What I need to do to turbo.
06-12-2006, 07:05 PM
#28
I'm old school
Dude, that's a V8 turbo header. You kook. BTW Brian, I'm gonna send you a PM a little later tonight. Don't worry, it's funny.
Anyway, back on topic.
My trans was built by IPT. I got the converter, a high output pump, hardened steel internals, Raybestos "blue plate special" clutch packs, and an LSD.
I will be using the GReddy Profec boost controller. It has an optional wireless control switch that you can mount to the steering wheel to let you switch between boost settings. For me, program one will be my daily driver, 100% emmisions legal setting, and program two will be full boost, which might not be completely emmisions legal, but still street legal. With FWD turbos, it is important to be able to "ramp up" the boost amount in first gear. If you go full boost, you just spin your tires. The Profec can do that.
If you are going with your 300 HP goal, you could stay with stock compression ratios of 10:1. Anything more and I would switch to the lower ratio. I am using Wiseco 8.9:1 pistons, currently normally aspirated. So yes, I have a lower horsepower engine right now. But it runs perfectly fine, with no CEL. Plus it will be all broken-in under low power conditions before I boost it.
I dont know about any FI prepped Ecotec block. If you are talking about the GMPP race block, it is much more then you need. It is streetable, but a stock block is good to over 500 HP.
Anyway, back on topic.
My trans was built by IPT. I got the converter, a high output pump, hardened steel internals, Raybestos "blue plate special" clutch packs, and an LSD.
I will be using the GReddy Profec boost controller. It has an optional wireless control switch that you can mount to the steering wheel to let you switch between boost settings. For me, program one will be my daily driver, 100% emmisions legal setting, and program two will be full boost, which might not be completely emmisions legal, but still street legal. With FWD turbos, it is important to be able to "ramp up" the boost amount in first gear. If you go full boost, you just spin your tires. The Profec can do that.
If you are going with your 300 HP goal, you could stay with stock compression ratios of 10:1. Anything more and I would switch to the lower ratio. I am using Wiseco 8.9:1 pistons, currently normally aspirated. So yes, I have a lower horsepower engine right now. But it runs perfectly fine, with no CEL. Plus it will be all broken-in under low power conditions before I boost it.
I dont know about any FI prepped Ecotec block. If you are talking about the GMPP race block, it is much more then you need. It is streetable, but a stock block is good to over 500 HP.
06-12-2006, 07:11 PM
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: 04-26-06
Location: Chicago,IL
Posts: 573
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by celicacobalt
the turbo timer is a waste of money at those psi. i would also forget about the nitrous as well but the intecooler n20 would be fine. cam and cam gears arnt nessecary either. IPT transmissions makes parts for the auto tranny so talk to them. if you wanna get the power down you will need nice sticky tires and lowering springs and possibly motor mounts and strut bar.
06-13-2006, 12:57 AM
#31
Senior Member
Originally Posted by SS33
Thank you, that's what I was saying.
And 2.5" exhaust should be sufficient. Once again some will argue that you must go full 3", but unless you intend to run north of 20 psi than the 2.5" exhaust will not really be too much of an impedence.
Freer flowing exhaust is almost always a good thing for turbo apps, but you hafta look at bang for the buck. And like I said for a moderate boost (~10-15 psi) you will not see a huge difference between 2.5 and a full 3" exhaust.
Not to mention the additional money and headaches involved in routing a full 3" system
You should be more concerned with the max size of charge tubes you can route. 2 1/4" may be the best you can do without crazy long runs of pipe
And 2.5" exhaust should be sufficient. Once again some will argue that you must go full 3", but unless you intend to run north of 20 psi than the 2.5" exhaust will not really be too much of an impedence.
Freer flowing exhaust is almost always a good thing for turbo apps, but you hafta look at bang for the buck. And like I said for a moderate boost (~10-15 psi) you will not see a huge difference between 2.5 and a full 3" exhaust.
Not to mention the additional money and headaches involved in routing a full 3" system
You should be more concerned with the max size of charge tubes you can route. 2 1/4" may be the best you can do without crazy long runs of pipe
As far as downpipe size, same as above. Alot of people try to fit a 3" downpipe but if you can't fit one, than you can't fit one. Also, the size of downpipe flange (diameter of the outlet) also depends your downpipe size.
