2.4 turbo or built motor
#52
Hey this is my take on this topic.
Building a 200whp NA engine is pretty easy, building a 300whp engine when no one has ever been close to those power levels is gonna be hard.
You looking at probably 13-14:1 compression, probably have to run it on race gas, ITB's and a custom ground cam from hell. Not to mention a very well ported head and some sort of custom rod/piston combo to get you away from the nasty 1.45:1 rod ratio of the LE5 if you want to rev it high and actually make power up there (ie. Over 8000)
Now running all that through your auto trans would be a waste, unless you picked up a fully built 4t45 (pretty sure SMG can hook you up).
Running over 8000rpm on the F23 is going to be difficult as the syncros don't like much more than 7500 before they refuse to go into the next gear.
Basically, if your looking for more than 200whp, highly suggest going turbo, otherwise you are going to spend alot of money and end up with a car that isn't streetable and won't make 300whp on the motor.
For reference I am only running the LE5 bottom end, I have a ported LSJ head by AMMFAB, which is the highest flowing head available for any ecotec to date, it's 1 of 1 in existence.
Building a 200whp NA engine is pretty easy, building a 300whp engine when no one has ever been close to those power levels is gonna be hard.
You looking at probably 13-14:1 compression, probably have to run it on race gas, ITB's and a custom ground cam from hell. Not to mention a very well ported head and some sort of custom rod/piston combo to get you away from the nasty 1.45:1 rod ratio of the LE5 if you want to rev it high and actually make power up there (ie. Over 8000)
Now running all that through your auto trans would be a waste, unless you picked up a fully built 4t45 (pretty sure SMG can hook you up).
Running over 8000rpm on the F23 is going to be difficult as the syncros don't like much more than 7500 before they refuse to go into the next gear.
Basically, if your looking for more than 200whp, highly suggest going turbo, otherwise you are going to spend alot of money and end up with a car that isn't streetable and won't make 300whp on the motor.
For reference I am only running the LE5 bottom end, I have a ported LSJ head by AMMFAB, which is the highest flowing head available for any ecotec to date, it's 1 of 1 in existence.
#55
•2.0 LSJ Cylinder Head (Race Ported by AMMFAB) - Cylinder head was $250, porting was $1050
•+1mm Si Valves - $210
•Cometic Head Gasket - $130
•Golden Eagle Head Studs - $100
•K&N WAI w. Velocity Stack - $80
•LE5 Intake Manifold (Port Matched) - $250 (free for you)
•62.5mm Bored TB - ~$200
•Comp Cams Stage 2 N/A Cams - $470
•Supertech 78lb Valve Springs/Retainers - $380
•LZM Balance Shaft Delete - $125
•GMR Hardened Oil Pump Gears - $300
•Ford Racing (Blue Demon) 42lb/hr Fuel Injectors -$150
•AMMFAB Long Tube Stepped Race Header - $550
•Summit Racing 3" Cut-Out - $80
•QTP 3" Electric Cut-Out Plate - $170
•LZM Upper Motor Mount - $110
•Prothane Lower Motor Mount - $80
•Prothane Transmission Mounts - $50
•Quaife Helical LSD - $1000
•Custom Bully Clutch Kit (Stage 3 Disk) - $550
•A/C Delete
•EVAP Delete
•Inovate Motorsports Wideband - $150
•HP Tuned by Me - $700 (I bought the software and cable)
Those are my engine mods, some from this year, some from years before this. That puts me up to ~$7500, that doesn't include the cost to ship the parts or all the extra little bits needed in install most of them. (Some of those prices I guessed at, I bought some of them so long ago I don't remember what they are worth anymore.)
That also doesn't include the suspension upgrades and wheels and tires to get the car to get off the line.
Also, my motor should make about 205-215whp....no where near 300whp like you want.
All-motor is absolutely the worst bang for the buck there is, however to me its worth it at the end of the day when you can hang with the boosted kids.
To make a 300whp N/A motor with supporting mods you are probably looking over 10k IMO...if it can even be done (it obviously can be done, just depends who is selecting parts and building it).
