regrinds have arrived! DDtech hellrazor cams provided by delta camshaft, thanks to derek and jon for making these specifically for my build

 

looks great so far, subd for more!

 

main bearing clearances lookin good

 

decking the block tomorrow, all finished with the measurements, everything where I wanted it.

.011-.012 on the 1st piston ring
.016-.018 on the second ring

.0016-.0017 on the main bearings
.0018-.0019 on the rod bearings

kinda a bit surprised by how tight GM's range is for the top ring, i would have expected somewhere between .014-.020 as a range, but they go from .006 to .012.

 

piston to wall clearance?

 

Wasn't going to go that far with the measurements since the motor ran fine before hand. I could probably run a quick check on one of the cylinders tomorrow though, i imagine its still going to be within spec.

 

from one 2.4 auto to another... awesome build so far! I'm curious to see the numbers after this gets back together! keep it up.

 

Torque converter will be just a straight replacement? Also where did you get it

 

Straight replacement for now, its a rebuild from rockauto done by "alliance mfg".

More Information for ALLIANCE B21FZFB

Internal parts separated and washed at 150 degrees
Threads inspected and replaced with new parts
Pilot is inspected and reworked if necessary
Converter lid & clutch re-turned to spec
Inspection of hub, polish if necessary
New hub is computer welded
Re-turning of bearing surface
Stator is re-built
New clutch is bonded at 450 degrees
New bearings and seals are installed
Inspection of overall height is performed before body welding
Unit is body welded holding original spec clearance
Unit is leak tested at 120 psi (operating psi is only 40-60 psi)
Inspection of run out, Alliance holds .010 (industry standard is .015)
Unit is fluid balanced to check within 5 grams or less
2nd polishing of hub prior to paint
Inspection of pump splines with shaft if necessary
Welding of balance weight if necessary
Grease hub for rust protection
Unit is repainted with high quality Sherman Williams paint


B21FZFB is the part number, , exact specs are...

125C, TH440-T4, 4T40E/45E, 4T60E/65E Transmission;
Lockup;
10.2" Diameter;
27 Splines;
0.825" Pilot;
Bushing Hub;
3 Lug Mount;
9.8" Bolt Circle;
Use With ECCC System Only;
PWM;
Codes FA, FB, FBFB, FC, FK, FZ, FZFB


Right now just went with the OEM rebuild cus my buddy was convinced the converter is worn, if I can find a matching upgrade from a better brand I might consider it down the road. Trans mods are not in my budget right now, but Precision transmission a couple towns over from me has a whole wealth of 45E and 65E mods they do when rebuilding those particular trannys. I had a acura/honda automatic built up by then for my integra previously and they did a fantastic job. That's basically where i would start when I start with the tranny, along with a LSD conversion.

 

I may have missed it but what's the powerband of those cams? Are you upgrading your balancer?

 

2200 to 7000 and no upgrade on the balancer, right now isnt a requirement unless i decide to push beyond 7000 rpm, and with the stock valve springs and small cam, that won't be happening anytime soon. If i decide to take it up above 7k ill go with upgraded springs, and the ATI balancer. Interesting thing is, everyone says you need to machine the front cover but ATI makes no mention of it.

ATI - GM Ecotec Super Damper

 

Ya people just grind it down a tiny bit. I'm really liking this build tho I was gonna do the same thing but I wrecked my LE5 and bought a LNF but lots of love for a built NA!!

 

The goal is to eventually supercharge part of the reason I chose that specific cam spec.

 

I want to buy another one it's between a LE5 and SS/SC. I could always turbo it with my leftover parts but would love to have a huge cammed high reving NA

 

I'd go with the SS/SC at this point, alot easier to tune, alot easier to cam, and if you wanted the torque of the LE5 you could always do a stroker LSJ build. Only reason I went with the SS/NA is because i wanted automatic and I wanted it fully loaded.

 

I'm stripping it fully and like I said gonna prob turbo it. I just don't think I could get the reliable HP from a LE5 turboed so ya I'm thinking of going with the LSJ because I can sell the full SC kit too.

 

How much was the tq converter replacement? May consider it when I start my build, or I may just grab a low mileage one and call it a day.

 

why don't you think you could get reliable hp with a turbo LE5? Our 06-07 models have forged internals from the factory that are comparable to the LSJ, and more displacement too.

 

still can't put down as much power or be as reliable as a turbo lsj. turbo le5's can really only be around mid 300's and still reliable, where a turbo lsj can sit at 400-450 reliably and still have room to grow.

 

As far as Internals go, LSJ and LE5 are virtually the same with I believe the exception of the crank. 06-07 LE5's with 12596088 rods are forged steel with heat treated cast pistons. LE5 also uses a nodular cast crank where as the LSJ is forged, but a nodular cast crank is good for in excess of 500hp in most cases.

$51 bucks I believe, very cheap through rockauto. The DACCO replacement through advance auto parts is about $100 bucks if you use the appropriate coupon code.

Dacco Incorporated Torque Converter B21FZFB: Purchase the best Transmission Torque Converter at Advance Auto Parts

LE5 will start falling apart between 350-400hp unless you upgrade the pistons and rod bolts, by then you might as well start looking at H beam rods, etc. Plenty of LE5/LSJ hybrids have been done though.

 

I want to have around 350whp. Just think the LSJ will be good enough to basically run that stock I don't want to tear into this engine I want to build my LNF. I've seen what a built LE5 can do in ZZP 2.4 max power testing but there is no way I have that $$$ for it just want a cheap fun stripped car

 

http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&...lA0XnAa7KM2vSQ

 

Oh no doubt, ive seen the stress tests, but it doesnt speak for EVERY single LE5 out there. Fact of the matter is, the pistons are not forged, which makes anything over 400hp risky business, yes they use the same 5.6mm upper ring land as the LSJ does, but they aren't as durable as a forged piston. The I beam rods might be forged, but they are still tiny by comparison in terms of overall size. Crank really isn't an issue at all, honda's have been pushing nodular cast cranks well over 800hp for over 15 years now. It's all a matter of a sense of security really, when you get over 350-400hp, your sense of security about when and where it could fail goes out the window, even if there have been tests showing insane numbers, not every block is the same.

Say you want to use the LE5 as your platform of choice and want to go insane, it wouldn't hurt to put a small amount of money where it counts. That's all im saying. Yeh you can use the stock rods, it would pay to upgrade the rod bolts to reduce the risk of stretching, yeh you can use the stock pistons, it would pay to run a forged piston instead (stock are all floating pin so no issues there). Yeh you can run stock LNF head bolts up to 400hp, but it pays to upgrade to studs. Catch my drift? That's why I evaluated what I would need for my potential future power goals, and put the money where it belongs. The HX rod bearings, the melling oil pump, the balance shaft removal, etc.

 

I just wanted to share that build because I know what a built LE5 can do.

I'm not going crazy on the LE5 build I have the turbo already it's 375hp max. I just don't want to have to buy anything else other than the stuff to get the turbo kit together. It's basically going to come down to what I can get the best deal on

 

I know, im just saying I wouldn't trust it going that high. 375hp is a good goal I think to shoot for with the turbo setup. Torque should be out the ass. Many people overlook the difference in torque 88x98 gives you over 86x86 lol.