How much HP for Fully bolted N/A ?
08-09-2009 | 12:04 AM
#26
lol. on my old car i spent months carefully port and polishing my head and selecting the perfect cams. got the head shaved. it was nice. put it on and after hours of timing it we finally got her started. after a decent break in period for the cams we revved her up a bit... valve buckets came apart and shattered, chipped cams, floated all the ex valves and bent 6 of them.
anyways, i never actually got the car off the jack stands with it going like that and i still recieved an email or 2 from admirers. lol. im not trying to brag just trying to make a point. how many turboed 4 cyls have u heard of.... a gabajallion... supered.... a bajallion... n/a... not so much.
but to each his own. do what u like. not what anyone else likes. bc in the end ur the one whos driving it. and ur the one who has to put up with the turbo lag, shitty idle, mad mileage, etc. every time u mod a car ur trading something off.
anyways, i never actually got the car off the jack stands with it going like that and i still recieved an email or 2 from admirers. lol. im not trying to brag just trying to make a point. how many turboed 4 cyls have u heard of.... a gabajallion... supered.... a bajallion... n/a... not so much.
but to each his own. do what u like. not what anyone else likes. bc in the end ur the one whos driving it. and ur the one who has to put up with the turbo lag, shitty idle, mad mileage, etc. every time u mod a car ur trading something off.
sounds fun
you have any pics???
09-02-2009 | 01:58 AM
#31
New Member
Joined: 04-22-09
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Houston
GM has been lying about true power numbers for their SS models since the dawn of time. When I first got my 2.4L I heard that it was 159hp. Then I heard it was 171 hp. Finally it was 173 hp. I'm the second owner and the first one ripped out all the mods he did, which I can gather was at least a "heaton" supercharger and and maybe a 100hp shot of NOS. I guess he forget to get his intercooler and switch/hoses. As I am contemplating the true amount of power I realize something. I beat 5.0's and Z28's all day long. And then I get out torgued by a Neon. My friend Willis has a sweet Neon and even though he seriously out torgues me, he can never shake me. Some people say that engine and drivetrain work is more expensive than just simply forced induction. 171hp? I have a 93 240sx convertible thats sits in my garage most of the time. It's completely original and is 155 hp. My 2.4L is twice as fast as the 240. I had my friend drag race me. He drove the Cobalt and I the 240. The 240 got buried. Not beaten. Buried. Devastated. Since I don't care for shortening my engines life by forcing **** through it, I decided to remain N/A. No offense to those who prefer forced induction, but if you budget well and look for deals, it is possible to build your 2.4L pretty nicely. And without having to tear apart the entire front end of your car.
I plan for my 2.4L to go quite a long time because I treat it like it's my child. In the interest of keeping the car as original as possible because of the rarity of the 2.4L I have decided to go with mods that don't announce themselves. This list is short and final. Check it out.
Some mods have already been completed.
Custom Fab Limited-Slip Differential, since stupid GM doesn't have one for the Auto Tranny. (Should be perfect to help even the score against the Neon) Cobalt's aren't known for a ton of torgue, but the one really nice thing about the torgue is that it NEVER falls off the table at speeds above 100. The torgue that it does have, NEVER quits. Even a stock Neon has LSD. WTF?
Comp billet cams and gears. Need I say more. Easy mod that takes about a day with power tools and the right torgue wrench.
Cold Air Intake. Even though it is not the best one available, I'm going to stick with the GMPP. Like I said before, I'm more interested in keeping the car original and true the SS legacy. I want the engine compartment to look like I've never turned a wrench on it.
I like Magna Flow Exhaust. Dual Exhaust on a Cobalt sounds killer. When I punch it, it screams like a banshee, but for those days when you are driving around like Grandma, it has a soft, low rumble that will have more bass than the stereo. It really brings out the sound of your cams. Harley Davidson sounding idles are possible. Especially at night.
Fuel rail, colder spark, larger injectors. No brainer, and it's fuel efficient as well.
