About Time
11-03-2012 | 02:23 PM
#128
Oil-- 0w-20, make sure it's at operating temp.
You're auto, right ? What are you shifting at? Try changing shift points a couple passes at a time- two passes means "tested and verified" raise shift point, see if your time increases or decreases, until you find what the car wants.
Brake start.
Weight reduction- the old saying was 100 pounds = .1 second. Ultra lightweight wheels (front in this case) make more difference (rotating vs static)
Run in the spring and fall for coolest weather, and mornings for lowest water grains.
You're auto, right ? What are you shifting at? Try changing shift points a couple passes at a time- two passes means "tested and verified" raise shift point, see if your time increases or decreases, until you find what the car wants.
Brake start.
Weight reduction- the old saying was 100 pounds = .1 second. Ultra lightweight wheels (front in this case) make more difference (rotating vs static)
Run in the spring and fall for coolest weather, and mornings for lowest water grains.
11-03-2012 | 02:50 PM
#129
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: 10-04-12
Posts: 320
Likes: 1
From: ,
If you're looking for time slips, just skip to the end.
Lookin into the TB swap, and some NoS for X-mas. Other than that, I want to build a legit drop-down CAI where my intake silencer came from under the headlight. If I had a job while I'm in college I would be saving for boost and a manual tranny swap.
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And if you want to troll... The 14 was next to me on my first run (first slip) that landed me nearly buried in the sand pit.. It was run by a 06-09 BMW 528i 4-Door.
--------------------------
Here's some pics I got. All of my friends had dead phones or couldn't get good pics from where they were at. I didn't get any pics of R/T, Times, or Trap Speeds from the board. I'm extra upset because I didn't get a video, and I asked my friend to make a video of my last run :/
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Just put it on for a quick pic before my first run, and no I didn't HAVE to wear it haha
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Tech Booth
They inspected my Traction Control Switch! Which I made it look like a NOS switch from the fast and the furious, but in all seriousness I needed the T/C switch so I could help the truck pull me out by assisting in reverse, no T/C obviously [:
-------------------------
First Time Behind the Tower
The brand new CTS-V (Not a Lingenfelter (in front of me to the left) ended up running just under 11.400 by the end of the night. He said it was twin turboed and other mods etc. It was demonic!
-------------------------
About to pull up to the line for my first run
Last pic I got before my phone died
-------------------------
The three slips I actually got. I guessed on the years of the mustang and bmw.
> 1st Time at the Line: First time slip on the left, forgot to brake start. Ended up in the sand pit. The other car was an '06-'09 BMW 528i
> 2nd Time at the Line: Middle Slip. Brake Started, tires coated in dust/dirt from the sand pit. The other car was an '08-'10 Mustang Auto v6, with a GT body style, no GT badges.
> 3rd Time at the Line: I was sent back to the pits to clean some gravel out because I was tracking it to the line from the creases in the body paneling. Not sure why they didn't catch it on my previous run.
> 4th Time at the Line: Cleaned some gravel out, brake started. Everything was great until about 60 mph at 5,400 rpm, when I hit an oil patch, and fish tailed (Pretty scary). After a couple seconds I hooked again. Ran a low 16, and skipped the time booth, not wanting the slip, because I caught the 16.XXX out of the corner of my eye, passing the board. They closed the left lane after another driver crashed, and ran people out of the right lane.
> 5th Time at the Line: Last slip on the right, tires still coated in dust. Didn't go for 0.000 R/T; I waited for the green light on this one. Best run of the night. Got coolant temperature readout down to 176 degrees, and saw it at about 230 in the turnoff lane.
-------------------------
"Proof Pics"
-------------------------
My front tires are still covered in dirt, even after driving 100 miles since my last run. There's a lot of small pieces of gravel in my tread as well.
[Can Provide Pic]
Lookin into the TB swap, and some NoS for X-mas. Other than that, I want to build a legit drop-down CAI where my intake silencer came from under the headlight. If I had a job while I'm in college I would be saving for boost and a manual tranny swap.
-------------------------
And if you want to troll... The 14 was next to me on my first run (first slip) that landed me nearly buried in the sand pit.. It was run by a 06-09 BMW 528i 4-Door.
