yeah, my gauge wont read any boost at all now even though i can hear the turbo spooling and blowing off but i try to stay off boost. When acceling the vacuum level just increases instead of going to 0 like normal.

 

But he did blow the welds on his intake!

 

ok, i'm going to be as nice as i can here...

ARE YOU RETARDED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

golden rule #3 of having a turbo car, if **** on the outlet side of the compressor has major leaks, blows apart, ect YOU STOP DRIVING THE GOD DAM CAR.

i hope you like paying for a turbo rebuild, your on the fast track to needing one.

run a compressor unloaded and shaft speed goes thru the ****** roof, POP goes the turbo.

 

man welds on plastic!!! hell must be freezing over!!

tats what i thought....

 

if its failing at the gasket, pull that bitch off and load up the grooves in the plastic flange with RTV. some red RTV would be 10X stronger than the lame little gasket on the manifold.

if its the intake manifold itself thats leaking, I've got two sitting around.. pm me.

 

would the RTV silicone be safe on the manifold and engine. i heard that silicone can damage some metals.

i know its not good to drive it. I just had to because it needed driven home from the shop.

 

drive it as little as possible, it'll save you much time, money, and worry later.

 

aluminium head, plastic intake.. it should be fine. The reason for not using RTV is the mess you have to clean on a soft aluminium surface that likes to scratch. just use something that wont etch alum and you'll be fine.

Just don't cheap out, use ALOT, give it time to dry before you test.

 

so haw hard is it gonna be the remove the manifold and change the stuff out? Very time consuming? Just trying to see if its worth it to pay someone or if a novice like me would be able to safely pull it off.

 

very easy....just removing the manifold...a bunch of bolts and maybe the throttle body if its in the way of anything

 

so i just get a new gasket and throw it on there? Any tq specs to follow? Any dmage indications i should be looking for incase its not the gasket? I wanna try just the gasket before i add the silicone stuff and see if this was a just freak failure that wont happen again under these power levels.

 

dear god man, you MUST be a check book mechanic here...

all that work done on your car and you cant complete simple ****...

is it the gasket or the manifold?

you have said over and over again that the manifold popped...if thats true...why are you replacing the gasket?

if it was just the gasket...pop the manifold off by removing the few VARY visible bolts and studs, replace the gasket and tighten that bitch down.

your torque specs are....."grut tight"

simple.

 

I think its the gasket because the choke cleaner that was sprayed sucked right thru the top of the manifold. Other than that i can see any damage to the plastic anywhere.

 

well the gasket is a MLS piece....its the same across the ECO line iirc...if its blown, you definitely see it.

carb/choke cleaner has tons of ethyl in it, thus it evaporates wicked fast...so it "sucking in" is hard to believe to a point.

none the less, if your sure your not boost leaking via some where in the charge pipe(my bet) then pull the manifold....

if the gasket is intact....then you obviously have your answer as to what went bad.

 

 

i had a shop look for a boost leak and all the testing came up clear. check BOV, all the charge piping, intercooler, fmu, turbo, exhaust manifold, maf sensor, and the intake manifold seemed fine at that point but then it started hissing at the end of the dyno session. musta been on the last 2 pulss cuz it was fine all day. Yeah we sprayed the injectors because that was the 1st thing we thought since i had just installed the 60's but the choke cleaner just puddled up around the injectors but when sprayed on the manifold at the connecting point to the head it sucked right down into the crevice.

So this is a one piece gasket that i can get from the dealer for a couple bucks right? i saw it online for $3 something so i hope the dealer doesnt charge too much more for the part. I wanna try to install the new gasket tomorrow if i can get the part.

 

i'd pick up the SS/SC gasket if i was you...there like $10 BUT i know for a fact that they are a tough MLS piece...good to lots-o-boost.

 

my 2.2 is running 10 lbs of boost on the same turbo and i turned 239whp 249wtq. my manifold is worse then yours and its holding fine.

 

a couple 10mm bolts and 2 10mm nuts. very easy. just mark or memorize your wire hookups..

sorry.. ^^^ brain lag.

wont help... the 2.4 manifold flange is not solid like the lsj, in fact adding the lsj's gasket would introduce more failure points.


i really think your best bet is alot of RTV... now that you see what your dealing with, load up all those grooves with it and sit it back on..

your pushing the manifold far beyond what its designed to do, failure is never a boolean operation.
(in otherwords, it never works like this: 19psig is fine. 19.9 psig is okay. but your flloorboards fall out at 20psig)

 

you fail

 

thanks for the help. i ordered the new stock gasket and im gonna attempt to install it this afternoon and see if the problem is solved or if i have bigger issues.

Is that picture above a pic of the lsj manifold? I just wanna make sure cuz i only ordered 1 gasket and that pic is 4 seperate gaskets.

 

(fail buzzer rings)

the flange is quite solid, as one can see the molded cross-hatch reinforcement.

the bolt pattern across the car's is identical, and with both the 2.4 and LSJ manifold being a solid piece (we not dealing with a flexible material in any case) the MLS gasket will hold up superior to any organic or fabric gasket you may have in mind.

RTV would be a worst case idea at best.

i have much experience with cars that run the 2.4L eco. Boosted, NA, N20, ect...the manifold holds just peachy well past 11-12psi. if the gasket goes, jump to an MLS piece....same process as you do when replacing / upgrading head gaskets.

when tightened down the manifold would put fairly even pressure across the gasket, thus sealing it and holding things together quite nice.

the rubber seals that are internal to the manifold will only aid the situation.

this manifold is made of the same material and design as the SIDI engines that come boosted out of the factory at 18-21psi.

 

so if i go to the parts dept. and ask for the LSJ intake manifold gasket, that will fit right on mine with no problem? I wanna go pick up the part by 2pm today and i have them holding my LE5 gasket now.

just spoke with the dealer and they say there should be no way the LSJ and LE5 gaskets could be interchanged.

 

I don't it would be even close, even though they are bolted the same, the gaskets are way different.

 

They mentioned the bolt pattern being different actually because they went and got a 2.4 manifold off the shelf and layed the lsj gasket on it and said it wouldnt bolt up right. I need to buy the 4 seperate le5 gaskets they said. the 1 piece lsj gasket wont work.