I am undecided currently on header/downpipe. It could end up being a custom fab.
I have decided to go with Tein coilovers. Simply because they are the best deal for the money that I have seen. Unfortunately since the word Tein will not be allowed to be seen on my car, any decals will be removed and the coilovers painted. Besides, green won't go with gray and black. Tein also has a digital interface. For a decent size chunk of coin you can have a computer adjust your ****. All I care is that its "stiff", so I won't getting the interface.
Jet Performance Chip/ and or Module. Cheap, Simple, Efficient.
Last but certainly not least is a tune. Since I have heard about the results of a good tune, and the horror stories of a bad tune. I have decided not to let anyone tune my car and instead, tune it myself. I am looking forward to learning how to do this. When I was a teenager, it was all Chevy V8's and Edelbrock's. Now it's a whole host of different parts and even different ideas. I am just old enough to appreciate old school power and just young enough to embrace technology in modern sports cars. Personally, I have come to like the modern technology way more than I ever did.
The cost of everything mentioned above is comparable to any stage 2 turbo kit that is worth a ****. Whether or not it is more "work" is debateable. Honestly, my uncle owns a transmission repair shop. I trust his 30 years of experience and FREE Labor, so that cuts down considerably the cost of installing LSD. The only other real "labor" was maybe the cams and gears. If you have changed a timing chain on anything, then you know the drill. Simple.
If after you do all this, and your Cobalt still can't compete, then why bother having one. No offense, but that means your ass can't drive. Sell it to me and just go buy you a 50,000 dollar ready made bad ass like a Vette. 450 HP/LBS right out the chute, no snap-on neccessary.
Besides, after you get done with these mods, anyone you race whether it be from a dig or a roll, will need 450 lbs of torgue to beat you. I actually prefer long distance races with obstacles and the fear of getting killed or arrested. I like to win a race simply because I outdrove the other person. I will even race from a roll against a car I know is more superior than mine simply because I want to see how the Cobalt stacks up. I want to see if the other driver can control his power. See if he can cut across five lanes of traffic without getting honked at. Sadly, most people with massive hp and torgue can't even take a freeway interchange without hitting the brake. If the curve ahead says recommended speed 40 mph and you hit the brake trying to take it at 90, then to me thats the ultimate defeat. If you punch your big block to simply try to out torgue me but you get stuck behind an 18 wheeler, then what have you gained. You can either race another car the distance between here and my mailbox, or race somebody's wristwatch basically, or do it for real and race a long distance, let's say 5 or 10 miles. I personally like turning the needle upside down on my speedometer for as long as possible, instead of racing for thirteen seconds or less at a time. The Cobalt SS with these mods, does it more perfectly than any car I have ever driven before. It's really cool to watch a Z28 get the jump on me from a dig, then get his dreams crushed at 70 mph when I start to overtake him nice and steady. With a middle-fingered salute, deafening exhaust, and 2,000 watts of straight death metal, he won't be able to even hear himself bitching.
Sorry if my post was too long, but it only took 8 minutes to type. I like to elaborate. Not everyone agrees, but I think the Cobalt is one of the baddest car's ever. I'm never selling mine.
I plan for my 2.4L to go quite a long time because I treat it like it's my child. In the interest of keeping the car as original as possible because of the rarity of the 2.4L I have decided to go with mods that don't announce themselves. This list is short and final. Check it out.
Some mods have already been completed.
Custom Fab Limited-Slip Differential, since stupid GM doesn't have one for the Auto Tranny. (Should be perfect to help even the score against the Neon) Cobalt's aren't known for a ton of torgue, but the one really nice thing about the torgue is that it NEVER falls off the table at speeds above 100. The torgue that it does have, NEVER quits. Even a stock Neon has LSD. WTF?
Comp billet cams and gears. Need I say more. Easy mod that takes about a day with power tools and the right torgue wrench.