Cylinder head was ported by Mike @ AMMFAB, it will bolt up to your LE5 however you will have some wiring to sort out since its not a VVT motor and I don't know how the computer will like no longer seeing those sensors. It will also probably take some light fabricating to get it in there, I'm not 100% whats involved with the Delta world, but I know on mine a few little things needed to either be clearanced or grinded, I also needed to make a block off plate for the Exhaust cam end (this is if the LE5 does use two long cams like the LSJ. If this is not the case you will also need to weld in the oil passage on the last exhaust cam journal since the short cam doesn't use the last one, not doing this could result is a lack of oil pressure to the head since the oil can free flow out that port without the cam present.)
All in all, its going to be alot of headaches and time to get that build going. No offense to you, but I don't really think you have the knowledge to pull off such a build at the moment. Either postpone the build and spend the next while reading and reading and reading about all-motor set-ups and what works (hondatech is a great place for ideas).
That or do a simple bolt-on all-motor setup and spray it with nitrous, you can also just boost it, which is the easiest and cheapest way to make power.
Good luck with whatever you choose.
#56
I'd suggest going as you said, with a simple bolt-on nitrous build for maximum bang for the buck. Pistons/rods, supporting mods and a properly designed nitrous setup would set you up with a very solid 300hp engine that would be a beast.
#57
#58
2.4 LE5 Bottom End - $400 bucks (free for you)
2.0 LSJ Cylinder Head (Race Ported by AMMFAB) - Cylinder head was $250, porting was $1050
+1mm Si Valves - $210
Cometic Head Gasket - $130
Golden Eagle Head Studs - $100
K&N WAI w. Velocity Stack - $80
LE5 Intake Manifold (Port Matched) - $250 (free for you)
62.5mm Bored TB - ~$200
Comp Cams Stage 2 N/A Cams - $470
Supertech 78lb Valve Springs/Retainers - $380
LZM Balance Shaft Delete - $125
GMR Hardened Oil Pump Gears - $300
Ford Racing (Blue Demon) 42lb/hr Fuel Injectors -$150
AMMFAB Long Tube Stepped Race Header - $550
Summit Racing 3" Cut-Out - $80
QTP 3" Electric Cut-Out Plate - $170
LZM Upper Motor Mount - $110
Prothane Lower Motor Mount - $80
Prothane Transmission Mounts - $50
Quaife Helical LSD - $1000
Custom Bully Clutch Kit (Stage 3 Disk) - $550
A/C Delete
EVAP Delete
Inovate Motorsports Wideband - $150
HP Tuned by Me - $700 (I bought the software and cable)
Those are my engine mods, some from this year, some from years before this. That puts me up to ~$7500, that doesn't include the cost to ship the parts or all the extra little bits needed in install most of them. (Some of those prices I guessed at, I bought some of them so long ago I don't remember what they are worth anymore.)
That also doesn't include the suspension upgrades and wheels and tires to get the car to get off the line.
Also, my motor should make about 205-215whp....no where near 300whp like you want.
All-motor is absolutely the worst bang for the buck there is, however to me its worth it at the end of the day when you can hang with the boosted kids.
To make a 300whp N/A motor with supporting mods you are probably looking over 10k IMO...if it can even be done (it obviously can be done, just depends who is selecting parts and building it).
Cylinder head was ported by Mike @ AMMFAB, it will bolt up to your LE5 however you will have some wiring to sort out since its not a VVT motor and I don't know how the computer will like no longer seeing those sensors. It will also probably take some light fabricating to get it in there, I'm not 100% whats involved with the Delta world, but I know on mine a few little things needed to either be clearanced or grinded, I also needed to make a block off plate for the Exhaust cam end (this is if the LE5 does use two long cams like the LSJ. If this is not the case you will also need to weld in the oil passage on the last exhaust cam journal since the short cam doesn't use the last one, not doing this could result is a lack of oil pressure to the head since the oil can free flow out that port without the cam present.)
All in all, its going to be alot of headaches and time to get that build going. No offense to you, but I don't really think you have the knowledge to pull off such a build at the moment. Either postpone the build and spend the next while reading and reading and reading about all-motor set-ups and what works (hondatech is a great place for ideas).
