Yeah, it's going to delay my build even longer. I don't see getting this done by the end of the month. oh well.

 

This. I can't believe how much a TVS is. If I want more power, I will definitely go turbo.

 

Here's the dual pod I was talking about.





I'm thinking like $20?

 

Is it for a coupe or sedan?

And I wasn't able to get pics for the dual pass but I'll write up instructions and get you a link to the fitting I used, 1 sec

 

For coupe I believe. It came out of pk91's cobalt when we swapped parts. Gauges seemed to fit snug and happy in it. I went for ZZP's triple so I could run my Interceptor, Boost and AFR gauge all together.

 

Maybe I'll see if any junkyards will let me rummage for parts. Or hit up Mongo for the parts.

I'll need the LSJ alt, belt tensioner and idler pulley correct?

 

well you said 290hp or whatever

 

DISCLAIMER: I am not liable for what YOU do to YOUR car! This walkthrough is for, and only for, the fitting shown below.
The fitting! From frozenboost.com

Liquid to air fittings


Okay so first step is remove blower.
Second, take off the intake manifold.
Remove your endplate from the side of the intake manifold (Seven 10mm bolts)

If you've never had it off before it will take a little force but it will come off. Be prepared to pull the funny looking O-ring out with it.

PLEASE: Do NOT do what I did! O-ring fell out and I was like "ooh, STRETCH!" Don't do that. Leave it how it is unless you plan on paying 60 bucks for a piece of rubber.

So once you pull the endplate off you'll have the 4 laminova cores exposed. It should look like this:


To pull these laminova cores out, do not use anything hard against the core itself. You'll damage it for sure. My cores pulled out with my fingernails. For those who can't get them out this way. Use a rag or towel, grab the core and pull and twist at the same time. I've also done it this way and it works. Go from the previous picture to this:



Once you've got the cores arranged as shown, you're ready to move on to your endplate. You're going to want to drill as far forward on the top bump as you can. Not doing this will more than likely result in clearance issues with the oil filter canister. For this step I used a hammer and center punch to mark where I want to start drilling. Here's a pic: (ms paint lol) Just don't hit the punch too hard. Remember this is cast aluminum!



This process takes THREE DRILL BITS! The first two doesn't matter what size as long as you're stepping up the sizes each time you drill. For the first time use a smaller sized bit. Drill the hole right where you made your punch mark. Step up a few sizes to a larger drill bit. These two bits obviously must be smaller than 1/2" Once you get the second hole drilled, it's time for the final drill. This drill size is the one that matters. Find a 45/64" drill bit and drill the hole out. There! Now we've ruined a perfectly good endplate. but have no fear, the thread tap is here! Using a 1/2" 14 NPT (Natural Pipe Thread) tap, tap the hole you've just drilled until you're 3/4's up the tap. DO NOT go further. Remember we want a snug fitting, not a loose one that will roll around inside the threads. Some lubricant here helps. I just used 3 in 1 oil. I'm sorry I don't have pics of this process. Before you tap the fitting in, use some thread sealer or at the very least some teflon tape. If you tapped it correctly there should still be 2-3 threads of the fitting sticking out until you can't tighten the fitting down any more. You don't want the fitting flush to the surface of the endplate. Why? It will leak. Maybe not right off the bat, but it will. It's common practice to leave a few threads out.



And you're done! If you really want, use some quiksteel around the base of the fitting for some extra leak prevention. Put your endplate back on and tighten down your bolts to 89 inch pounds. Throw your intake manifold back on, plumb the dual pass and BAM! Dual pass complete!

 

You'll need the LSJ tensioner and alternator bracket assembly and the LSJ idler. The idler you can get from almost any parts store for under 30 bucks. The tensioner and alternator bracket, I'm still looking for those lol

 

So I won't need to actual alternator, just it's mounting bracket? For the idler, is it just a pulley bolted in on the crank case?

 

Nah out stock LE5 alternator will last quite a while even though its spinning backwards now. The idler goes where our stock tensioner is now. And the new tensioner goes where your current idler is. The tensioner mounts to the alternator bracket. So you will need both the tensioner and the bracket, and 2 longer bolts to bolt your alternator back on. As for the idler, The idler looks very similiar to our stock tensioner. As far as I know we take the stock tensioner off and replace it with this idler.

Oh and let me know what you guys think of the dual pass write up. It took my longer than I thought, I figured I might as well go all out and see if I can get it posted in the How-To section...

 

If you compare pictures of the LSJ belt set up vs the LE5, you'll notice that the LSJ alternator spins the other direction. If you're using all the LSJ belt stuff, it will turn your stock alternator backwards, and it won't charge your battery.

 

Alright so, need to get the tensioner, idler pulley and whatever bracket and hardware that goes with the alternator?

I thought with alternators it didn't matter which direction they spun? Am I wrong?

 

No you're not wrong, the LE5 alternator will work. It will wear out faster, but it will work. I've read all over the forum that this is a fact. Actually since you're already running the same belt routing as the LSJ setup, you've been running your alternator backwards! It won't hurt anything.

 

Well i just googled it, and and I was wrong. In most cases you can spin the alternator backwards. It makes AC power so it doesn't care which way the power flows. I guess I used an LSJ alternator for nothing then...

 

I need to find some pictures of this bracket thingamajig then so I know what the hell were talking about.

 

Not for nothing. You can spin the alternator backwards on the LE5 but it's not going to last long, maybe a year or 2 if you're lucky.

MOUNT BRACKET for 2007 Chevrolet Cobalt (12584365) : OEM Chevrolet Parts

 

Are those the bolts I'll need with the bracket? If so I'll order the hardware, and shop around for a used bracket. $72 is kinda steep for a chunk of aluminum.

 

Yes, those are the correct bolts. And to be honest that's actually the cheapest I've found so far. Unless you can get one used from someone here...

 

Write up was good and easy to follow. I'm somewhat of a grammar **** so don't listen to me when I said you should clean up some of the wording lol. Add a couple more pictures and it should be golden for a thread in the how to section.

Alright then perhaps I'll order bolts and bracket. I bet Mongo has a decent tensioner and idler for me.

 

I'm also pretty buzzed so that probably doesn't help my wording and punctuation at all.LOL I already submitted it to the how-to board. I'll look it over again in the morning and see what I need to fix. Hopefully it works for you if you try it

 

Gm charges more for plastic not sure where you're surprised here lol.

You can use same alternator. Might went out in like 10ish months though so I swapped to lsj

 

Intercooler pump installed, option b will be here tomorrow. Finally can get all the plumbing done and put the front bumper and headlights and everything back together.

Waiting on:
Boost Gauge
Wideband
LSJ Belt Stuff
Pigtail + Map Sensor

 

I have a extra boost gauge... :O lol

 

Why did you say the car wouldn't see the road until spring '14? If I were you I would have just gathered everything I needed and did the swap in a weekend.