2.4 turbo or built motor
#27
how and why do you think a NA build will be less stress on the engine than a turbo engine?
just boost it and be done. I highly doubt youll hit 300whp unless your on a very "happy" dyno. And if you do, its going to be a good bit more than 7K to build that engine going all motor.
just boost it and be done. I highly doubt youll hit 300whp unless your on a very "happy" dyno. And if you do, its going to be a good bit more than 7K to build that engine going all motor.
#29
You sound like you're dead set on doing it N/A, good luck. I'd be happy to build it for you but i'm a good bit south of you lol. You have the right idea in that it will not be cheap and as long as you understand that, you can end up with a very strong running car. I personally think the auto will not deliver the results you are looking for, although a budget nitrous build would do much better IMO.
Don't worry much about the crank pulley, it isn't gonna hurt you that much. We have seen very little gain from aftermarket pullies though, i'd suggest staying with the stock one personally.
Don't worry much about the crank pulley, it isn't gonna hurt you that much. We have seen very little gain from aftermarket pullies though, i'd suggest staying with the stock one personally.
#30
If you're really interested, give me a call and I can discuss some ideas with you, i've built a couple ecotecs and several other high hp builds that give me a pretty good idea for yours.
#31
ya what do you suggest i dont want to be like evryone else and just throw a turbo on it i want to be different ill take whatever i can get out of it with that i mean its not gonna be a 10 second car if i wanted that i would do stage 3 turbo and some cams and about 150 shot of nitrous i just want to be unique but ive heard that the underdrive pulley if it is smaller will hurt your car is that why my 1/4 time went back to almost stock with and intake and full exhaust ill be doing the build next year so ill get eith you then on it ill buy the stuff and you can build it for me just give me any suggestions that you would go with
can you do itbs on our cars ?
can you do itbs on our cars ?
Last edited by donald; 08-31-2011 at 10:27 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#32
list
cat back not sure on size yet 2.5 or 3
longtube header downpipe with no cat
ignalls tb
78#valve springs
performance cams/maybe comp cams
plugs
weisco pistons and rod 800 for set on ebay
42 or 60 pound injectors
ls4 throttle body
mini afc
wideband
lightweigh crank pulley
ac delete
hahn cold air intake
hahn sheetmetal race intake
hp tune
ported and polished
arp head studs
hks grounding system
also ferra valves
neutral balance shafts delete
cat back not sure on size yet 2.5 or 3
longtube header downpipe with no cat
ignalls tb
78#valve springs
performance cams/maybe comp cams
plugs
weisco pistons and rod 800 for set on ebay
42 or 60 pound injectors
ls4 throttle body
mini afc
wideband
lightweigh crank pulley
ac delete
hahn cold air intake
hahn sheetmetal race intake
hp tune
ported and polished
arp head studs
hks grounding system
also ferra valves
neutral balance shafts delete
#33
ya what do you suggest i dont want to be like evryone else and just throw a turbo on it i want to be different ill take whatever i can get out of it with that i mean its not gonna be a 10 second car if i wanted that i would do stage 3 turbo and some cams and about 150 shot of nitrous i just want to be unique but ive heard that the underdrive pulley if it is smaller will hurt your car is that why my 1/4 time went back to almost stock with and intake and full exhaust ill be doing the build next year so ill get eith you then on it ill buy the stuff and you can build it for me just give me any suggestions that you would go with
can you do itbs on our cars ?
can you do itbs on our cars ?
what exactly do you want out of it? do you want it to run a certain time at the track? or do you just plain and simple want 300hp? as stated, boosting it would be a cheaper and easier way. and properly sizing the turbo you would have very little lag.
all motor is going to be an extensive build. ( read lots of cash ) nitrous would help as well, but agian, nitrous does add up after a while cost wise, and when the bottles empty, its not gonna be any fun.
#34
No ITB's with an electronic throttle car. Would be an IAC nightmare lol.
I'd suggest if you want strong, easy speed, a mild build for spray (pistons/rods/cams/valvesprings). Could be done for a reasonable price, will be safe and strong, and much quicker than most of the cars out there when on bottle, and drive like stock normally.
If you plan to go full built and try to reach 300whp N/A, you will get a motor that doesn't play well with the automatic trans. You could do a stock compression setup and plan for spray, but i'd suggest sleeving the block if you are gonna go overbore and I'm not sure what the limits of the stock 2.4L crank are. 450whp might be an issue on it, it's not as strong as the 2.0 cranks for sure, and nitrous hits like a hammer compared to the smooth pressure increases of boost. The really high revs you'd need for big N/A HP numbers aren't friendly either lol.
Nitrous setups are way more fun on an auto car than a full N/A build for sure. Nice window switch and it all works on it's own.
