why is my 2.2 so slow
08-21-2007, 02:28 AM
#177
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I wouldnt say that he wouldnt see a significant difference. There will be a difference, it won't be great and amazing, but it will be there. I doubt he'll go FI, since it may be out of his price range. Nitrous is a great alternative, but he does not want to void his powertrain warranty, since he recently bought the car. The mods I stated will not void the powertrain warranty, just the warranty on the stock exhaust mani, and exhaust.
08-21-2007, 02:36 AM
#182
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I know what you mean. I'm just stating the mods he should look into, since he wants to keep his warranty in place. If the warranty wasnt an issue, the bottle should be his first choice, since FI is too costly.
08-21-2007, 02:37 AM
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IMO I think he should just save up until his warranty is out and then go nitrous instead of wasting money on stuff that won't help him...or hell buy some suspension parts and make it fun for the curves or something.
08-21-2007, 06:40 AM
#190
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17.1 in an automatic 2.2 is slow...cavaliers don't have the exact engine i'm guessing, i believe chevy changed things, said the cobalt engine was built much better, that, or they're heavier. Theres a guy at my local track running 16 flat with an automatic 2.2L cobalt with intake and full exhaust.....NO weight reduction......
look up the how to launch an automatic.
look up the how to launch an automatic.
Agreed.
Last edited by NJHK; 08-21-2007 at 06:40 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
08-21-2007, 08:58 AM
#192
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Put car in Low Gear, hold brake, go WOT, release brake at green, when car shifts to second move gear into 1 or I forget which it is on this car.
At no point will you need to switch into D because I don't believe you will be reaching 4th gear.
08-21-2007, 10:26 AM
#194
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Its not manually shifting. it is putting the car in low gear that disables the traction control and helps eliminate some of the hesitation. you have to shift it up one gear otherwise your car will not shift into 3rd.
08-21-2007, 10:29 AM
#196
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yes... i know we have traction control, and that is what creates the lag in acceleration. read up on the brake launching for auto's. You start in the lowest gear to turn traction control off.
Do you read or do you just disagree or make a comment about what everyone else writes?
Do you read or do you just disagree or make a comment about what everyone else writes?
08-21-2007, 10:31 AM
#197
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usually i like to read, i never noticed driving my girls balt it still chirps the tires from a stop when you floor it, so i thought it did not have traction control becuase it would not need it
08-21-2007, 10:32 AM
#199
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With my automatic Cobalt and its modifications I am often asked how to launch it. So I thought I'd make a sticky about the technique known as Brake Starting. Most drag racing cars use automatics, and this is the technique they use.
The brake start works like this: With your car positioned on the start line, hold your regular brakes (not the parking brake) and place the car in gear. This simple act is called Brake Torqueing. Apply full pressure to your brake pedal.
Now go to Wide Open Throttle (WOT). Your tach will stop increasing at a particular RPM. That RPM is known as Stall Speed. It the fastest your Torque Converter will allow the engine to turn without the wheels turning.
At this point, release the brake pedal. Car takes off.
General notes:
This practice causes your transmission fluid inside the torque converter to absorb all of the torque from your engine turning when the wheels are not. This generates a lot of heat, and will destroy your fluid if you hold the Stall Speed any longer then necessary. Once you achieve stall, you should be releasing the brake within a second. Vehicles that use this technique should install an extra transmission fluid heat exchanger. They are rather cheap.
Brake starting should produce a cleaner initial start then a manual clutch can. The reason is due to the fact that the torque is already at the wheels before you even begin moving. Only your brakes are preventing the wheels from turning. A clutch start sends a jolt of torque through the trans and axles at the launch, which can create huge stresses on parts, causing things like the commonly known broken axle.
Brake Torqueing works on all automatic trans equipped cars, front or rear wheel drive. However, on a rear wheel drive, you probably won't achieve Stall. The rear wheels will more then likely start to turn due to the rear brakes not having enough clamping power to stop the power being delivered by the engine.
