Best of the Best.
#1
Best of the Best.
I'm just curious what everyone thinks the best setup is for a stock 2.4L SS Auto like headers, exaust, air intake, etc...I've been wanting to mod my car for a while, but decided to wait until i had some spare cash saved up. I'd appreciate any suggestions. Thanks.
#4
www.cobalt-addiction.com has everything.
#7
currently im in the process of making my 2.4 auto a beast.
not many people are doing this or have access to HPtuners but me and my buddy are tuning the car. so far im running a injen cai with a tune. so far i have a really good tune on the car and soon i will be puttin bigger injectors in my car with running a AEM wideband and a tranny cooler so the tranny doesnt overheat. then after that my exhaust will be gettin done with a GMPP touring exhaust, C/A 2.5 downpipe, and CA header. then after that suspension. then possibly turbo.
not many people are doing this or have access to HPtuners but me and my buddy are tuning the car. so far im running a injen cai with a tune. so far i have a really good tune on the car and soon i will be puttin bigger injectors in my car with running a AEM wideband and a tranny cooler so the tranny doesnt overheat. then after that my exhaust will be gettin done with a GMPP touring exhaust, C/A 2.5 downpipe, and CA header. then after that suspension. then possibly turbo.
#9
currently im in the process of making my 2.4 auto a beast.
not many people are doing this or have access to HPtuners but me and my buddy are tuning the car. so far im running a injen cai with a tune. so far i have a really good tune on the car and soon i will be puttin bigger injectors in my car with running a AEM wideband and a tranny cooler so the tranny doesnt overheat. then after that my exhaust will be gettin done with a GMPP touring exhaust, C/A 2.5 downpipe, and CA header. then after that suspension. then possibly turbo.
not many people are doing this or have access to HPtuners but me and my buddy are tuning the car. so far im running a injen cai with a tune. so far i have a really good tune on the car and soon i will be puttin bigger injectors in my car with running a AEM wideband and a tranny cooler so the tranny doesnt overheat. then after that my exhaust will be gettin done with a GMPP touring exhaust, C/A 2.5 downpipe, and CA header. then after that suspension. then possibly turbo.
As am I. I currently have an AEM cai, CA header, CA 2.5" de-cat downpipe, which is pretty good, but it'll really gonna kick once I put my 2.0SS/SC injectors on (thanks again Dervin3) and get it all tuned in by Doc next Fri.
#10
If you're looking for a supercharger from GM...don't plan on it.
Only supercharger I can see using on your vehicle would a be a centrifugal supercharger.
#11
No problem man, yeah I bet that thing will be wicked come next friday
#13
Stick with the basics first man. My first 3 mods were Injen CAI, Magnaflow Catback, and Eibach Sportlines. They are probably the most satisfying mods to have on our cars IMO.
#14
Look at my sig. I have full bolt-ons on my 2.4 auto. I ran a 15.35 sec 1/4mile on a wet track (the first time launching a FWD car at a track) - to give you an idea what I/H/E and a tune do. I should break 15 sec on a dry day with a little practice launching.
What's next after bolt-ons? Cams, possibly - PM g5Mike for his results with cams and recommendations. After bolt-ons, I think an ss/sc injector swap w/tune would be a wise investment on a 2.4. That's next for me. I paid $80 for my injectors, but most members are getting them for about $50 (add another $50-$60+ for the harness - search).
Before you ask, my e-rams dyno'd 6whp and 5tq across a broad rpm range (at 12.65v), so you may not find them cost effective. There are lots cheaper ways to make hp (6hp for $600 = $100/hp!). I've since upped the voltage to the e-rams to 14.5v which should double their output (to 12hp est. gain) for another $50 for the battery and charger. This will lower my $/hp to $54/hp which is a little more reasonable, though still a little higher than a turbo system at $4,000/100hp or $40/hp.
If you don't want to spend the $3-$5k it takes to go the turbo/sc route, consider nitrous. For under $1,000 you can get a nice wet n20 system with: window switch, pressure controlled bottle heater, purge, guage, etc. and add 50-75 hp safely (if you spray wisely.) Plus you won't lose the money spent on your intake and header/b-pipe to add it like you will when adding a turbo. A 75 shot should cut about a second off your 1/4 mile time. At $1,000/75hp = $13/hp, it's your cheapest $/hp. This is not considering the cost of the n20 (which adds up at $3/lb) or the fact that it's illegal to use it on the street (it could cost you your car if you get caught "street racing" with n20 in some places.)
If you're a wild man, you could add both f/i and n20.
If you are thinking of n20, most people on the board go with ZEX, as it's a great system. The least expensive, quality n20 setup is by Dyno Tune. I'm thinking of going with them soon. Here's the link. http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idCategory=46
Be safe!
What's next after bolt-ons? Cams, possibly - PM g5Mike for his results with cams and recommendations. After bolt-ons, I think an ss/sc injector swap w/tune would be a wise investment on a 2.4. That's next for me. I paid $80 for my injectors, but most members are getting them for about $50 (add another $50-$60+ for the harness - search).
Before you ask, my e-rams dyno'd 6whp and 5tq across a broad rpm range (at 12.65v), so you may not find them cost effective. There are lots cheaper ways to make hp (6hp for $600 = $100/hp!). I've since upped the voltage to the e-rams to 14.5v which should double their output (to 12hp est. gain) for another $50 for the battery and charger. This will lower my $/hp to $54/hp which is a little more reasonable, though still a little higher than a turbo system at $4,000/100hp or $40/hp.
If you don't want to spend the $3-$5k it takes to go the turbo/sc route, consider nitrous. For under $1,000 you can get a nice wet n20 system with: window switch, pressure controlled bottle heater, purge, guage, etc. and add 50-75 hp safely (if you spray wisely.) Plus you won't lose the money spent on your intake and header/b-pipe to add it like you will when adding a turbo. A 75 shot should cut about a second off your 1/4 mile time. At $1,000/75hp = $13/hp, it's your cheapest $/hp. This is not considering the cost of the n20 (which adds up at $3/lb) or the fact that it's illegal to use it on the street (it could cost you your car if you get caught "street racing" with n20 in some places.)
If you're a wild man, you could add both f/i and n20.
If you are thinking of n20, most people on the board go with ZEX, as it's a great system. The least expensive, quality n20 setup is by Dyno Tune. I'm thinking of going with them soon. Here's the link. http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idCategory=46
Be safe!
#15
It's not as much work as some people may think. The biggest thing is the know how and understanding of them. Most people are just plain intimidated by them because they are "somewhat" complex but they aren't that complex where you have to be a rocket scientist to understand how they work.
If you're looking for a supercharger from GM...don't plan on it.
Only supercharger I can see using on your vehicle would a be a centrifugal supercharger.
If you're looking for a supercharger from GM...don't plan on it.
Only supercharger I can see using on your vehicle would a be a centrifugal supercharger.
#17
Once I get my SS/SC injectors in and get it tuned via HP tuners by Doc, i'm calling it a day on my engine mods. I'm just gonna finish off my suspension and probally call it quits there. Gotta save up for a house someday ya know?
#19
FYI: They use a non intercooled M45 Supercharger on the 2.4 Twin Cam engines.
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