--------------------------
Here's some pics I got. All of my friends had dead phones or couldn't get good pics from where they were at. I didn't get any pics of R/T, Times, or Trap Speeds from the board. I'm extra upset because I didn't get a video, and I asked my friend to make a video of my last run :/
-------------------------
Just put it on for a quick pic before my first run, and no I didn't HAVE to wear it haha
-------------------------
Tech Booth
They inspected my Traction Control Switch! Which I made it look like a NOS switch from the fast and the furious, but in all seriousness I needed the T/C switch so I could help the truck pull me out by assisting in reverse, no T/C obviously [:
-------------------------
First Time Behind the Tower
The brand new CTS-V (Not a Lingenfelter (in front of me to the left) ended up running just under 11.400 by the end of the night. He said it was twin turboed and other mods etc. It was demonic!
-------------------------
About to pull up to the line for my first run
Last pic I got before my phone died
-------------------------
The three slips I actually got. I guessed on the years of the mustang and bmw.
> 1st Time at the Line: First time slip on the left, forgot to brake start. Ended up in the sand pit. The other car was an '06-'09 BMW 528i
> 2nd Time at the Line: Middle Slip. Brake Started, tires coated in dust/dirt from the sand pit. The other car was an '08-'10 Mustang Auto v6, with a GT body style, no GT badges.
> 3rd Time at the Line: I was sent back to the pits to clean some gravel out because I was tracking it to the line from the creases in the body paneling. Not sure why they didn't catch it on my previous run.
> 4th Time at the Line: Cleaned some gravel out, brake started. Everything was great until about 60 mph at 5,400 rpm, when I hit an oil patch, and fish tailed (Pretty scary). After a couple seconds I hooked again. Ran a low 16, and skipped the time booth, not wanting the slip, because I caught the 16.XXX out of the corner of my eye, passing the board. They closed the left lane after another driver crashed, and ran people out of the right lane.
> 5th Time at the Line: Last slip on the right, tires still coated in dust. Didn't go for 0.000 R/T; I waited for the green light on this one. Best run of the night. Got coolant temperature readout down to 176 degrees, and saw it at about 230 in the turnoff lane.
-------------------------
"Proof Pics"
-------------------------
My front tires are still covered in dirt, even after driving 100 miles since my last run. There's a lot of small pieces of gravel in my tread as well.
[Can Provide Pic]
11-03-2012 | 02:54 PM
#130
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: 10-04-12
Posts: 320
Likes: 1
From: ,
Oil-- 0w-20, make sure it's at operating temp.
You're auto, right ? What are you shifting at? Try changing shift points a couple passes at a time- two passes means "tested and verified" raise shift point, see if your time increases or decreases, until you find what the car wants.
Brake start.
Weight reduction- the old saying was 100 pounds = .1 second. Ultra lightweight wheels (front in this case) make more difference (rotating vs static)
Run in the spring and fall for coolest weather, and mornings for lowest water grains.
You're auto, right ? What are you shifting at? Try changing shift points a couple passes at a time- two passes means "tested and verified" raise shift point, see if your time increases or decreases, until you find what the car wants.
Brake start.
Weight reduction- the old saying was 100 pounds = .1 second. Ultra lightweight wheels (front in this case) make more difference (rotating vs static)
Run in the spring and fall for coolest weather, and mornings for lowest water grains.
Yes, I'm auto. Start in low, shift at 5600 to Drive. The tranny doesn't shift when I go into drive, it shifts at 72mph into 3rd. How do I change shift points?
It was overwhelming at first.. Lots to remember. I got the pre-staging and staging down correctly. Everything went smoother on my last run when I envisioned myself from start to finish
11-03-2012 | 03:58 PM
#132
you said "oil change" so I am recommending a grade change-- 0W-20 --- instead of 5W-30 less viscous friction = more power at the flywheel. You are low enough rpm, and low enough cyl pressure that this move won't hurt anything. you should see a small gain in mpg on the street too.