Cold Air Intake. Even though it is not the best one available, I'm going to stick with the GMPP. Like I said before, I'm more interested in keeping the car original and true the SS legacy. I want the engine compartment to look like I've never turned a wrench on it.
I like Magna Flow Exhaust. Dual Exhaust on a Cobalt sounds killer. When I punch it, it screams like a banshee, but for those days when you are driving around like Grandma, it has a soft, low rumble that will have more bass than the stereo. It really brings out the sound of your cams. Harley Davidson sounding idles are possible. Especially at night.
Fuel rail, colder spark, larger injectors. No brainer, and it's fuel efficient as well.
I am undecided currently on header/downpipe. It could end up being a custom fab.
I have decided to go with Tein coilovers. Simply because they are the best deal for the money that I have seen. Unfortunately since the word Tein will not be allowed to be seen on my car, any decals will be removed and the coilovers painted. Besides, green won't go with gray and black. Tein also has a digital interface. For a decent size chunk of coin you can have a computer adjust your ****. All I care is that its "stiff", so I won't getting the interface.
Jet Performance Chip/ and or Module. Cheap, Simple, Efficient.
Last but certainly not least is a tune. Since I have heard about the results of a good tune, and the horror stories of a bad tune. I have decided not to let anyone tune my car and instead, tune it myself. I am looking forward to learning how to do this. When I was a teenager, it was all Chevy V8's and Edelbrock's. Now it's a whole host of different parts and even different ideas. I am just old enough to appreciate old school power and just young enough to embrace technology in modern sports cars. Personally, I have come to like the modern technology way more than I ever did.
The cost of everything mentioned above is comparable to any stage 2 turbo kit that is worth a ****. Whether or not it is more "work" is debateable. Honestly, my uncle owns a transmission repair shop. I trust his 30 years of experience and FREE Labor, so that cuts down considerably the cost of installing LSD. The only other real "labor" was maybe the cams and gears. If you have changed a timing chain on anything, then you know the drill. Simple.
If after you do all this, and your Cobalt still can't compete, then why bother having one. No offense, but that means your ass can't drive. Sell it to me and just go buy you a 50,000 dollar ready made bad ass like a Vette. 450 HP/LBS right out the chute, no snap-on neccessary.
Besides, after you get done with these mods, anyone you race whether it be from a dig or a roll, will need 450 lbs of torgue to beat you. I actually prefer long distance races with obstacles and the fear of getting killed or arrested. I like to win a race simply because I outdrove the other person. I will even race from a roll against a car I know is more superior than mine simply because I want to see how the Cobalt stacks up. I want to see if the other driver can control his power. See if he can cut across five lanes of traffic without getting honked at. Sadly, most people with massive hp and torgue can't even take a freeway interchange without hitting the brake. If the curve ahead says recommended speed 40 mph and you hit the brake trying to take it at 90, then to me thats the ultimate defeat. If you punch your big block to simply try to out torgue me but you get stuck behind an 18 wheeler, then what have you gained. You can either race another car the distance between here and my mailbox, or race somebody's wristwatch basically, or do it for real and race a long distance, let's say 5 or 10 miles. I personally like turning the needle upside down on my speedometer for as long as possible, instead of racing for thirteen seconds or less at a time. The Cobalt SS with these mods, does it more perfectly than any car I have ever driven before. It's really cool to watch a Z28 get the jump on me from a dig, then get his dreams crushed at 70 mph when I start to overtake him nice and steady. With a middle-fingered salute, deafening exhaust, and 2,000 watts of straight death metal, he won't be able to even hear himself bitching.
Sorry if my post was too long, but it only took 8 minutes to type. I like to elaborate. Not everyone agrees, but I think the Cobalt is one of the baddest car's ever. I'm never selling mine.
09-08-2009 | 06:26 AM
#32
Senior Member
Joined: 04-22-09
Posts: 542
Likes: 0
From: Oak Hill, West Virginia
You must have one bad 2.4 because i race my wife in our 2.4 ss in my 93 z28 and i Can outrun its top speed in 3rd gear and i have 6. Not even close, I guess it goes to show how people can build things if they have the know how. I know about v8's, not so much about 4 cylinders.
