yellows supercharged 2.2 probs.
#26
well you could always take the supercharger off. take it to stock. see if the car runs normal and if it does drive it for a bit. then ina week put the supercharger back on.
that or limit ur boost pressure. have the supercharger run at 30% boost instead of the 100% right now. limit how much air the supercharger uses and maybe it will notice the difference and fix the code. lots of guys limit their boost with HPT in 1st gear as a boost ram to help launch. if u run it all the time who knows.
that or limit ur boost pressure. have the supercharger run at 30% boost instead of the 100% right now. limit how much air the supercharger uses and maybe it will notice the difference and fix the code. lots of guys limit their boost with HPT in 1st gear as a boost ram to help launch. if u run it all the time who knows.
#31
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Thread Starter
a cabled tb will work but theres alot of different pieces that i would have to get. beside i think your right on the gas pedal ihooked up my other tb the original it would only open i little bit. im taking out the blues pedal to see if that fixes it.
#33
Senior Member
Thread Starter
ok ive changed the gas pedal and cleared the code now the only code i have is
P2135 throttle pedal position sensor switch A/B voltage correlation how the hell do i fix this?????
P2135 throttle pedal position sensor switch A/B voltage correlation how the hell do i fix this?????
#34
Senior Member
Does the car still run in limp?
DTC P2135
TP sensor No.1/No.2 voltage correlation
DETECTION CONDITION
The PCM compares the TP sensor No.1 signal value and TP sensor No.2 signal value. If the signal correlation for both is out of specification, the PCM determines that the TP sensor has a malfunction.
Diagnostic support note
This is a continuous monitor (CCM).
MIL illuminates if PCM detects the above malfunction condition during first drive cycle.
DTC P2135
TP sensor No.1/No.2 voltage correlation
DETECTION CONDITION
The PCM compares the TP sensor No.1 signal value and TP sensor No.2 signal value. If the signal correlation for both is out of specification, the PCM determines that the TP sensor has a malfunction.
Diagnostic support note
This is a continuous monitor (CCM).
MIL illuminates if PCM detects the above malfunction condition during first drive cycle.
Last edited by HackAbuse; 05-15-2007 at 03:25 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#37
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let me know what happens im having the same problems im taking it in tomorrow
except im on an ss/sc , same **** thought im pretty sure im throwing a tps code
except im on an ss/sc , same **** thought im pretty sure im throwing a tps code
Last edited by Red2.4SS/SC; 05-15-2007 at 04:06 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#41
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Im fairly convinced that either your throttle body or the TPS wiring is bad.
TP1 is a falling rate signal that should be showing ~5v at closed throttle and almost 0v at WOT. TP2 is the opposite and a usual candidate for nitrous installation as its ~0v at closed throttle and ~5v at WOT, or a rising rate signal. TP1 is the primary signal for TPS and TP2 serves as a correlation check if I remember correctly. If TP1 is showing incorrect values than predicted, a slew of emissions code will set since its the primary. If TP2 is incorrect, usually just the correlation DTC that you are getting now will set.
For them to be not inline with each other, either the TB itself or the wiring would be bad to TP2. Possibly PCM as well.
TP1 is a falling rate signal that should be showing ~5v at closed throttle and almost 0v at WOT. TP2 is the opposite and a usual candidate for nitrous installation as its ~0v at closed throttle and ~5v at WOT, or a rising rate signal. TP1 is the primary signal for TPS and TP2 serves as a correlation check if I remember correctly. If TP1 is showing incorrect values than predicted, a slew of emissions code will set since its the primary. If TP2 is incorrect, usually just the correlation DTC that you are getting now will set.
For them to be not inline with each other, either the TB itself or the wiring would be bad to TP2. Possibly PCM as well.
#43
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#44
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#45
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Thread Starter
well its fixed and no codes had to change my gas pedal and tb. to fix this. and i just drove it to the store and to the parts store. hey where can i get maybe 1-2 range colder plugs
#46
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I find the cheapie copper core plugs work best for forced induction. Copper=best conductor. They don't last as long tho. An easy way to find one range colder on an autolite is take your stock part number and subtract one from it. ie. the LSJ stock plug is 3923, one range colder is 3922. I'm not sure what the L61 uses tho.
#50
I'm old school
I was just able to reproduce your problem. I was cleaning up wiring harness bundles just now under my hood. One of the items I cleaned up was the throttle body plug. I retaped it. When I started the car, it instantly went to limp mode, stalled, and gave the same codes you listed.
I went back under the hood, un-taped it, inspected the harness (everything looked fine), re-taped it again, and put it all back together and everything is fine now.
It's your plug on your TB. Your old accelerator pedal and TB are fine.
I went back under the hood, un-taped it, inspected the harness (everything looked fine), re-taped it again, and put it all back together and everything is fine now.
It's your plug on your TB. Your old accelerator pedal and TB are fine.