I'd suggest if you want strong, easy speed, a mild build for spray (pistons/rods/cams/valvesprings). Could be done for a reasonable price, will be safe and strong, and much quicker than most of the cars out there when on bottle, and drive like stock normally.
If you plan to go full built and try to reach 300whp N/A, you will get a motor that doesn't play well with the automatic trans. You could do a stock compression setup and plan for spray, but i'd suggest sleeving the block if you are gonna go overbore and I'm not sure what the limits of the stock 2.4L crank are. 450whp might be an issue on it, it's not as strong as the 2.0 cranks for sure, and nitrous hits like a hammer compared to the smooth pressure increases of boost. The really high revs you'd need for big N/A HP numbers aren't friendly either lol.
Nitrous setups are way more fun on an auto car than a full N/A build for sure. Nice window switch and it all works on it's own.
#35
Using a tubro would be the easiest route to make the 300 hp mark. With the money your willing to spend, you could make ever more power with the turbo setup and upgraded drivetrain. But if you are going the NA route, best of luck.
#36
if i can get 300 thats good if not oh well just want something different and that is what i came up with i think i can get pretty close to it with that the hahn intake manifold is proven for 50hp so thats 220 already so i can get pretty close
#37
#38
No ITB's with an electronic throttle car. Would be an IAC nightmare lol.
I'd suggest if you want strong, easy speed, a mild build for spray (pistons/rods/cams/valvesprings). Could be done for a reasonable price, will be safe and strong, and much quicker than most of the cars out there when on bottle, and drive like stock normally.
If you plan to go full built and try to reach 300whp N/A, you will get a motor that doesn't play well with the automatic trans. You could do a stock compression setup and plan for spray, but i'd suggest sleeving the block if you are gonna go overbore and I'm not sure what the limits of the stock 2.4L crank are. 450whp might be an issue on it, it's not as strong as the 2.0 cranks for sure, and nitrous hits like a hammer compared to the smooth pressure increases of boost. The really high revs you'd need for big N/A HP numbers aren't friendly either lol.
Nitrous setups are way more fun on an auto car than a full N/A build for sure. Nice window switch and it all works on it's own.
I'd suggest if you want strong, easy speed, a mild build for spray (pistons/rods/cams/valvesprings). Could be done for a reasonable price, will be safe and strong, and much quicker than most of the cars out there when on bottle, and drive like stock normally.
If you plan to go full built and try to reach 300whp N/A, you will get a motor that doesn't play well with the automatic trans. You could do a stock compression setup and plan for spray, but i'd suggest sleeving the block if you are gonna go overbore and I'm not sure what the limits of the stock 2.4L crank are. 450whp might be an issue on it, it's not as strong as the 2.0 cranks for sure, and nitrous hits like a hammer compared to the smooth pressure increases of boost. The really high revs you'd need for big N/A HP numbers aren't friendly either lol.
Nitrous setups are way more fun on an auto car than a full N/A build for sure. Nice window switch and it all works on it's own.
#39
The hahn manifold might be proven for that power on a turbo app, but there is no N/A manifold gaining 50hp...
#40
The hardest thing about building a true N/A is to have supporting mods that support each other. Kind of hard just to put a list part together and say done. It would be cool to see the what kind of power a 2.2/2.4 could do with the right amount of money, time, and research (ie anaylsis, prototypes, and testing).
Last edited by MadBrad; 08-31-2011 at 11:57 AM.
#41
thats why i am on here asking for help i want to do na but need some help with it putting it together need someone with experience that can help me with the products i need to buy
like i said close to 270 would be fine
like i said close to 270 would be fine
Last edited by donald; 08-31-2011 at 11:56 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#42
alot of planning will have to go into this. all the parts have to work together in harmony. cam selection, intake maniold plenum size, runner length, header selection, exhaust size, etc are going to play a very crucial roll. you cant just say i want this thing, this thing also, that part and always expect them to provide you with the best results.
#44
Honestly from a full built 2.4L I wouldn't expect much more than 250-260whp. Thats almost double stock power, which is impressive no matter what you are looking at. On a street motor with an auto there isn't much more you can do.
You will probably need a higher stall torque converter for a severe built as well, you move the powerband too far up and the car will be very laggy under daily driving. I could setup a better shift pattern to help keep it in the revs once you're moving, but initial accelleration would suffer with big cams and a lot of porting work.
You will probably need a higher stall torque converter for a severe built as well, you move the powerband too far up and the car will be very laggy under daily driving. I could setup a better shift pattern to help keep it in the revs once you're moving, but initial accelleration would suffer with big cams and a lot of porting work.