That or do a simple bolt-on all-motor setup and spray it with nitrous, you can also just boost it, which is the easiest and cheapest way to make power.
Good luck with whatever you choose.
2.0 LSJ Cylinder Head (Race Ported by AMMFAB) - Cylinder head was $250, porting was $1050
+1mm Si Valves - $210
Cometic Head Gasket - $130
Golden Eagle Head Studs - $100
K&N WAI w. Velocity Stack - $80
LE5 Intake Manifold (Port Matched) - $250 (free for you)
62.5mm Bored TB - ~$200
Comp Cams Stage 2 N/A Cams - $470
Supertech 78lb Valve Springs/Retainers - $380
LZM Balance Shaft Delete - $125
GMR Hardened Oil Pump Gears - $300
Ford Racing (Blue Demon) 42lb/hr Fuel Injectors -$150
AMMFAB Long Tube Stepped Race Header - $550
Summit Racing 3" Cut-Out - $80
QTP 3" Electric Cut-Out Plate - $170
LZM Upper Motor Mount - $110
Prothane Lower Motor Mount - $80
Prothane Transmission Mounts - $50
Quaife Helical LSD - $1000
Custom Bully Clutch Kit (Stage 3 Disk) - $550
A/C Delete
EVAP Delete
Inovate Motorsports Wideband - $150
HP Tuned by Me - $700 (I bought the software and cable)
Those are my engine mods, some from this year, some from years before this. That puts me up to ~$7500, that doesn't include the cost to ship the parts or all the extra little bits needed in install most of them. (Some of those prices I guessed at, I bought some of them so long ago I don't remember what they are worth anymore.)
That also doesn't include the suspension upgrades and wheels and tires to get the car to get off the line.
Also, my motor should make about 205-215whp....no where near 300whp like you want.
All-motor is absolutely the worst bang for the buck there is, however to me its worth it at the end of the day when you can hang with the boosted kids.
To make a 300whp N/A motor with supporting mods you are probably looking over 10k IMO...if it can even be done (it obviously can be done, just depends who is selecting parts and building it).
Cylinder head was ported by Mike @ AMMFAB, it will bolt up to your LE5 however you will have some wiring to sort out since its not a VVT motor and I don't know how the computer will like no longer seeing those sensors. It will also probably take some light fabricating to get it in there, I'm not 100% whats involved with the Delta world, but I know on mine a few little things needed to either be clearanced or grinded, I also needed to make a block off plate for the Exhaust cam end (this is if the LE5 does use two long cams like the LSJ. If this is not the case you will also need to weld in the oil passage on the last exhaust cam journal since the short cam doesn't use the last one, not doing this could result is a lack of oil pressure to the head since the oil can free flow out that port without the cam present.)
All in all, its going to be alot of headaches and time to get that build going. No offense to you, but I don't really think you have the knowledge to pull off such a build at the moment. Either postpone the build and spend the next while reading and reading and reading about all-motor set-ups and what works (hondatech is a great place for ideas).
That or do a simple bolt-on all-motor setup and spray it with nitrous, you can also just boost it, which is the easiest and cheapest way to make power.
Good luck with whatever you choose.
#60
Do what you want, I just don't wanna see someone waste their money.
#62
ok thats cool but i am going to get the 4t45 tranny so with that what can i get? and italian joe is gonna build it for me
Last edited by donald; 09-02-2011 at 12:36 PM.
#63
You have that trans already, thats the stock automatic. There are parts out there to build them up stronger, but with the low torque from an N/A build it won't be needed. Not sure how that trans will respond to very high rpms, but you should be ok with just an upgraded torque converter.
#64
There is no such thing as a f4f45 trans.
Its a 4t45, the 4 is how many gears it has, the t stands for transverse (as in the orientation of your engine mounting) and the 45 stands for 4500lbs, as in the weight of the vechical its designed for.
Unless you can get the stock trans to shift at 7500 RPM and not blow up it will need to be modified.
Also, your going to need a 4000-5500rpm stall.
Donald - dude, seriously.....I don't wanna sound like a dick...but you don't have the knowledge to start this kinda project yet, regardless of who does it for you. Do some reading before you start picking random parts and hope they all work out. I don't think you really "get it" yet.