2 generic rule of thumb when it comes to oil-- run the thinnest viscosity possible without bearing wear, and 10psi per 1000 rpm-- i.e. 60psi @ 6000 rpm. most factory systems overdo "safe" , so dialing it back a bit for a conscientous driver/owner/builder is perfectly acceptable.
also forgot to mention in my previous response-- side gapped plugs will give you a bit. The plugs won't last as long, but it's a cheap and effective mod.
just doing all the things mentioned in the thread, and "driver mod" should get you that 14.99 next spring.
2 generic rule of thumb when it comes to oil-- run the thinnest viscosity possible without bearing wear, and 10psi per 1000 rpm-- i.e. 60psi @ 6000 rpm. most factory systems overdo "safe" , so dialing it back a bit for a conscientous driver/owner/builder is perfectly acceptable.
also forgot to mention in my previous response-- side gapped plugs will give you a bit. The plugs won't last as long, but it's a cheap and effective mod.
just doing all the things mentioned in the thread, and "driver mod" should get you that 14.99 next spring.
11-03-2012 | 08:51 PM
#141
Senior Member
Joined: 07-21-11
Posts: 10,935
Likes: 93
From: Texas
Oh. Not here.
My family is talking me into turboing mine. I'm almost convinced. Lol
They all have fast cars and I'm left out
My family is talking me into turboing mine. I'm almost convinced. Lol
They all have fast cars and I'm left out
Last edited by chevygirl2006; 11-03-2012 at 08:51 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
11-03-2012 | 09:39 PM
#142
Senior Member
Joined: 01-08-11
Posts: 1,102
Likes: 0
From: north of milw, wi
11-03-2012 | 10:17 PM
#145
Senior Member
Joined: 01-08-11
Posts: 1,102
Likes: 0
From: north of milw, wi
You're in Texas so u prolly won't make the trip to ZZP for dyno tuning, so u would have to find a tuner locally then. So w/o dyno tuning and stage 2 kit external wastegate dump, 50mm BOV, 3" catless dp, standard sized IC, and the pcm/tcm core charge your looking at about a little over 3 grand w/o shipping added. NOT a bad deal at all, and would be a bit cheaper on black friday if they choose to put up a discount for it. Not to mention all you can sell off the 2.4 (tb,intake, im, header, dp, catback)
11-04-2012 | 02:24 AM
#147
Senior Member
Joined: 01-08-11
Posts: 1,102
Likes: 0
From: north of milw, wi
11-04-2012 | 03:37 AM
#149
Senior Member
Joined: 01-08-11
Posts: 1,102
Likes: 0
From: north of milw, wi
I was just suggesting selling the aftermarket bolt on parts you bought example: intake, header, lsj tb, dp, catback. That'd prolly get you back roughly $400-$500 back depending on what brands you have
11-04-2012 | 11:36 AM
#150
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: 10-04-12
Posts: 320
Likes: 1
From: ,
you said "oil change" so I am recommending a grade change-- 0W-20 --- instead of 5W-30 less viscous friction = more power at the flywheel. You are low enough rpm, and low enough cyl pressure that this move won't hurt anything. you should see a small gain in mpg on the street too.
2 generic rule of thumb when it comes to oil-- run the thinnest viscosity possible without bearing wear, and 10psi per 1000 rpm-- i.e. 60psi @ 6000 rpm. most factory systems overdo "safe" , so dialing it back a bit for a conscientous driver/owner/builder is perfectly acceptable.
also forgot to mention in my previous response-- side gapped plugs will give you a bit. The plugs won't last as long, but it's a cheap and effective mod.
just doing all the things mentioned in the thread, and "driver mod" should get you that 14.99 next spring.
2 generic rule of thumb when it comes to oil-- run the thinnest viscosity possible without bearing wear, and 10psi per 1000 rpm-- i.e. 60psi @ 6000 rpm. most factory systems overdo "safe" , so dialing it back a bit for a conscientous driver/owner/builder is perfectly acceptable.
also forgot to mention in my previous response-- side gapped plugs will give you a bit. The plugs won't last as long, but it's a cheap and effective mod.
just doing all the things mentioned in the thread, and "driver mod" should get you that 14.99 next spring.