James Rayth

Wow, lots and lots of good replies. Unfortunately it was an even split, so let me clarify a few things and see if it helps make a better assessment.

First of all, in my first post I gave the example of dumping 5k into the car and wondering if it would yeild signifigant value. I didn't mean monetary as, like tru2nrtt777 said, just about all modifications will drop the resale value of the car. As for the 5k amount, it was just a figure that I pulled out of air as an example.

To give a bit more background on how I ended up with a 2.2L Cobalt, about 2 years ago I ended up working and living out of Las Vegas. **** got expensive, I had lots of bills from when I was a stupid kid and thought credit cards wouldn't catch up with me, and was upside down on my SRT4. I retained a lawyer for bankruptsy, but then after retaining the lawyer and working to file for the next couple months I started receiving settlement offers. So, I never filed but taking the settlements after a couple months of non-payment following a year or so of late payments ended up dropping my credit score to... very bad.

I don't have any debt anymore and make enough money to pay for a house and two cars, but without credit it just doesn't happen. I have a company car that I drive with no insurance, gas, or car payment, but if I ever head out for a vacation or want to have a "night on the town", a company SUV just won't cut it (Its a Dodge Nitro, so its nice, but just doesn't feel right to me as a leisure car).

So a while ago I headed to the dearlership to see if any lender out there would take a chance on a car loan, suprisingly there was. Since I make a good amount of money they took a chance with an expected creditcard-eske interest rate. My car selections were limited, but I ended up with a 07 balt with low miles and the dealer was very nice and included a comprehensive insurance to 75,000 miles (everything except wear parts covered). So that's where I stand. Trading up to a stick, SS, etc isn't really an option; sadly not because of money but because of credit. Bastards.

Which leads me back to the original question with hopefully a new light. I am able to easily pay for the car with lots of money left over to play with. The big brakes, suspension, HID's, and tires are all going to be done regardless.

I hope that refines the scenario better, so let me rephrase the question. Given the current "stuck with the Cobalt" situation (I'm totally happy with it, that isn't a complaint), and knowing it would decrease the resale value (which I'm not concerned with), I am more interested if adding a few mods here and there while still keeping the drivability of the car (not diving into the hardcore tuning) would result in a better, faster, more responsive ride without ending up looking like a car that was taken out of a high-school parking lot. That is exactly what I don't want to appear as; a Paul Walker wannabe who thinks an exhaust and intake makes any car the king of the road.

I suppose it all comes down to responsiveness and driveability. I share the same view as donjuaniii, it is usually pointless to mod out anything but the top of the model line. In this case, the top of the model line wasn't accessable and isn't an option; so the million dollar question: Keeping in mind the car is an auto but will have tires, brakes, and suspension upgraded, would putting more money in the car yield improved responsiveness without losing drivability or appearing to be a (forgive the usage of the word) "ricer"?

If it is possible, what are we talking about and what kind of performance can be expected?

Again, thank you all for the suggestions so far, I hope this massive post will get some more focused answers.

Helltime

I see, i am kinda "stuck" with what i have too. Not because of money but because of my age and the fact my dad says "No more cars, we dont have the room".
I would suggest going Full Exhaust and CAI, i noticed a nice improvement on top end power (before it didnt like the higher RPMs now it "pulls" all the way til redline). I'm not sure what kind of things to do to your auto though. I have bad luck with autos, they hate my heavy foot
Do wheels/tires, lowering springs, tint, CAI, Full exhaust, and a sound system and what ever else you were already going to do then call it good.

IonNinja

if i were you and wanted to mod it:

Garrett turbo kit
B&M Shift Plus
Tranny cooler
AEM FIC
Eibach Sportlines
17" wheels

done...you should be able to get all that stuff for roughly 5K and be somewhere around a stock SRT-4 (or maybe not being auto)...whether thats fast enough or worth it to you is your call.

I have roughly 7K into my car (motor + misc mods included) and its still slow IMO...all depends on what you spend your money on though. If I put that 7K into performance only I'm sure I could have a car pushing 300+whp...

elecblue06

iTrader: (1)

quoted for truth.. if you want to have it decently quick thats what i'd do.. that'll run you about the 5 K you said

then depending on what else you want ..

maybe the rksport lip kit (no it's not F&F at all it's just a little flourish) better brakes custom paint and some custom interior work..

some quality speakers and a 10" sub (maybe even the stock ssc/sc system would suite your audio needs)

or for another way maybe some nitrous, rims, and such could be a better route..

James Rayth

Again, thanks for the replies.

I'm trying to make this look more classy then a "bump", but in truth I'm wondering if anybody else can pitch some advice to me. The more advice I get the easier it is to make a consensus based on multiple people giving the same or similar advice, or have a good broad understanding of options available to me.

