Chicky's "Girl-Powered" 2.4 S/C'd Adventures
01-10-2014, 08:19 PM
#76
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I was told nothing but good things about dual pass + option B. Hence why I am going with it asap. Manifold is off for the build already anyway so win/win.
I don't currently have an extra h/e but it's definitely on the "down the road" list.
Well then what DO you recommend for pulling them out? lol
I don't currently have an extra h/e but it's definitely on the "down the road" list.
Well then what DO you recommend for pulling them out? lol
My recommendation is be patient, the extra cooling space for the heat exchanger is good if your going to be hitting a 2.9 pulley and on. I've heard you can baby as low as a 2.8 without the dual pass or an extra heat exchanger, but it's a certainty that it'd become a problem using it more than something like a NOS button.
Easiest thing about the cores is after you get the first one out then it's not so nerve wracking the 2nd one. Just try not to use to much force and you can use metal, but I highly discourage it. With that also make sure you keep the cores from being stepped on, that was part two of a bad day for the friend I watched this happening too, he pretty much bought all new cores. They're kinda like the radiator where the fins can get jacked up if your not careful, so I would just set them aside somewhere they'll be safe. They're not impossible to remove, just fiesty.
01-10-2014, 09:36 PM
#77
For the core removal:
Don't just try to pull them out. Grab them and twist them, once they turn a little it loosens up the seal that the inner o-ring has on them and they pull out pretty easy.
If you look at the outer ring of the core, where all the small passages are, there are two that are solid. This is the strongest place to grab across with your pliers.
Take an old belt or piece of heater hose and cut a small rubber strip to fit inside of your pliers around the core. Squeeze them as lightly as possible while still turning them. Once you get that initial movement, they will come out with no drama.
It's not hard to do if you are careful and apply a little common sense. After you get one out and have a feel for it you will be able to pull the other ones very easily.
Since i'm going into this long explanation, while you are in there do it right. Pull all 4 cores, clean the manifold down very well (the bottom will be chock full of oil), re-seat all the o-rings and washers properly and "clock" the cores back into position when you install. That means line up the larger gaps in the fins with the air passages in the manifold. They are not aligned from factory and this small step makes a difference in efficiency and we need all we can get out of this manifold setup.
Advanced users:
If you have any experience with porting, I strongly suggest a quick gasket match on the flange of the manifold. The old gasket will have left a ring on there indicating where you can open it up to, and there's very little material to remove as the ports open right up into the manifold so you are only taking down about 3/8" of material length.
Don't just try to pull them out. Grab them and twist them, once they turn a little it loosens up the seal that the inner o-ring has on them and they pull out pretty easy.
If you look at the outer ring of the core, where all the small passages are, there are two that are solid. This is the strongest place to grab across with your pliers.
Take an old belt or piece of heater hose and cut a small rubber strip to fit inside of your pliers around the core. Squeeze them as lightly as possible while still turning them. Once you get that initial movement, they will come out with no drama.
It's not hard to do if you are careful and apply a little common sense. After you get one out and have a feel for it you will be able to pull the other ones very easily.
Since i'm going into this long explanation, while you are in there do it right. Pull all 4 cores, clean the manifold down very well (the bottom will be chock full of oil), re-seat all the o-rings and washers properly and "clock" the cores back into position when you install. That means line up the larger gaps in the fins with the air passages in the manifold. They are not aligned from factory and this small step makes a difference in efficiency and we need all we can get out of this manifold setup.
Advanced users:
If you have any experience with porting, I strongly suggest a quick gasket match on the flange of the manifold. The old gasket will have left a ring on there indicating where you can open it up to, and there's very little material to remove as the ports open right up into the manifold so you are only taking down about 3/8" of material length.
01-10-2014, 10:55 PM
#78
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^^^ good info on the core removals. I'm going to be doing my M62 install in a few months.
here's a couple of good reads, granted they are both for the L61 Cavalier, but a lot of the info pertains to the Cobalt, with the exception of the throttle body stuff and a few other things, you should be able to figure it out though.
The Ultimate M62 Guide - Boost Forum - j-body.org - The J-Body Organization
post #14 on page 1 of this thread has the actual GM instructions for the M62 install, with lots of pictures and part numbers.
GM Supercharger Build Book | Z22SE.co.uk
hope this helps
here's a couple of good reads, granted they are both for the L61 Cavalier, but a lot of the info pertains to the Cobalt, with the exception of the throttle body stuff and a few other things, you should be able to figure it out though.
The Ultimate M62 Guide - Boost Forum - j-body.org - The J-Body Organization
post #14 on page 1 of this thread has the actual GM instructions for the M62 install, with lots of pictures and part numbers.
GM Supercharger Build Book | Z22SE.co.uk
hope this helps
01-10-2014, 10:58 PM
#79
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^^^ good info on the core removals. I'm going to be doing my M62 install in a few months.
here's a couple of good reads, granted they are both for the L61 Cavalier, but a lot of the info pertains to the Cobalt, with the exception of the throttle body stuff and a few other things, you should be able to figure it out though.