I seriously don't see this build happening, again no offfence, so this will be my last post in here. I feel like I'm talking to a wall right now.
Good Luck
Its a 4t45, the 4 is how many gears it has, the t stands for transverse (as in the orientation of your engine mounting) and the 45 stands for 4500lbs, as in the weight of the vechical its designed for.
Unless you can get the stock trans to shift at 7500 RPM and not blow up it will need to be modified.
Also, your going to need a 4000-5500rpm stall.
Donald - dude, seriously.....I don't wanna sound like a dick...but you don't have the knowledge to start this kinda project yet, regardless of who does it for you. Do some reading before you start picking random parts and hope they all work out. I don't think you really "get it" yet.
I seriously don't see this build happening, again no offfence, so this will be my last post in here. I feel like I'm talking to a wall right now.
Good Luck
#65
There is no such thing as a f4f45 trans.
Its a 4t45, the 4 is how many gears it has, the t stands for transverse (as in the orientation of your engine mounting) and the 45 stands for 4500lbs, as in the weight of the vechical its designed for.
Unless you can get the stock trans to shift at 7500 RPM and not blow up it will need to be modified.
Also, your going to need a 4000-5500rpm stall.
Donald - dude, seriously.....I don't wanna sound like a dick...but you don't have the knowledge to start this kinda project yet, regardless of who does it for you. Do some reading before you start picking random parts and hope they all work out. I don't think you really "get it" yet.
I seriously don't see this build happening, again no offfence, so this will be my last post in here. I feel like I'm talking to a wall right now.
Good Luck
Its a 4t45, the 4 is how many gears it has, the t stands for transverse (as in the orientation of your engine mounting) and the 45 stands for 4500lbs, as in the weight of the vechical its designed for.
Unless you can get the stock trans to shift at 7500 RPM and not blow up it will need to be modified.
Also, your going to need a 4000-5500rpm stall.
Donald - dude, seriously.....I don't wanna sound like a dick...but you don't have the knowledge to start this kinda project yet, regardless of who does it for you. Do some reading before you start picking random parts and hope they all work out. I don't think you really "get it" yet.
I seriously don't see this build happening, again no offfence, so this will be my last post in here. I feel like I'm talking to a wall right now.
Good Luck
ok well we will see what happens next year thanks to all theat helped especially italian joe i appreciate it
#66
You have that trans already, thats the stock automatic. There are parts out there to build them up stronger, but with the low torque from an N/A build it won't be needed. Not sure how that trans will respond to very high rpms, but you should be ok with just an upgraded torque converter.
#67
so i know i sound hard headed but this is what i really want to do weather it puts me up as far as a turbo or not i want to do this and i was just asking yall help with it i know how to build and install i just need some help on what would work together
#71
AVOID JBP.
They are banned from here and the tri-flow camshafts were allegedly duds.
ZZP, OTTP, TTR are the big 3 vendors, Powell Race Parts, Euthenasia and a few others also fab some wicked parts for the 'balt.
They are banned from here and the tri-flow camshafts were allegedly duds.
ZZP, OTTP, TTR are the big 3 vendors, Powell Race Parts, Euthenasia and a few others also fab some wicked parts for the 'balt.
#72
GM build book describes a built NA engine running on E85 with 325hp
food for thought it has been done therefore it can be done again but they ran her up to 8k rpms to get there.
http://gmtunersource.com/racertech/e...ition/download
hope im not late or repeating anyone
food for thought it has been done therefore it can be done again but they ran her up to 8k rpms to get there.
http://gmtunersource.com/racertech/e...ition/download
hope im not late or repeating anyone
#74
bringing back an old thread here. what if the op builds the bottom end and then turbo it? i mean if hes looking for 300whp i wanna think it could be done with pump gas. think about it. they make what? 142 real world whp...bad start BUT seriously if the honda guys can build a 400hp 1.5L ANYTHING is possible with an electronic tb...i know im going to build my bottom end hopefully next year then turbo the hell out of it around 15 psi.... should keep up with the local 12 second camaros and **** around here...<<< this guy is a 2.4 auto na lol