Also, I wanted to again say that the $5000 was just a figure I pulled out of nowhere. If only spending 200, 1000, 3000... etc would get me to a pretty "decent" level (meaning a responsive car capable with holding its own compared the average tuner/performance car) then sweet. If 6k, 8k, etc would end up meeting some kind of a sweet spot where the amount of upgrades put into the car plus the original purchase price (~13k) would roughly equal (give or take, say, 3k) the average performance of a car of that price; then let me know along with what a recommended upgrade path would be. If neither applies and you feel it is just better left as a commuter car as no amount of money put in would be comparable at any point, and the only upgrades worth putting in are solely to increase handling, safety, and responsiveness, let me know.

Basically I'm just digging for more opinions and upgrade paths if they fit. Load me up with those thoughts!

chevyLSchik

You can get pretty fast with an auto with the B&M but i doubt you'll ever get to the SC class with it. My car -also 2.2 auto- will mainly be an all show-no go car but im adding little things to at least keep up with everyone. CAI, exhaust and suspension are also good things to invest in with it. i didnt read all the posts mainly cuz they are all too long but if im repeating anything-sorry. lol. since we cant get what the other guys can we cant upgrade as fast as most of us would like. if you want a car that can compete, i'd trade it in for a 2.4 or 2.0. our 2.2s can only do so much right now. you can at least add a turbo to those guys....

jimbos'ss

iTrader: (2)

i'm gonna have to go with ionninja on this one that is a sweet setup for a 2.2, on the other hand you can pick up the supercharger kit used for about $1600-2000 depending on the level of completeness.

James Rayth

I have been reading on the suggested parts, doesn't the AEM F/IC not work on the 2.2 because of the SAI?

I think I found my own answer. With the Garrett turbo kit the manifold would be replaced so that wouldn't be an issue, right?

Which Garrett turbo kit?

an0malous

with 5 grand to spend, you are better off trading in for a car that will make the same amount of power as that heavily modded 2.2, right from the factory.

then you will have a car built to handle the power, with the correct suspension, tires, and brakes to handle it.


Ill likely get flamed for this, but its my opinion.

James Rayth

Nope I don't flame, and I already appreciate your input on the HID questions I asked. =)

To save you having to read my novel's I tend to post, trading up isn't an option, unfortunately. I have the income to afford a much much better car, but I don't have the credit. This is basically my credit rebuild car.

The 5k was just a figure, could be more, could be less. I'm mostly wondering if I throw some recommended upgrades will I be able to make the car more responsive, a little peppy, but not riced out and not shorten the lifespan to a year.

So far its been pretty good feedback but I think my massive posts throw people off.

I am already planning on dong the suspension, tires, brakes, and visual stuff like the projectors. The rest is what is in question. The last 5 or so posts are pretty much the right direction with good advice, just looking for more people to chime in.

boostedss26

Turbo

James Rayth

Care to elaborate? Somebody suggested a Garrett kit and about 4 posts up I asked if anybody can clarify on which turbo kit.

Okay I came up with another question.

The description of the turbo kits from Garrett's site has the 4 trims. The Alpha kit says "Garrett® Turbo Alpha Kit (P/N 766621-1):2005-2006 Manual Transmission Only", is that saying that for the 2005-2006 years the Alpha kit will only work on a manual trans (meaning 2007 could be auto or man), or is it saying the Alpha kit can only be installed on a 2005-2006 manual trans?

If it can only be installed on a manual trans, the trim a bit less then it is the GT Tuner Kit. Only thing it doesn't have that the Alpha kit does is the larger fuel injectors, boost gauge, and ecu. It doesn't say anything about manual only, so does the GT Tuner kit work with an automatic trans?

And the last question I came up recently, the turbo kit changes the headers and a downpipe for the turbo. I was thinking of picking up the Vibrant exhaust that's on sale from TurboTech Racing and just going catback. Would the factory cat still be able to hook up to an aftermarket catback exhaust after installing a turbo kit or will that mess with placements?

Cobalt4Life

the tune on the alpha kit will not work on your car, its only for manual..

so far the only tuning for autos is the greddy emanage ultimate and some standalone 700 dollar tranny tuner..

i understand where your coming from with the credit thing as i couldnt trade mine in for a ss if i wanted to, nor do i want to..

everyone here that answered this thread had valid points, but like you said, you have different reasoning..

if you wanted to go turbo, give hahn a call, he can piece parts from the alpha kit without tuning to the gt tuner kit for you like he is for me..

Heres the list of what i am getting for the turbo to run if your interested

Hahn Turbo kit (2.2)
ZZP 3inch Stainless Downpipe/Magnflow Highflow Cat
Hahn 3inch Catback
TurboTechRacing Engine/Tanny mounts :polyurethane:

Autometer Cobalt series gauges
Transmission Temperature Gauge
Boost Gauge
Oil Pressure Gauge
Wideband Gauge
Autometer 3 Gauge pillar pod

Cobalt-Addiction Steering column pod
B&M Transmission Cooler
Fuel Management System
----------------------------------------------

I have an auto as well so we're in the same boat.. At least with the turbo kit you can add more to it down the road.. Add a boost controller and forge your motor and up the boost.. our tranny can take over 300ft lbs.

I have quite a bit of threads on the tuning for our cars and the what ifs and what not. I hope i am of help, and pm me if you have any questions