The best charge pipe size...that's really up to the person as well. Once again, lets scratch the word "best" because it really comes down to what the person is expecting out of their setup. A 2 1/4" charge pipe will cause a faster response power wise because of a faster intake velocity due to smaller piping. 2 1/2" is what most people get. Put it this way, the bigger the charge pipe, the more compressed air can flow at once to your throttle body. If you have a well matched turbo to motor combination, than 2 1/2" will be fine and react just fine.
06-13-2006, 01:00 AM
#32
Senior Member
Originally Posted by kyyankee
I want to keep it street legal, I wanted to go with the nitrous to keep the boost down when I'm daily driving the car and what not then throw the switch for another 50 horses or if I could controll the boost a bit better and get the same effect. Wheels are after market right now I have 17x7 with 205-40/17 Khumo ecsta asts.
06-13-2006, 01:07 AM
#33
Senior Member
Originally Posted by SS33
Good sites for info aside from here include, j-body.org (check the boost section under forums) and ecotecforum.com (NJHK's site)
here's a link to a really good write up by NJHK
here's a link to a really good write up by NJHK
Actually, it's not my forum but I am an Admin there.
Thanks for the compliment.
06-13-2006, 10:39 AM
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: 03-26-06
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,271
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by NJHK
lol
Actually, it's not my forum but I am an Admin there.
Thanks for the compliment.
Actually, it's not my forum but I am an Admin there.
Thanks for the compliment.
Cool beans either way man. If I ever free up some time I'll hafta get over there a little more.
As it is I spend too much time on here and the .org though
It's easy to compliment good people though. I remember you as always being helpful to people on the .org and would assume that trend has continued over at ecotecforums as well.
06-13-2006, 11:35 AM
#35
Senior Member
Join Date: 05-26-05
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 6,375
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by CARLYLE
are you stoned? a turbo timer is to let the turbo cool down it doesn't matter if you are running 4 pounds you need a timer to let it cool off or kiss your bearings goodbye
06-13-2006, 12:22 PM
#36
Senior Member
Originally Posted by celicacobalt
talk to bill at hahn racecraft and he can better explain why this in unnecesary but name calling is really not needed here. turbos are very efficient now adays and in newer cars turbo timers tend to be a nuisance with all the other electrical parts of the car. if you really wanna be safe dont be a lazy ass and just let the car idle for 30 seconds if youve been running it that hard.
I'm not gonna get a turbo timer , I'll just let my baby idle for a min or two before I turn her off. No turbo timer needed for that.
Its not a waste of money but rather an extra that can be done without.
06-13-2006, 03:25 PM
#42
Senior Member
Join Date: 03-26-06
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,271
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
BTW I love both of your cars man, I was following your Porsche build, but never posted.
Actually that reminds me that I haven't checked in on that lately. Do you have her running yet?
Actually that reminds me that I haven't checked in on that lately. Do you have her running yet?
06-13-2006, 03:33 PM
#43
Senior Member
Join Date: 03-26-06
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,271
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by RedBaseBolt
It's his "Speed"
From a VW Commercial.
From a VW Commercial.
His sig is something different, unless its a funny angle or something, I dunno
06-13-2006, 03:42 PM
#45
im workin on a turbod 2.2l for one of my friends as of rite now it kinda crazy kuze ever1 ive talkd with has told me the intercooler pipes hav to run up to the engine on 1 side but GM told me that with out doing any inside engine stuff the car can handle 8psi max but we wont know till it runs or blows up
06-13-2006, 03:51 PM
#48
Originally Posted by SS33
The 2.2 will hold up 8 intercooled psi as long as everything is done properly (fuel, spark, etc)
06-13-2006, 03:54 PM
#50
Senior Member
Join Date: 03-26-06
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,271
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Chris_20133
yeah thats what they told me well see when it gets done
If the 'Balt, what are you guys doing for fuel? Last I knew there were only band-aid fixes available currently until the ECU issues are resolved