Cobalt Specific notes:
The stock stall speed on the 4T45E torque converter installed in the Cobalt is about 2400 RPM. Additionally, the converter is the weakest part of the transmission, designed only to accept about 250 ft/lbs of torque while the trans itself can handle about 320. A typical stage 2 turbo system (when such a thing finally comes around) that doesn't require you to upgrade your drive train in any way will work fine in a stock setup. Anything over 250 ft/lbs however should upgrade the converter to a heavy duty 3000 RPM stall.
The Cobalt has traction control which will interfere with this kind of launch. To overcome that problem, select first gear, or "L" depending on your model year. There is no difference in the transmissions, only the label on the gear selector is different. This will turn off traction control. Also, the Cobalt will shift to second gear during WOT acceleration even though you are only in first. After this shift occurs, slide the selector into second. This won't change anything except to allow the car to shift to third. Just like before, even though your are in second, it will still up shift one gear. It will not shift to third however if only first gear is selected. Once the car is in third, select "D"
The 4T45E has an open differential. Brake starting will probably result in one wheel spinning while the other one stands still. Without an LSD, you will need to practice your starts and vary your brake torqued throttle launch speed to get good launch traction.
The brake start works like this: With your car positioned on the start line, hold your regular brakes (not the parking brake) and place the car in gear. This simple act is called Brake Torqueing. Apply full pressure to your brake pedal.
Now go to Wide Open Throttle (WOT). Your tach will stop increasing at a particular RPM. That RPM is known as Stall Speed. It the fastest your Torque Converter will allow the engine to turn without the wheels turning.
At this point, release the brake pedal. Car takes off.
General notes:
This practice causes your transmission fluid inside the torque converter to absorb all of the torque from your engine turning when the wheels are not. This generates a lot of heat, and will destroy your fluid if you hold the Stall Speed any longer then necessary. Once you achieve stall, you should be releasing the brake within a second. Vehicles that use this technique should install an extra transmission fluid heat exchanger. They are rather cheap.
Brake starting should produce a cleaner initial start then a manual clutch can. The reason is due to the fact that the torque is already at the wheels before you even begin moving. Only your brakes are preventing the wheels from turning. A clutch start sends a jolt of torque through the trans and axles at the launch, which can create huge stresses on parts, causing things like the commonly known broken axle.
Brake Torqueing works on all automatic trans equipped cars, front or rear wheel drive. However, on a rear wheel drive, you probably won't achieve Stall. The rear wheels will more then likely start to turn due to the rear brakes not having enough clamping power to stop the power being delivered by the engine.
Cobalt Specific notes:
The stock stall speed on the 4T45E torque converter installed in the Cobalt is about 2400 RPM. Additionally, the converter is the weakest part of the transmission, designed only to accept about 250 ft/lbs of torque while the trans itself can handle about 320. A typical stage 2 turbo system (when such a thing finally comes around) that doesn't require you to upgrade your drive train in any way will work fine in a stock setup. Anything over 250 ft/lbs however should upgrade the converter to a heavy duty 3000 RPM stall.
The Cobalt has traction control which will interfere with this kind of launch. To overcome that problem, select first gear, or "L" depending on your model year. There is no difference in the transmissions, only the label on the gear selector is different. This will turn off traction control. Also, the Cobalt will shift to second gear during WOT acceleration even though you are only in first. After this shift occurs, slide the selector into second. This won't change anything except to allow the car to shift to third. Just like before, even though your are in second, it will still up shift one gear. It will not shift to third however if only first gear is selected. Once the car is in third, select "D"
The 4T45E has an open differential. Brake starting will probably result in one wheel spinning while the other one stands still. Without an LSD, you will need to practice your starts and vary your brake torqued throttle launch speed to get good launch traction.
oh my mistake. that was a question of if we have traction control. Yes we do. sorry for the snap... its been a crappy day so far
Last edited by OrngBalt; 08-21-2007 at 10:32 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost