ThexGovenor

iTrader: (2)

http://s3.amazonaws.com/zzpstorage/i...al+pass+IC.pdf

Did the dual pass also come with one? This diagram should help.

CobaltChicky88

iTrader: (6)

No, what you see in the picture is all I have. Just looking to find out what I need to pick up from the store to attempt to finish this install. And yes! That diagram helps out much more than the one identical to it that I was using, but BLACK&WHITE! Horrible.

CobaltChicky88

iTrader: (6)

Wait wait wait... gimme til tomorrow. I think I got this fingered out. Stay tuned!

ThexGovenor

iTrader: (2)

Glad I could help! Keep us posted

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

She got just the plate from me. If it's just a plain option B kit, you will need to source the extra 3/4" hose T and a little more hose + clamps locally. Any auto parts store can help you there.

ThexGovenor

iTrader: (2)

Ahhh ok, yeah she needs at least another T fitting.

Pitbull2o08

iTrader: (2)

So this how to is with the dual pass end plate and option b?

ThexGovenor

iTrader: (2)

Yes, look at the color diagram about half way down the page. It shows how it should be routed. The key is to make sure there arent kinks in the hose and the hose leading to the Option B tank doesnt dip down. Correct me if Im wrong OG members.

CobaltChicky88

iTrader: (6)

Option B and dual pass near finished just awaiting more hose clamps and a 'T' connector to be completely done. Contemplating my next move with this install and I'm thinking the LSJ h/e and OTTP FMIC are going to be next. Dreading the point where I get to wiring the intercooler pump, MAP sensor, and throttle body. I am NOT a big fan of anything electrical and therefore don't much trust myself to do it right the first time unless given "dummy" instructions. Plus, I never learned to solder so there's that lol. Thinking I might have to proposition anyone local that has time to come help me get this done as I'm hoping to have my car up and running in the next week, tops.

bmxracerchamp12

iTrader: (5)

thats all easy stuff. map wont get touched and its only a 2 wire swap for the tb unless you bought the zzp harness for it. i can look at my pump later and tell you which pin is the hot side

CobaltChicky88

iTrader: (6)

Well I have the LSJ bar map sensor that I assume will replace the LE5 stock maf sensor so I'm a little confused on that. The throttle body needs wires "switched since I'm going from stock to LSJ as well with that, and the IC pump wires are only 6 inches long so I'll be needing to solder in extensions that (I believe) will be wired to the fuse box? See. This is something that I KNOW should be done right the first time and I just don't feel confident enough to attempt it, specially when I can't solder it up nice and clean either.

On another note: I'm still going over all the collected information about the setup of LSJ H/E w/ the OTTP FMIC addition to my LE5 rad+fan. Not sure which way would be easiest to go with this but that's going to be the next thing I attempt while I wait on someone to help with wiring.

bmxracerchamp12

iTrader: (5)

just plug the new map in. no rewiring needed. now zzp offers a harness that will take care of the rewire so you dont have to. if not i think i have the wiring at home somewhere. pump is pretty easy. i put an add-a-fuse on the fuel injector fuse. then just run a wire to the pump. i grounded the pump to the ground stud on the front crash bar

CobaltChicky88

iTrader: (6)

Wow thanks yea that should help a lot.

bmxracerchamp12

iTrader: (5)

pump has to be wired properly. ill let you know which wire is the hot side so it doesnt run backwards. i just need to get home and brush the snow off

qwank

you cant just plug the LSJ map in, the connector is different since the LSJ has an IAT sensor in it also.

You need the LSJ map sensor connector and then you need to cut the IAT sensors from the LE5 MAF connector and wire them into the LSJ map, and cut the LE5 MAP sensor and also wire it into the LSJ MAP connector. those threads I linked a few pages back explain and have the wiring diagram in one of them.

bmxracerchamp12

iTrader: (5)

really dont need to. iat's is just a luxury lol

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

The I/C pump is marked '+' & '-', so that's pretty simple.

CobaltChicky88

iTrader: (6)

I don't see these anywhere but one wire is black. One is black with white stripe.

Jacob4ta

iTrader: (1)

For a car that doesn't know what an intercooler pump is, I'd said monitoring IATs is mandatory. It's the only way to know if it's even working or not.

I'm sure you'd hate to drive around boosting hot air and risk hurting your engine.

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

Not on the wires but on the body of the pump itself? Maybe i'm thinking of something else.

Pitbull2o08

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, IAT's are not a luxury.

Verbatim

iTrader: (1)

you NEED to see IAT2s; Only a fool would choose to save 20min instead of doing it properly
Wiring is very simple, just sit down and take a look, and if it helps, draw it out on a piece of paper

Take a look at hunterkillrs thread on his swap.

Im 90% sure the BLK/WHT is the 12v side on the pump

Get an add a fuse, place it in the fuel pump fuse, and run the wire to the pump, ground the pump to frame or engine

bmxracerchamp12

iTrader: (5)

its pretty obvious when they dont work. i have had my pigtail on the pump go bad. she will never know unless she runs an interceptor all the time. i was boosted for 40k miles and the pigtail was the only fail. plus i could hear the coolant flowing in my flow through tank

Jacob4ta

iTrader: (1)

How is it obvious it doesn't work when your driving in stop and go traffic or on the highway?

Like I said, our cars don't know what an intercooler pump is that's why we shove our power wire into our fuel pump fuse. So if it fails, good luck.

bmxracerchamp12

iTrader: (5)

and how are you monitoring it? how would you ever knew it went out other then the obvious heat soaking. i have an aluminum flow through tank and i can hear it pumping with the car running. so many people pass right by it and wouldnt notice unless they tune or run an interceptor