#45
Honestly from a full built 2.4L I wouldn't expect much more than 250-260whp. Thats almost double stock power, which is impressive no matter what you are looking at. On a street motor with an auto there isn't much more you can do.
You will probably need a higher stall torque converter for a severe built as well, you move the powerband too far up and the car will be very laggy under daily driving. I could setup a better shift pattern to help keep it in the revs once you're moving, but initial accelleration would suffer with big cams and a lot of porting work.
You will probably need a higher stall torque converter for a severe built as well, you move the powerband too far up and the car will be very laggy under daily driving. I could setup a better shift pattern to help keep it in the revs once you're moving, but initial accelleration would suffer with big cams and a lot of porting work.
#46
If you dont' go all the way you won't see the power you want N/A. If you want a solid, strong running street build, boost or bottle is gonna be how you get the power. A sentra I did for a buddy, with just pistons/rods and some magic touches, is pulling well over 400whp out of a 2.5L with boost. That motor N/A wouldn't stand a chance to break 250. And the boost build is cheaper/easier in my experience.
I can make whatever setup you want work well, but the issue comes down to what you expect out of it. A basic, bolt-on M62 setup from an LSJ will keep up with your car on a built N/A setup, is that what you want? If you are looking for impressive power, it's gonna take some work, and it's just not gonna happen on motor.
I can make whatever setup you want work well, but the issue comes down to what you expect out of it. A basic, bolt-on M62 setup from an LSJ will keep up with your car on a built N/A setup, is that what you want? If you are looking for impressive power, it's gonna take some work, and it's just not gonna happen on motor.
#48
If you dont' go all the way you won't see the power you want N/A. If you want a solid, strong running street build, boost or bottle is gonna be how you get the power. A sentra I did for a buddy, with just pistons/rods and some magic touches, is pulling well over 400whp out of a 2.5L with boost. That motor N/A wouldn't stand a chance to break 250. And the boost build is cheaper/easier in my experience.
I can make whatever setup you want work well, but the issue comes down to what you expect out of it. A basic, bolt-on M62 setup from an LSJ will keep up with your car on a built N/A setup, is that what you want? If you are looking for impressive power, it's gonna take some work, and it's just not gonna happen on motor.
I can make whatever setup you want work well, but the issue comes down to what you expect out of it. A basic, bolt-on M62 setup from an LSJ will keep up with your car on a built N/A setup, is that what you want? If you are looking for impressive power, it's gonna take some work, and it's just not gonna happen on motor.
this.
Basic M62 setup will get you in the range of a built N/A setup.
#49
Hey this is my take on this topic.
Building a 200whp NA engine is pretty easy, building a 300whp engine when no one has ever been close to those power levels is gonna be hard.
You looking at probably 13-14:1 compression, probably have to run it on race gas, ITB's and a custom ground cam from hell. Not to mention a very well ported head and some sort of custom rod/piston combo to get you away from the nasty 1.45:1 rod ratio of the LE5 if you want to rev it high and actually make power up there (ie. Over 8000)
Now running all that through your auto trans would be a waste, unless you picked up a fully built 4t45 (pretty sure SMG can hook you up).
Running over 8000rpm on the F23 is going to be difficult as the syncros don't like much more than 7500 before they refuse to go into the next gear.
Basically, if your looking for more than 200whp, highly suggest going turbo, otherwise you are going to spend alot of money and end up with a car that isn't streetable and won't make 300whp on the motor.
For reference I am only running the LE5 bottom end, I have a ported LSJ head by AMMFAB, which is the highest flowing head available for any ecotec to date, it's 1 of 1 in existence.
Building a 200whp NA engine is pretty easy, building a 300whp engine when no one has ever been close to those power levels is gonna be hard.
You looking at probably 13-14:1 compression, probably have to run it on race gas, ITB's and a custom ground cam from hell. Not to mention a very well ported head and some sort of custom rod/piston combo to get you away from the nasty 1.45:1 rod ratio of the LE5 if you want to rev it high and actually make power up there (ie. Over 8000)
Now running all that through your auto trans would be a waste, unless you picked up a fully built 4t45 (pretty sure SMG can hook you up).
Running over 8000rpm on the F23 is going to be difficult as the syncros don't like much more than 7500 before they refuse to go into the next gear.
Basically, if your looking for more than 200whp, highly suggest going turbo, otherwise you are going to spend alot of money and end up with a car that isn't streetable and won't make 300whp on the motor.
For reference I am only running the LE5 bottom end, I have a ported LSJ head by AMMFAB, which is the highest flowing head available for any ecotec to date, it's 1 of 1 in existence.
#50
My Autobox takes most of the fun out of driving, what everyone is saying about the tranny is very true and no matter what you decide the auto will let you down in stock form, even if it is a tough sob.