosn you're throwing in. we pulled quite a few measurements on the cylinders and crank both before and after the cleaning and machining.

check my build thread for pics of the engine tear down.
Old 03-04-2011, 02:48 PM
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I've seen your build thread many times lol I'm going to be tearing into mine tomorrow morning!!!
Old 03-04-2011, 11:30 PM
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If your getting the crank balanced take them the rods and pistons, the harmonic balancer, the crank, your clutch and flywheel assembly. that will give the best balance. I also wouldn't knife edge the crank it is not needed for balancing only if your trying to get every little horsepower out and you might not even see it to the wheels. The idea is it will help reduce rotational drag when passing through the oil, the downside is our cranks are cast and too much material taken off could compromise them down the road. I've heard of the stock crank getting hairline fractures or cracks under high boost/high horsepower situtaions. this is the 500hp range though and were more drag cars.
Old 03-05-2011, 03:30 PM
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A few pics of progress






Old 03-06-2011, 03:33 PM
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Nice! I got mine taken apart yesterday now I just need to get my flywheel resurfaced, my crank balanced, and the valve springs put in and then reassemble this thing. The only thing i'm worried about is the timing but i'll get through it! My bearings all looked brand new and this motor has 60,000 miles with 10,000 miles being boosted. only took 3 pictues so here they are


Old 03-06-2011, 03:38 PM
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should add a 2.4 IM..I wouldn't trust those plastic POS's
Old 03-06-2011, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Glowbalt
should add a 2.4 IM..I wouldn't trust those plastic POS's
you do realize the 2.4 IM is plastic as well right?

anyways, im just coming it to check up on the progress of the build. looks like its coming along, keep the good work


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