09-08-2009 | 06:44 AM
#33
GM has been lying about true power numbers for their SS models since the dawn of time. When I first got my 2.4L I heard that it was 159hp. Then I heard it was 171 hp. Finally it was 173 hp. I'm the second owner and the first one ripped out all the mods he did, which I can gather was at least a "heaton" supercharger and and maybe a 100hp shot of NOS. I guess he forget to get his intercooler and switch/hoses. As I am contemplating the true amount of power I realize something. I beat 5.0's and Z28's all day long. And then I get out torgued by a Neon. My friend Willis has a sweet Neon and even though he seriously out torgues me, he can never shake me. Some people say that engine and drivetrain work is more expensive than just simply forced induction. 171hp? I have a 93 240sx convertible thats sits in my garage most of the time. It's completely original and is 155 hp. My 2.4L is twice as fast as the 240. I had my friend drag race me. He drove the Cobalt and I the 240. The 240 got buried. Not beaten. Buried. Devastated. Since I don't care for shortening my engines life by forcing **** through it, I decided to remain N/A. No offense to those who prefer forced induction, but if you budget well and look for deals, it is possible to build your 2.4L pretty nicely. And without having to tear apart the entire front end of your car.
I plan for my 2.4L to go quite a long time because I treat it like it's my child. In the interest of keeping the car as original as possible because of the rarity of the 2.4L I have decided to go with mods that don't announce themselves. This list is short and final. Check it out.
Some mods have already been completed.
Custom Fab Limited-Slip Differential, since stupid GM doesn't have one for the Auto Tranny. (Should be perfect to help even the score against the Neon) Cobalt's aren't known for a ton of torgue, but the one really nice thing about the torgue is that it NEVER falls off the table at speeds above 100. The torgue that it does have, NEVER quits. Even a stock Neon has LSD. WTF?
Comp billet cams and gears. Need I say more. Easy mod that takes about a day with power tools and the right torgue wrench.
Cold Air Intake. Even though it is not the best one available, I'm going to stick with the GMPP. Like I said before, I'm more interested in keeping the car original and true the SS legacy. I want the engine compartment to look like I've never turned a wrench on it.
I like Magna Flow Exhaust. Dual Exhaust on a Cobalt sounds killer. When I punch it, it screams like a banshee, but for those days when you are driving around like Grandma, it has a soft, low rumble that will have more bass than the stereo. It really brings out the sound of your cams. Harley Davidson sounding idles are possible. Especially at night.
Fuel rail, colder spark, larger injectors. No brainer, and it's fuel efficient as well.
I am undecided currently on header/downpipe. It could end up being a custom fab.
I have decided to go with Tein coilovers. Simply because they are the best deal for the money that I have seen. Unfortunately since the word Tein will not be allowed to be seen on my car, any decals will be removed and the coilovers painted. Besides, green won't go with gray and black. Tein also has a digital interface. For a decent size chunk of coin you can have a computer adjust your ****. All I care is that its "stiff", so I won't getting the interface.
Jet Performance Chip/ and or Module. Cheap, Simple, Efficient.
Last but certainly not least is a tune. Since I have heard about the results of a good tune, and the horror stories of a bad tune. I have decided not to let anyone tune my car and instead, tune it myself. I am looking forward to learning how to do this. When I was a teenager, it was all Chevy V8's and Edelbrock's. Now it's a whole host of different parts and even different ideas. I am just old enough to appreciate old school power and just young enough to embrace technology in modern sports cars. Personally, I have come to like the modern technology way more than I ever did.
The cost of everything mentioned above is comparable to any stage 2 turbo kit that is worth a ****. Whether or not it is more "work" is debateable. Honestly, my uncle owns a transmission repair shop. I trust his 30 years of experience and FREE Labor, so that cuts down considerably the cost of installing LSD. The only other real "labor" was maybe the cams and gears. If you have changed a timing chain on anything, then you know the drill. Simple.
If after you do all this, and your Cobalt still can't compete, then why bother having one. No offense, but that means your ass can't drive. Sell it to me and just go buy you a 50,000 dollar ready made bad ass like a Vette. 450 HP/LBS right out the chute, no snap-on neccessary.
Besides, after you get done with these mods, anyone you race whether it be from a dig or a roll, will need 450 lbs of torgue to beat you. I actually prefer long distance races with obstacles and the fear of getting killed or arrested. I like to win a race simply because I outdrove the other person. I will even race from a roll against a car I know is more superior than mine simply because I want to see how the Cobalt stacks up. I want to see if the other driver can control his power. See if he can cut across five lanes of traffic without getting honked at. Sadly, most people with massive hp and torgue can't even take a freeway interchange without hitting the brake. If the curve ahead says recommended speed 40 mph and you hit the brake trying to take it at 90, then to me thats the ultimate defeat. If you punch your big block to simply try to out torgue me but you get stuck behind an 18 wheeler, then what have you gained. You can either race another car the distance between here and my mailbox, or race somebody's wristwatch basically, or do it for real and race a long distance, let's say 5 or 10 miles. I personally like turning the needle upside down on my speedometer for as long as possible, instead of racing for thirteen seconds or less at a time. The Cobalt SS with these mods, does it more perfectly than any car I have ever driven before. It's really cool to watch a Z28 get the jump on me from a dig, then get his dreams crushed at 70 mph when I start to overtake him nice and steady. With a middle-fingered salute, deafening exhaust, and 2,000 watts of straight death metal, he won't be able to even hear himself bitching.
Sorry if my post was too long, but it only took 8 minutes to type. I like to elaborate. Not everyone agrees, but I think the Cobalt is one of the baddest car's ever. I'm never selling mine.
I plan for my 2.4L to go quite a long time because I treat it like it's my child. In the interest of keeping the car as original as possible because of the rarity of the 2.4L I have decided to go with mods that don't announce themselves. This list is short and final. Check it out.
Some mods have already been completed.
Custom Fab Limited-Slip Differential, since stupid GM doesn't have one for the Auto Tranny. (Should be perfect to help even the score against the Neon) Cobalt's aren't known for a ton of torgue, but the one really nice thing about the torgue is that it NEVER falls off the table at speeds above 100. The torgue that it does have, NEVER quits. Even a stock Neon has LSD. WTF?
Comp billet cams and gears. Need I say more. Easy mod that takes about a day with power tools and the right torgue wrench.
Cold Air Intake. Even though it is not the best one available, I'm going to stick with the GMPP. Like I said before, I'm more interested in keeping the car original and true the SS legacy. I want the engine compartment to look like I've never turned a wrench on it.
I like Magna Flow Exhaust. Dual Exhaust on a Cobalt sounds killer. When I punch it, it screams like a banshee, but for those days when you are driving around like Grandma, it has a soft, low rumble that will have more bass than the stereo. It really brings out the sound of your cams. Harley Davidson sounding idles are possible. Especially at night.
Fuel rail, colder spark, larger injectors. No brainer, and it's fuel efficient as well.
I am undecided currently on header/downpipe. It could end up being a custom fab.
I have decided to go with Tein coilovers. Simply because they are the best deal for the money that I have seen. Unfortunately since the word Tein will not be allowed to be seen on my car, any decals will be removed and the coilovers painted. Besides, green won't go with gray and black. Tein also has a digital interface. For a decent size chunk of coin you can have a computer adjust your ****. All I care is that its "stiff", so I won't getting the interface.
Jet Performance Chip/ and or Module. Cheap, Simple, Efficient.
Last but certainly not least is a tune. Since I have heard about the results of a good tune, and the horror stories of a bad tune. I have decided not to let anyone tune my car and instead, tune it myself. I am looking forward to learning how to do this. When I was a teenager, it was all Chevy V8's and Edelbrock's. Now it's a whole host of different parts and even different ideas. I am just old enough to appreciate old school power and just young enough to embrace technology in modern sports cars. Personally, I have come to like the modern technology way more than I ever did.
The cost of everything mentioned above is comparable to any stage 2 turbo kit that is worth a ****. Whether or not it is more "work" is debateable. Honestly, my uncle owns a transmission repair shop. I trust his 30 years of experience and FREE Labor, so that cuts down considerably the cost of installing LSD. The only other real "labor" was maybe the cams and gears. If you have changed a timing chain on anything, then you know the drill. Simple.
If after you do all this, and your Cobalt still can't compete, then why bother having one. No offense, but that means your ass can't drive. Sell it to me and just go buy you a 50,000 dollar ready made bad ass like a Vette. 450 HP/LBS right out the chute, no snap-on neccessary.
Besides, after you get done with these mods, anyone you race whether it be from a dig or a roll, will need 450 lbs of torgue to beat you. I actually prefer long distance races with obstacles and the fear of getting killed or arrested. I like to win a race simply because I outdrove the other person. I will even race from a roll against a car I know is more superior than mine simply because I want to see how the Cobalt stacks up. I want to see if the other driver can control his power. See if he can cut across five lanes of traffic without getting honked at. Sadly, most people with massive hp and torgue can't even take a freeway interchange without hitting the brake. If the curve ahead says recommended speed 40 mph and you hit the brake trying to take it at 90, then to me thats the ultimate defeat. If you punch your big block to simply try to out torgue me but you get stuck behind an 18 wheeler, then what have you gained. You can either race another car the distance between here and my mailbox, or race somebody's wristwatch basically, or do it for real and race a long distance, let's say 5 or 10 miles. I personally like turning the needle upside down on my speedometer for as long as possible, instead of racing for thirteen seconds or less at a time. The Cobalt SS with these mods, does it more perfectly than any car I have ever driven before. It's really cool to watch a Z28 get the jump on me from a dig, then get his dreams crushed at 70 mph when I start to overtake him nice and steady. With a middle-fingered salute, deafening exhaust, and 2,000 watts of straight death metal, he won't be able to even hear himself bitching.
Sorry if my post was too long, but it only took 8 minutes to type. I like to elaborate. Not everyone agrees, but I think the Cobalt is one of the baddest car's ever. I'm never selling mine.
you dont even have a tune or full exhaust and you claim to beat 5.0's and z28s? better be like 1980 auto models...
My 89 GT 5.0 5 spd convertible with just a cai and an electric cooling fan ran 14.42 at 98mph with a 2.2 60ft..... I know the autos run mid 15's.... but im thinking if your beating all these z28s and 5.0ls they dont know your racing....
So I flat out call BS on this post.
09-08-2009 | 06:50 AM
#34
Senior Member
Joined: 04-22-09
Posts: 542
Likes: 0
From: Oak Hill, West Virginia
I just read that again and I'm kinda confused now. Are you saying you are beating 5.0's and z28's with the stock cobalt or is it built? I know stock it shouldnt even come close to either of those unless they were from the early 80's. An iroc 305 tuned port only had 170 horsepower. But the later 80's and on 350 camaros are a different story, ecspecially when they went to the LT1. The 5.0s in teh early 80's were like 140 horsepower so you could kill the early 80's with a stock 2.4 but not after that. I just cant tell what you have done or what your planning on doing. What is done to it now?
09-08-2009 | 07:47 PM
#35
oh, and if i recall correctly, rtullo is a known troll. Im pretty sure he was banned a while back...i dont recognize the 808 at the end of his name..so he probably made a new account.
09-09-2009 | 01:10 AM
#37
I just read that again and I'm kinda confused now. Are you saying you are beating 5.0's and z28's with the stock cobalt or is it built? I know stock it shouldnt even come close to either of those unless they were from the early 80's. An iroc 305 tuned port only had 170 horsepower. But the later 80's and on 350 camaros are a different story, ecspecially when they went to the LT1. The 5.0s in teh early 80's were like 140 horsepower so you could kill the early 80's with a stock 2.4 but not after that. I just cant tell what you have done or what your planning on doing. What is done to it now?
Camaros
Base and Z28 models LG4 150-165hp (305 quadrajunk motor)
Base RS and apparently some Iroc's L03 170hp (305 tbi motor)
Some Irocs LB9 190hp (think im getting that right... 305 tpi motor)
Some Irocs L98 235-245hp (350 Tpi motor)
Mustangs
4.2L V8 120hp Werent badged 5.0L
Very early 5.0 (82-83 pretty much) 140hp
84-85 5.0 this is argued but its between 180-200hp
86 5.0 200hp
87-93 Varied a bit back and forth but 225hp
Now against the 5.0Ls an LE5 would only have hope against the 86 and down autos or manuals. Though not much against the 84-85 manual.
Would have some hope if the LE5 was a manaul of beating all auto 5.0's.
Camaro wise it would only have hope of getting the L03 and LG4 autos if its a 5 spd.
My L03 auto with a slightly slipping trans catback and ignition ran a 15.71 at 90
My Gt 5.0L 89 Convertible 5 spd with 2.73 gearing only mods was cai and electric cooling fan ran a 14.42 at 98mph. The best stock time for a late 80s fox coupe 5 spd was 13.8 at 100mph bone stock 88 coupe 5 spd.
So im calling bs on this.
Jeff beat its top speed in 3rd???? Reword what your saying.
09-09-2009 | 11:58 PM
#38
09-10-2009 | 12:05 AM
#39
09-10-2009 | 08:27 AM
#41
Senior Member
Joined: 04-22-09
Posts: 542
Likes: 0
From: Oak Hill, West Virginia
Incorrect. on the Irocs.....
Camaros
Base and Z28 models LG4 150-165hp (305 quadrajunk motor)
Base RS and apparently some Iroc's L03 170hp (305 tbi motor)
Some Irocs LB9 190hp (think im getting that right... 305 tpi motor)
Some Irocs L98 235-245hp (350 Tpi motor)
Mustangs
4.2L V8 120hp Werent badged 5.0L
Very early 5.0 (82-83 pretty much) 140hp
84-85 5.0 this is argued but its between 180-200hp
86 5.0 200hp
87-93 Varied a bit back and forth but 225hp
Now against the 5.0Ls an LE5 would only have hope against the 86 and down autos or manuals. Though not much against the 84-85 manual.
Would have some hope if the LE5 was a manaul of beating all auto 5.0's.
Camaro wise it would only have hope of getting the L03 and LG4 autos if its a 5 spd.
My L03 auto with a slightly slipping trans catback and ignition ran a 15.71 at 90
My Gt 5.0L 89 Convertible 5 spd with 2.73 gearing only mods was cai and electric cooling fan ran a 14.42 at 98mph. The best stock time for a late 80s fox coupe 5 spd was 13.8 at 100mph bone stock 88 coupe 5 spd.
So im calling bs on this.
Jeff beat its top speed in 3rd???? Reword what your saying.
Camaros
Base and Z28 models LG4 150-165hp (305 quadrajunk motor)
Base RS and apparently some Iroc's L03 170hp (305 tbi motor)
Some Irocs LB9 190hp (think im getting that right... 305 tpi motor)
Some Irocs L98 235-245hp (350 Tpi motor)
Mustangs
4.2L V8 120hp Werent badged 5.0L
Very early 5.0 (82-83 pretty much) 140hp
84-85 5.0 this is argued but its between 180-200hp
86 5.0 200hp
87-93 Varied a bit back and forth but 225hp
Now against the 5.0Ls an LE5 would only have hope against the 86 and down autos or manuals. Though not much against the 84-85 manual.