The Ultimate M62 Guide - Boost Forum - j-body.org - The J-Body Organization
post #14 on page 1 of this thread has the actual GM instructions for the M62 install, with lots of pictures and part numbers.
GM Supercharger Build Book | Z22SE.co.uk
hope this helps
here's a couple of good reads, granted they are both for the L61 Cavalier, but a lot of the info pertains to the Cobalt, with the exception of the throttle body stuff and a few other things, you should be able to figure it out though.
The Ultimate M62 Guide - Boost Forum - j-body.org - The J-Body Organization
post #14 on page 1 of this thread has the actual GM instructions for the M62 install, with lots of pictures and part numbers.
GM Supercharger Build Book | Z22SE.co.uk
hope this helps
01-12-2014, 03:47 PM
#82
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And my luck, or lack thereof manages to continue....
Opened the package containing the radiator fan assembly I went and picked up from LKQ on Friday, only to find out that, sure enough, IT'S THE WRONG ONE! >.<
Annnnnd of course, it's Sunday, so they're closed. Guess I'll be calling and raising hell tomorrow until they make it right. GRRR!!!!
Oh and on top of that, I wanted to get SOME work done on the car today since the rain letup and the sun is shining. Went to remove the MASSIVE bolt holding on the stock tensioner pulley and discovered that it's a 20mm(?). Just a wee bit larger than the biggest socket I have (19mm). So I'm off to the Tool Depot, if they're open today, to see about getting the socket needed to get the job done.
Man, I can't wait til all this tediousness and hard work pays off finally.
Opened the package containing the radiator fan assembly I went and picked up from LKQ on Friday, only to find out that, sure enough, IT'S THE WRONG ONE! >.<
Annnnnd of course, it's Sunday, so they're closed. Guess I'll be calling and raising hell tomorrow until they make it right. GRRR!!!!
Oh and on top of that, I wanted to get SOME work done on the car today since the rain letup and the sun is shining. Went to remove the MASSIVE bolt holding on the stock tensioner pulley and discovered that it's a 20mm(?). Just a wee bit larger than the biggest socket I have (19mm). So I'm off to the Tool Depot, if they're open today, to see about getting the socket needed to get the job done.
Man, I can't wait til all this tediousness and hard work pays off finally.
01-12-2014, 05:12 PM
#84
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Good to know that I can fill in the blanks for someone as to what to expect with this build. I am taking every precaution to make sure it's done right the FIRST time and doing my best to pace myself and not rush things along. I'm already a very proud Cobalt owner, even with NO modifications. I can only imagine how proud I'll be once I can slap that "Girl-Powered" sticker across my back window. 
01-12-2014, 06:55 PM
#88
For the core removal:
Don't just try to pull them out. Grab them and twist them, once they turn a little it loosens up the seal that the inner o-ring has on them and they pull out pretty easy.
If you look at the outer ring of the core, where all the small passages are, there are two that are solid. This is the strongest place to grab across with your pliers.
Take an old belt or piece of heater hose and cut a small rubber strip to fit inside of your pliers around the core. Squeeze them as lightly as possible while still turning them. Once you get that initial movement, they will come out with no drama.
It's not hard to do if you are careful and apply a little common sense. After you get one out and have a feel for it you will be able to pull the other ones very easily.
S.
Don't just try to pull them out. Grab them and twist them, once they turn a little it loosens up the seal that the inner o-ring has on them and they pull out pretty easy.
If you look at the outer ring of the core, where all the small passages are, there are two that are solid. This is the strongest place to grab across with your pliers.
Take an old belt or piece of heater hose and cut a small rubber strip to fit inside of your pliers around the core. Squeeze them as lightly as possible while still turning them. Once you get that initial movement, they will come out with no drama.
It's not hard to do if you are careful and apply a little common sense. After you get one out and have a feel for it you will be able to pull the other ones very easily.
S.
But for the blank end I use a straight pick in the center. I warm the entire IM if its cold in hot water first. The press and twist. Once the core rotates its realtively easy to draw it out. And putting it back, again Joe is right large core slot in line with the laminova slot.
For the large end I use a 3/8 extension with a plastic hose sleeve and put that right inside the core. same thing press, rotated and withdraw.
Clean it all out, pay attention to the PCV valve which will be coked up, and get all the oil out of the inlet runners. Air dry the cores and then reassemble.
NOTE if the core seals stay inside the IM, get them out with a long hooked radiator hose pick. Then assemble large washer small washer o ring on the core. Always assemble the cores back in the IM with the o rings on the core, not the other way round you risk not seating the o ring properly.
do it wrong it will be bad for you.
dont forget the lower bolt on the IM removing it. Do disconnect the battery and remove the alternator if its your first time. Long way is the better way.
