went logging right now and my L ran to redline. well in 1st. didnt try to take it to redline in 2nd cuz I put it into I

 

It seems to shift earlier though

 

Now u can beat on the car again lol

 

nah i still cant because i dont have tires and if i go full wot during 1st ill be like traction lol.

nhanson - yeah the shifting earlier from 1st to 2nd helps me i think because my car doesnt hit the rev limiter and hesitate to shift

 

I honestly wouldn't downshift from any gear unless you are completely stopped.. Upshifting is fine, but if you downshift a lot (Like I used to), you will find yourself replacing things like the Mass Airflow Sensor, and the Intake/Exhaust Camshaft Actuator Solenoids..

Personal experience has taught me not to downshift to be a little more on the safe side..

The way I race is:

Start in Low (L) by holding both the brake (Pedal, not E-brake) and gas to the floor. When you start, release the brake and continue to floor the gas pedal. Continue holding through the shift from 1st to 2nd. When your rpms hit 5,600 I shift into I, then when that hits 6,000 I shift into Drive. That takes you to 70 mph, which is when Drive would shift at WOT anyway. After that it shifts at about 120, so you should be fine for a quarter mile.. Drive after 70 holds high rpms close to max HP output.

 

if i am at a stop and have the brake fully pressed and the gas to the floor i roast my tires. I basically cant go full wot in 1st cuz i lose traction. I find it better to do start in L and shift to I at about 25-30 so that way ill be in 2nd and then I can start my roll race. Yeah i know the right amount of throttle to press in L from a dig so that I wont roast tires and will still get some good speed but i dont like doing dig races much

 

as for the solenoids...those are a common problem on 06 2.4s. Ive replaced my intake solenoid already and the uhhh map sensor cuz those both went bad

 

Downshifting is just fine. Those parts would of failed anyway.

I hit limiter in 2nd if i go WOT from a stop

 

Oh.. You are supercharged.. Lol then disregard my method of racing.. haha.. And about the int/exh actuator solenoid failures.. I have a friend with an HHR (2.2 Ecotec) and she had the common problem of the TC off light being on, hard shifts with the transmission etc. etc.. Replaced the MAF sensor, reset code, CEL came back on, was diagnosed as the code for the solenoids.. Had those replaced (brand new) and code reset. She let one of my other friends drive her car, he downshifted to low going ~35 mph. everything was fine (for a minute). Next time she started the car, the CEL came on, I pulled her codes and she got the solenoid codes again. She took it back to the shop (told her not to), and the new solenoids pulled and inspected, both were faulty.. Coincidence?
I'm not saying that downshifting to "L" wrecks the Camshaft Actuator Solenoids, but I am saying there has to be something involved??
Note: I haven't pulled those codes again in the 7 months since I replaced mine.

 

And going from a stop in Low, I hit the limiter at 70 mph, which is the end of my 2nd gear WOT. From a stop to WOT in Low it shifts at 45 into 2nd, then maxes out at 70 in low before I have to shift to I/D.

 

actually I never used L or I until after I made this thread and had to change my solenoid way before it. the solenoids going bad are a veryyy common problem for these cars. search the 2.4 forums and you will find many many threads over it. I used to have a code that same camshaft actuator or something like that and the tc light would turn on and it would shift very hard. it stopped turning on randomly when i replaced my solenoid but would still turn on when i would floor it from a stop. turns out it was my map sensor too so when i replaced that the car has been running perfect. those symptoms and problems are really common for these cars like i said so the whole downshifting stuff really has nothing to do with them lol

oh and i havent pulled the codes since i replaced mine either which was about march or so

 

Just stop.

The actuators and solenoids are known for going bad. Downshifting. Upshifting. Flooring it. Sneezing. Driving while listening to the radio. Or having 215hp with an NA 2.4 LE5 auto wont make the actuators or solenoids go bad.

 

No issues with my solenoids at all. (2.2 LAP VVT)

 

i know nothing about 2.2s lol but i do know they always go bad in 2.4s...shoulda had a recall on them

 

Extended warranty its an awesome thing

 

ehhh it was only $50 for the part and its really easy to change them out so i did it myself lol

 

5 year/100k powertrain! although that crap didnt even cover my trans cooler lines that leaked.

91k already on this damn car...bought new at 32 miles

 

I have that as well. But its nice this way the dealer has to fix it no matter what. Keeps them nicely at bay. I dont have to deal bs just tell them to fix it and driveway in a free rental.

 

Hey BecauseRacecar let's see those 14.4 time slips. That's a record for our cars by far....

 

wrong thread(: the questioning about that stuff is on the who would win thread in the 2.4 section. starts at like page 3.

 

x2...with an auto!

 

lol, seems legit