Would have some hope if the LE5 was a manaul of beating all auto 5.0's.
Camaro wise it would only have hope of getting the L03 and LG4 autos if its a 5 spd.
My L03 auto with a slightly slipping trans catback and ignition ran a 15.71 at 90
My Gt 5.0L 89 Convertible 5 spd with 2.73 gearing only mods was cai and electric cooling fan ran a 14.42 at 98mph. The best stock time for a late 80s fox coupe 5 spd was 13.8 at 100mph bone stock 88 coupe 5 spd.
So im calling bs on this.
Jeff beat its top speed in 3rd???? Reword what your saying.
09-11-2009 | 03:29 PM
#42
Not that hard to believe actually
Last edited by CordiaDOHC; 09-11-2009 at 03:29 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
09-11-2009 | 05:09 PM
#43
not hard to believe its a happy dyno? or not hard to believe his numbers...
i GUARANTEE you he didnt gain 26whp with an intake and catback. If he's actually making the power that his dyno ays, and its not a hapy dyno, then he probably got lucky and got a factory freak, but still only gained maybe 5-10hp
i GUARANTEE you he didnt gain 26whp with an intake and catback. If he's actually making the power that his dyno ays, and its not a hapy dyno, then he probably got lucky and got a factory freak, but still only gained maybe 5-10hp
09-12-2009 | 01:20 AM
#44
not hard to believe its a happy dyno? or not hard to believe his numbers...
i GUARANTEE you he didnt gain 26whp with an intake and catback. If he's actually making the power that his dyno ays, and its not a hapy dyno, then he probably got lucky and got a factory freak, but still only gained maybe 5-10hp
i GUARANTEE you he didnt gain 26whp with an intake and catback. If he's actually making the power that his dyno ays, and its not a hapy dyno, then he probably got lucky and got a factory freak, but still only gained maybe 5-10hp
09-12-2009 | 05:23 AM
#45
there was no first dyno. again, he heither had a high baselining motor (aka factory freak), or he is on a happy dyno, but an intake and a catback did not give him 26whp. Full bolt ons might get you that much...might
09-12-2009 | 11:56 AM
#46
why is it hard to believe? Full bolt on and tune 2.4's can be in the 180-190fwhp range.
09-12-2009 | 03:47 PM
#47
09-13-2009 | 03:09 AM
#48
So why is it hard to believe that a cai = 167 or so? that like 23whp to tune header and catback.
Remember that the 2.4s use the same intake plumbing as the 2.2s. 2.2's see decent gains from the cai. So obviously the 2.4 will see more of a gain. K&N qoutes it around 17hp or so. So given a 150hp stock rating at the wheels 167 is spot on!
09-13-2009 | 07:12 AM
#50
ok full bolts ons plus tune on 5 spd cars = 190 or so frwhp.
So why is it hard to believe that a cai = 167 or so? that like 23whp to tune header and catback.
Remember that the 2.4s use the same intake plumbing as the 2.2s. 2.2's see decent gains from the cai. So obviously the 2.4 will see more of a gain. K&N qoutes it around 17hp or so. So given a 150hp stock rating at the wheels 167 is spot on!
So why is it hard to believe that a cai = 167 or so? that like 23whp to tune header and catback.
Remember that the 2.4s use the same intake plumbing as the 2.2s. 2.2's see decent gains from the cai. So obviously the 2.4 will see more of a gain. K&N qoutes it around 17hp or so. So given a 150hp stock rating at the wheels 167 is spot on!
there's no tune on his car...just stock tune and a catback and a header. K&N also will use the highest number they can. I doubt anyone will gain more than 10who from an intake alone...maybe SS/SC guys if its a 3" intake...but dude, you gotta learn a bit.. a LE5 doesnt make 150 at the wheels anyway, and if one did dyno at 150, then going to 167 wouldnt be a 23whp gain, like i said. it would mean theyre using a happy dyno