01-12-2014, 07:10 PM
#90
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Hey now, there was no bugging involved on my part. Only simply left a PM wondering when I needed to send the funds for the kit. Was not expecting any kind of "on the fly" response, just a response at one's earliest convenience. I understand people, especially vendors, have lives outside of these forums and therefore would NEVER require someone to get back to me unless it was within their convenience. This being said, I apologize for the cancel of order but don't consider it necessary to be put on "blast", particularly in my own build thread. You can't blame someone for deciding to buy a next-to-new kit, including the same parts/pieces as the one being offered, for almost HALF the price. It is of no offense to the vendor for making this decision, just simply a financially more sound route for someone who is putting together a build with every possible precaution considered and dispersing of available funds for said project in a wise and timely manner. THANK YOU again very very much for taking the time to write up detailed instruction on how to do the Option B install. I'm sure it will come as helpful to not only me, but anyone who stumbles upon this thread in the future and sees it as a surprising piece of needed information to get the best possible results from your S/C upgrade. Hopefully you will find peace in knowing that you HELPED and are APPRECIATED whether you make $ off the deal or not.
Not just removing the belt, removing the whole assembly to replace with LSJ idler pulley. Unless I am mistaken in my information.
Not just removing the belt, removing the whole assembly to replace with LSJ idler pulley. Unless I am mistaken in my information.
Last edited by CobaltChicky88; 01-12-2014 at 07:10 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
01-12-2014, 07:20 PM
#91
Hey now, there was no bugging involved on my part. Only simply left a PM wondering when I needed to send the funds for the kit. Was not expecting any kind of "on the fly" response, just a response at one's earliest convenience. I understand people, especially vendors, have lives outside of these forums and therefore would NEVER require someone to get back to me unless it was within their convenience. This being said, I apologize for the cancel of order but don't consider it necessary to be put on "blast", particularly in my own build thread. You can't blame someone for deciding to buy a next-to-new kit, including the same parts/pieces as the one being offered, for almost HALF the price. It is of no offense to the vendor for making this decision, just simply a financially more sound route for someone who is putting together a build with every possible precaution considered and dispersing of available funds for said project in a wise and timely manner. THANK YOU again very very much for taking the time to write up detailed instruction on how to do the Option B install. I'm sure it will come as helpful to not only me, but anyone who stumbles upon this thread in the future and sees it as a surprising piece of needed information to get the best possible results from your S/C upgrade. Hopefully you will find peace in knowing that you HELPED and are APPRECIATED whether you make $ off the deal or not.
Not just removing the belt, removing the whole assembly to replace with LSJ idler pulley. Unless I am mistaken in my information.
Not just removing the belt, removing the whole assembly to replace with LSJ idler pulley. Unless I am mistaken in my information.
long story not so long you emailed gloria at 10 .30 pm Friday night and then PM 'd me here today, Sunday asking why she has not replied to you.
Unless you are buying my parts used, you are not getting what I make. I dont care, I help people regardless of what they buy from me. I am reacting to your impatience which was not justified, and you have gone from impatience sunday afternoon to saying " oh I dont need it anymore" sunday evening.
Frankly I dont have a clue what you are doing now with your idler pulley. Good luck with your install, and no problem I hope the pictures and suggestions I sent you help you out.
01-12-2014, 07:29 PM
#92
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long story not so long you emailed gloria at 10 .30 pm Friday night and then PM 'd me here today, Sunday asking why she has not replied to you.
Unless you are buying my parts used, you are not getting what I make. I dont care, I help people regardless of what they buy from me. I am reacting to your impatience which was not justified, and you have gone from impatience sunday afternoon to saying " oh I dont need it anymore" sunday evening.
Frankly I dont have a clue what you are doing now with your idler pulley. Good luck with your install, and no problem I hope the pictures and suggestions I sent you help you out.
Unless you are buying my parts used, you are not getting what I make. I dont care, I help people regardless of what they buy from me. I am reacting to your impatience which was not justified, and you have gone from impatience sunday afternoon to saying " oh I dont need it anymore" sunday evening.
Frankly I dont have a clue what you are doing now with your idler pulley. Good luck with your install, and no problem I hope the pictures and suggestions I sent you help you out.
Honestly, I'm beginning to wonder why I even wasted my time typing this. Maybe I just see this as an immature way for a vendor to handle a cancel of sale. ****, I've had sellers on eBay do things they didn't necessarily have to do according to eBay policy to help me out with mistakes before and didn't give up this much fuss.
01-14-2014, 09:11 PM
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So, unfortunately no updates on any build progress :-/ BUT, I did however order in a replacement (proper) radiator fan assembly from LKQ which ended up actually being CHEAPER than the original and comes with lifetime warrantly 
Gotta love that. Got a friend of mine to ship me an Option B kit brand new that he never used and a next-to-new OTTP FMHE. Found an amazing deal on FE5 struts/shocks from a Staged07SS and those should be here end of this week, early next. Damn near done with my comprised parts list and ready to put some distance between me and my stock Tank.
Gotta love that. Got a friend of mine to ship me an Option B kit brand new that he never used and a next-to-new OTTP FMHE. Found an amazing deal on FE5 struts/shocks from a Staged07SS and those should be here end of this week, early next. Damn near done with my comprised parts list and ready to put some distance between me and my stock Tank.
01-16-2014, 01:46 PM
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[QUOTE="bmxracerchamp12;7249942"]did you ever find injectors? i have a set of ev6 60's in my car now i would sell. im going e85 and turbo so the s/c will be getting pulled in a week or so[/QUOTE
Yea I have #42s already installed. Thanks though!
Yea I have #42s already installed. Thanks though!
