ok so i recently SC'd my 2.4 about 2 months ago and for the first month i had no problems. now my boost is only sittign at around 8psi at WOT and my AFR will be at 11.7 until i shift to third around 80-85mph then my AFR will drop to 11.0 and my boost wont climb past 8psi. now when the car is just started up in the morning and ius cold i can do a pull past 100 easily with no AFR drop but the boost still won't climb past 9psi at most.

the first month i would hit 10psi everytime, i have a 3.0" pulley.

 

it could be the difference in air temperature

 

you didn't upgrade anything else in this time span?

 

Is the weather warmer now than when you first put it together? I saw roughly 2-3 less psi during the summer in the heat, than at 30F in the winter. I'm guessing this isnt it though, considering time of year. Unless you happen to live in the southern hemisphere....

 

First off. Its colder so he should have more boost, second of all ure tune is off from the colder weather, u have a bad bypass valve, or ure ic pump is bad, bro it can be many things.

 

Sounds like the boost bypass valve

 

i'm going with weather change. my aft was 11.5-11.7. in the one month that it went from humid and 70-80's to very not humid and 40's, i saw a drop to 10.8-11 and i started knocking.

fyi, my psi would very from 8-10 (stock pulley) any given day depending on how humid it was.

BBpV would be an easy thing to check too. tho i thought with the 2.4 sc swap they were permanentely closed, giving full boost. i find it hard to fathom that it's opened itself up a lil if there's no vacuum or PCM to control it in the first place.

 

The bypass valve is open when cruising and shuts when wot that's how mine works

 

YOU having another problem xander? damn man what is it now

 

nothing the car is exactly the same.
im like 99.99% sure it's not the tune because its doing better in colkder weather then the warmer weather. im going to work on the tune this saturday. im thinking possibly the bypass. i just replaced the pump saturday which i took the original pump off anyways and checked it with a battery and it worked fine so now i jusut have an extra pump for whatever

 

lol im praying i can fix it this weekend, im going down to kendalls again.

 

ok it is for sure not the tune or a boost leak. i have a friend comin gover and im going to use switch his boost bypass valve to check that

 

Easy way to check is tak all the hose from the bypass of even the one from the sc. Plug the hole and run the car. Mke sure u have the throttle plate fully closed for the bypass if ure boost raises up then bam, ure bypass is sticking, or ure sc has a wear spot where the butterfly for the.bypass valve is.

 

ok so you're saying take the hose that goes from the bypass valve to the sc off and plug the hole. then run the car and if boost builds then the bypass is sticking? also when you push the valve open it opens really easily as opposed to a car that i know runs properly is rather stiff.

 

It should be real stiff .......it should bounce back wickly as well. But yes take the hose off plug the nipple on the s.c, make sure the butterfly for the bypass is fully close and then run it. After u run it check and make sure ure bypass is in the same spot it was before and not,loose.

 

ok so... i just replaced the bypass valve and still nothijng. it's still not pushing 10psi like it's supposed to and im still running a 11.0 AFR at WOT.

now when it's cold outside like below 40 i can run a 11.7 AFR at WOT but still only boosting 8psi.