Badmab install
#1
Badmab install
I plan on getting the header soon since I got my zzp downpipe but after what my dad told me, I'm second guessing myself. He worked on cars for a good chunk of his life so he knows what he's talking about. He keeps on telling me that when i go to pull the stock header off, changes are that it won't come off easily and the bolts could break off and basically cause a huge headache. So question is, how difficult was it installing the badmab? Anyone run into any major issues?
#2
I haven't installed a header on a cobalt yet, but about a dozen ecotec jbodies and you'll need to do it from below imo, little easier, however I have never had any exhaust bolt's snap. Just be careful and don't go all gung ho and you should be fine. If one becomes an isse, run the car a little bit to warm it up, or use some penetrating lube... hardy har lol
#3
It wasnt to bad. These cars r'nt to old yet so i dont think u'll have any issur with bolts breaking. I did the job on lift at work and i can imagine that doing it without a lift isnt going to fun. :/
#4
The install isn't bad, just take your time and you will be fine. Some bolts you will need to get from the top and the others from underneath, there is a very nice how to on here somewhere. Just search for it in the how to section
#6
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,331
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
It's not hard....
You can remove most of the 13 mm bolts from the top (before u jack the car up).
If you're worried about rusted bolts, just spray some liquid wrench and let it sit for an hour or so.
You can remove most of the 13 mm bolts from the top (before u jack the car up).
If you're worried about rusted bolts, just spray some liquid wrench and let it sit for an hour or so.
#8
really want to get a header/catted dp for my 2.2 but I have a Tsudo/Option Racing exhaust, I just know its going to sound like ****, I love the way the car sounds now and dont really want a change in tone. Would the car sound completely different if I added a second resonator then did a header and dp?
#11
Alrighty, thanks guys! I have a friend with a lift so it shouldn't be too bad. One more question though, I know to use GM gaskets for the Badmab but are ZZP's ok for the downpipe or should I buy GM ones as well? I already have ZZP's but I'll get GM ones if it'll save me the hassle of replacing them down the line.
#15
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,331
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
#17
Don't try to reef a rusty bolt out in one go. Turn it out and then turn it back in a half turn or so to clear the thread. That along with PB blaster and a little heat if necessary and you should be able to get out pretty well any bolt.
#19
Spray some liquid wrench or wd40 and let it sit overnight if you are worried about snapping the studs. But they really should not break.
And use the gm gaskets, the stuff they send you with the header isnt any good.
And use the gm gaskets, the stuff they send you with the header isnt any good.
#22
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,331
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
#23
My car has 113k to the frame, 64k to the motor, and I installed an aftermarket header on my car around 104k to the frame and motor (before the swap), and yeah they were rusty, but honestly I wasn't too worried about snapping bolts. The only issue I had was after about 4k miles on my aftermarket header, my downpipe gasket (no-cat or resonator) blew 2 of the studs completely off. Too much racecar I guess. Anyway, that's the only issue I really had, and just took the remaining bolt to a True Value Hardware store and patched it all up with 2 new bolts and nuts costing ~$5.00 total. After all that and about 10k miles more, my main header gasket finally blew a couple of weeks ago, and I just got a Genuine GM one to go right back. Debating whether to take my header off and line up the gasket and use a drimmel to bore the collectors to 1.65" or not.
^^^ This is so true. Once you pull your old header and gaskets you'll probably want to go with the shiny ones from the box you just got.. Don't go down that road, trust me. You will just have to swap for your OEM anyway, so save yourself some times.
Also, I was able to pull me header out from the top of the car. If the bolts aren't loose, then it might take you a minute, but I've never spent more than 45 minutes bent over to pull out my header. Pulling it out the top was easiest for me. I have a friend with an I-6 2005 Lexus IS300 where he had to disassemble his undercar suspensions to pull them, so feel lucky [:
Also, I was able to pull me header out from the top of the car. If the bolts aren't loose, then it might take you a minute, but I've never spent more than 45 minutes bent over to pull out my header. Pulling it out the top was easiest for me. I have a friend with an I-6 2005 Lexus IS300 where he had to disassemble his undercar suspensions to pull them, so feel lucky [:
#24
My car has 113k to the frame, 64k to the motor, and I installed an aftermarket header on my car around 104k to the frame and motor (before the swap), and yeah they were rusty, but honestly I wasn't too worried about snapping bolts. The only issue I had was after about 4k miles on my aftermarket header, my downpipe gasket (no-cat or resonator) blew 2 of the studs completely off. Too much racecar I guess. Anyway, that's the only issue I really had, and just took the remaining bolt to a True Value Hardware store and patched it all up with 2 new bolts and nuts costing ~$5.00 total. After all that and about 10k miles more, my main header gasket finally blew a couple of weeks ago, and I just got a Genuine GM one to go right back. Debating whether to take my header off and line up the gasket and use a drimmel to bore the collectors to 1.65" or not.
Dumb + rotary tool = stupid new thread.
#25
One final question for sure this time haha Before I order the Badmab I just want to know, will there be a noticeable difference? I know it's not gonna be HUGE, but will it be slightly noticeable?