I'm sorry if this was brought up before. I've been searching for a few days to no avail, I have this issue where I'm driving, and when i let off the gas to shift, or after I shift and let off the clutch, my car bounces. I suspect Tranny mounts are going out. (2007 G5 GT 85k miles). Can I buy cobalt mounts and bolt them in? Someone said the front mount is different. I know that's for the Redline, but i'm not 100% sure. I've only had the car a week. I'll be checking the Control Arm Bushings to make sure, but they look ok from a visual inspection. Thanks for the help

 

We carry tranny inserts for the 2.2/2.4L simple and cheap fix, if your stock bushings are bad.

 

So the Cobalt 2.4 mounts just swap into the G5 GT mounts? Both tranny and engine?

 

The ones we carry will.

 

Fantastic! Yours are on sale so i might have to pick them up in red

 

Order away! With the holiday coming, sooner you order the better. Everything slows down in shipping so bad with all the holiday deliveries.

 

if you want to stop power hop we are the only folks who make and sell f23 trans rotated mounts for your car. john@powellraceshop.com. In stock and work. No vibes is a bonus.
its more likely the control arm bushings are bad and we have a 199 permanet solution for that. Designed for alloy arms, recently a member installed them in a steel arm no problem. Perhaps the GT came with alloy arms. Good luck.

 

I'm not so sure it's a power hop as much as it is a defected mount. It happens when i disengage my clutch, and the drive-train just bounces the car. Like a slack. It's not wheel hop or anything.

While I have you guys here, How would I go about testing the Control arm bushings and mounts for defect? Using a crow-bar on the CAB and mounts?

 

If you just have slop and want to get rid of it, no need to waste money on more expensive mounts. Inserts will do what you are asking.

Rear cab do go bad easy. John does have the ultimate solution for those. Stock cab are junk.

 

you can see if the control arm bushing is bad, just get a strong light and look at it with the wheel off....

 

John is right get the aluminum fe5 control arms... Your stock steel ones are a PITA to get pressed in correctly.

 

Gotcha! I'll go outside over the next couple days and take a look. So the slop is from the tranny mounts? How do i check those mounts?

 

The stock steel arms are extremly easy to do bushings on takes maybe 20 min a side

 

AFAIK the SS/NA and G5 GT have Aluminum Arms. i know my 06 SS/NA does. only FE1's are steel

 

^^^troof.

 

Would a solid upper engine mount help as well, or is it all tranny mount?
What does an upper engine mount do exactly, in relationship to drive-ability of the car?
Will it hurt my car if i continue to drive it the way it is now for a little bit until i get time and money to replace these parts?

Thanks for all the info, I greatly appreciate it

 

Powell, I went online to your website to check out your products and see prices but the links don't work, they just take me to the home page. And a lot of them say "Coming June 2012"

 

Our website is an ongoing issue. so here goes:

Put a set on today for a customer today, and he was happy; it really is nice what it does for the manual trans LE5/L61 cars. Highly recommended....

(he did have avid poly mounts so the vibes were awful and the hop was still there) so ez to be better I think....:hehe:




and here was last summer our test mule vid:



[/QUOTE]

our customers say:


From Dandaman15

"F23 Rotated Mount Install Instructions
#1 Jack car up put on stands at the front.

#2 Loosen the top passenger and driver side mount bolts 1 turn.
15mm with extension Passanger side/16mm Driver side - both 3/8 ratchet

#3 support motor and transmission at the diff housing with a jack and a piece of
2x4 to make it easy on the transmission case.

#4 Remove the three bolts that hold the rear motor mount.
15mm 1/2 ratchet

#5 Remove the three bolts holding the trans mount to the Bellhousing of the transmission. In an upside down L formation
16mm 1/2 ratchet

#5 1/2 Now that the mount can "swing" move it around so you can slide the spacer in between the cradle and mount.

#6 Push the three bolts you removed up, to clear the shim and start the
threads by hand. Move the mount around to place the Bellhousing bolts back into the trans. Dont tighten all the way down

#7 Lower the jack to engage the mount to the cradle. Make sure you can still
tighten the bolts a few turns with your ratchet, do not tighten fully.

#8 Reposition the jack so its in the middle of motor and the trans unit.

#9 Remove the front mount. 3 bolts to transmission, 1 cross bolt to cradle.
15mm 3/8 ratchet - Crossbolt 18mm 3/8 ratchet

#10 Replace the front mount with new one, just start the mount to transmission
bolts, a couple of turns, then insert the cross bolt. You will need to
puncture the tape, and you will need to maneuver the motor and mount to
line up the cross bolt. Start the threads.

#11 Start tightening the bolts start at the rear, then go to the front,
then the top passenger side.

#12 Now torque the bolts. three rear bolts are 37 ft lbs. front mount to trans bolts are 42 ft lbs. cross bolt is 58 lbs. Top pass mounts are 42 ft lbs. Torque rear triangular keyhole spacer rear mount bolts.


For step 10 I found it easier to totally tighten the bolts holding the mount to the engine first, then raise the engine up and down with the jack to line up the cross bolt. Fitting the spacer in and lining this up was seriously the hardest part of the job."



This is mostly Johns work, but after actually doing it some of the sizes he gave for the bolts were incorrect so I just added the tools I used for each step and the sizes under the step. I should have taken pics but was by myself and didnt want to get my camera dirty.

The mount is spectacular, I love the way the car feels now. I cant wait for rain to see how my car feels without wheel hop"


Brags said:"They are great, I'm at 320 whp no wheel hop whatsoever. Thanks Mr Powell "

None of these posters were satisfied with poly mount inserts, but the poly stuff is cheap no doubt.

 

So your rotated mounts come with poly in them though? How much are they, just curious?

 

I posted a picture of the mount, NO poly there. so not sure why you say that. 150 dollars, new composite OEM GM mount with rotated insert and keyhole spacer for the rear.

 

I just thought poly was got rid of the slop in the drive train.

Here are some pics of my CAB.. they look ok to me.

 

they do. the only thing possible that you can see, is if the insert is seperating from the rubber; but I would say they are good to go - look like Malibu inserts not SS, I cant see any voids in the insert (SS) whereas Malibu has none. But so far, so good. The cradle bolts have been out of the car the head is marked from a socket....

 

That's weird, maybe that's why it handles so well. (Malibu inserts?) But i know it was in a small accident a while ago in new jersey. I bought it knowing this because the car's steering was very tight and precise, as if nothing's ever happened.

 

Does the lack of inserts have to do with my car being a G5 GT?

 

I dont think so. Its the voids I am talking about, and maybe its just the photo. But you never know, they may have changed the bushing in the arm for FE3 G5 GT's. If it works well be happy lol....and towards the end of the Cobalt lifespan, I am sure they were scrambling with the supply chain and the bankruptcy, for a while I could not buy those bushing inserts, they were VIN number provided only, ask Maven. Cost 58 dollars each.