How many cam sensors do these cars have and where is it located? If my memory proves me right, it's located by the cams correct? On the driver side? Why is it giving me a cam sensor connection error? What can I do to correct this issue that says its the connection and not the sensor itself? It's giving me a check engine light and I would like it corrected before I have to do my inspection. Thank you guys!

 

who needs this crap anywyas

 

If you have an 05-7 its located on the rear of the camshaft by the fuse box. Generally I find that error if the connector is broken or the sensor is out of alignment when it has been removed and replaced. If its out of alignment the car will be hard to start and take a few tries to get running.

Not sure what the details are, and why you have that code. good luck with the problem.

 

What code are you throwing? I had to replace my camshaft actuator solenoids at around 40k, I had codes P0010 and P0011. You may be having the same problem, I'm not sure. But the cam actuator solenoids are a very easy fix, they're just the two sensors coming out of the top of the valve cover on the passenger side. I just swapped the two for new ones and the problem was fixed.

 

It says Cam/crank correlation, right? That means the timing is off, either due to a bad/loose sensor or actual mechanical problem. The cam position sensors are on the back of the motor over the trans, by the valve cover. They are fairly simple to change out, figure out which one the code is for (intake or exhaust) and change it out, see if it goes away.

Car starts and runs normally still right?

 

I'll get back to you on the code...i've lost the sheet with the codes.

 

The code is: P0013- camshaft position sensor has detected and open or short circuit; P0106 - map sensor vaccum hose off, crack or pressure block. Now I just changed the map sensor last week...brand new from AZ. Why is it still giving me this error? But I would like someone to help me make sense of these error codes as I have cleared them and got these back especially after I changed the map sensor.

 

sounds like the magnetic pickup is shot, just remove the 10mm bolt holding it in and replace it, sensors are fairly cheap

 

Magnetic pickup to what? If you're talking about the MAP sensor then like I mentioned, I just changed that last week because it was throwing out the code before I installed a new one. The cam sensor I would like to know also how to rectify this.

 

What do y'all think?

 

Can anyone tell me what a magnetic pickup is?

 

when you need a signal or reference voltage keyed to something that rotates - wheel bearing, camshaft, crankshaft, and you have a computer to read it - ecu ebcm (engine computer, brake computer) a "hall effect" magnetic pickup sensor is used. When you place a magnet close to a rotating toothed wheel , the magnet gets excited and produces a low voltage (.7 v or less) and that signal is used by the ecu/ebcm as a reference signal.

the magnet pickup is just that.

Wiki says:
The Hall effect is the production of a voltage difference (the Hall voltage) across an electrical conductor, transverse to an electric current in the conductor and a magnetic field perpendicular to the current. It was discovered by Edwin Hall in 1879.[1]

The Hall coefficient is defined as the ratio of the induced electric field to the product of the current density and the applied magnetic field. It is a characteristic of the material from which the conductor is made, since its value depends on the type, number, and properties of the charge carriers that constitute the current


Google says there is a Columbian band called Hall Effect, so dont get confused lol

 

Lol...i'm not. I'm just trying to make sense of what Lsjion is stating because I just changed the map sensor and he's saying to change it. But not only that...I'm getting codes for cam sensor connection also.

 

sorry, the magentic pickup im referring to ism the actual sensor for the cam sensor, inside there is a wheel of sorts with a missing chunk, when the wheel spins and the gap passes it, the magnetic field is broken, telling the ecm where the cam is at in its rotation. That signal tells the ecm when to fire the desired fuel injector and starts the process of order, then again, and so on. When that magnet wears out, the field isnt strong enough to give a signal, and the ecm must "batch fire" the injectors, since it has no idea when to start. This hurts performance and fuel economy. The magnet slides into the cam sensor housing where the wheel is, DO NOT remove the housing to change the sensor, otherwise you will need to time the hex in the housing to the camshaft.

Hope this helps you out.


btw sensors like this and wheels speed sensors are referred to as mpg magnetic pulse generators, they create their own voltage.

 

I replaced my camshaft sensors like 3 weeks ago. They are the passenger side of the valve cover, its to little connectors, one on the exhaust side and one on the intake side. They take no more than five minutes to replace and cost about $35/each. You can get them from gmpartsdirect.com, part numers are 12646783 & 12628348, and all you is a 10mm socket to remove the bolts in the valve cover.

 

So I take it's two cam sensors...correct? That what it sounds like to me but correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Yes the intake and exhaust cam each have one. Better replace both and play it safe.

 

This really helped me out Lsjion but what does that last sentence mean? I had it up to that point and you really took me for a loop...

Cool...thanks Marc!

 

Haha Nevermind, it's on of those technical things. I tend to forget most people don't know such things.

 

Stay posted. I'll yell you what comes of me changing out the cam sensors.

 

But now that I got some answers on the cams...what do y'all have to say about still getting codes from the map sensor after changing it out?

 

What codes is the MAP throwing? Did you pull the negative battery terminal to ensure the pcm resets. I still was throwing codes until i disconnected the battery and haven't thrown one since.

 

The code is in post #7 and I did that but it still came on.

 

Are both codes coming up or is it just one of the two? If just one of them, which one? The MAP vaccuum hose is the little rubber one thats connected to the intake, there are a clamp on each side, if you remove both of them and send compressed air through the hose once its off the car that may fix it. Some times and carbon can clog it and cause that code.

 

It's both thats coming up.