how much power can u gain from different octane fuel??
06-29-2007 | 06:31 PM
#52
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From: Canada
there's a few out that are actually good. but 90% of the octane boosters out there are crap. nos is one of the good ones. and the other big thing i meant when i said it's not worth it, is like you said, it was 11 dollars vs. 2 at the pump.
if you have 93, and want to run 97, that's different. but that's not something you would wanna do just because.
if you have 93, and want to run 97, that's different. but that's not something you would wanna do just because.
but like i said...some people only have 91, and if i was them, with a modded ss/sc and only 91 available? id DEFINATELY use lucas or NOS octane booster on track days.
and probably as often as i could afford too.
I have 91 all around me, but a 25 minute drive to some 94, so i try and only use 94, but occasionally im forced to use some 91 too. so i always keep a couple bottles of the good stuff handy.
06-30-2007 | 07:38 AM
#54
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From: MI
Must resist urge to flame. The 2.4 was tuned from the factory to use premium, which is why the owners manual recommends it. The engine, having a knock sensor and an O2 sensor, will make adjustments to the timing if you use **** fuel. For every degree of timing it pulls you will lose about 2 horsepower at the crank. The 173 horsepower rating stated by GM is with premium fuel, so if you mean will using premium give you more than 173hp, then no. However, using 87 octane you will not see 173hp...you would have to compare your timing before and after to figure out the difference. For your reading pleasure I've also copied the following from wikipedia......
"Timing advance refers to the number of degrees before top dead center (BTDC) that the spark will ignite the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber during the power stroke. Timing retard refers to the number of degrees after top dead center (ATDC) that the spark will ignite the air-fuel mixture during the power stroke.
Timing advance is required because it takes time to burn the air-fuel mixture. Igniting the mixture before the piston reaches top dead center (TDC) will allow the mixture to become fully burnt soon after the piston reaches TDC. If the air-fuel mixture is ignited at the correct time, maximum pressure in the cylinder will occur sometime after the piston reaches TDC allowing the ignited mixture to push the piston down the cylinder. Ideally, the time at which the mixture should be fully burnt is about 20 degrees ATDC. This will utilize the engine's power producing potential. If the ignition spark occurs at a position that is too advanced relative to piston position, the rapidly expanding air-fuel mixture can actually push against the piston causing detonation and lost power. If the spark occurs too retarded relative to the piston position, maximum cylinder pressure will occur after the piston is already traveling too far down the cylinder. This results in lost power, high emissions, and unburned fuel.
The ignition timing will need to become increasingly advanced (relative to TDC) as the engine speed increases so that the air-fuel mixture has the correct amount of time to fully burn. Another reason for advancing the timing is because as the engine speed increases, fuel consumption increases. Since more fuel is present in the cylinder, the time required to fully burn the air-fuel mixture will be longer. Poor volumetric efficiency at lower engine speeds also requires increased advancement of ignition timing. The correct timing advance for a given engine speed will allow for maximum cylinder pressure to be achieved at the correct crankshaft angular position. When setting the timing for an automobile engine, the factory timing setting can usually be found on a sticker in the engine bay.
"Timing advance refers to the number of degrees before top dead center (BTDC) that the spark will ignite the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber during the power stroke. Timing retard refers to the number of degrees after top dead center (ATDC) that the spark will ignite the air-fuel mixture during the power stroke.
Timing advance is required because it takes time to burn the air-fuel mixture. Igniting the mixture before the piston reaches top dead center (TDC) will allow the mixture to become fully burnt soon after the piston reaches TDC. If the air-fuel mixture is ignited at the correct time, maximum pressure in the cylinder will occur sometime after the piston reaches TDC allowing the ignited mixture to push the piston down the cylinder. Ideally, the time at which the mixture should be fully burnt is about 20 degrees ATDC. This will utilize the engine's power producing potential. If the ignition spark occurs at a position that is too advanced relative to piston position, the rapidly expanding air-fuel mixture can actually push against the piston causing detonation and lost power. If the spark occurs too retarded relative to the piston position, maximum cylinder pressure will occur after the piston is already traveling too far down the cylinder. This results in lost power, high emissions, and unburned fuel.
The ignition timing will need to become increasingly advanced (relative to TDC) as the engine speed increases so that the air-fuel mixture has the correct amount of time to fully burn. Another reason for advancing the timing is because as the engine speed increases, fuel consumption increases. Since more fuel is present in the cylinder, the time required to fully burn the air-fuel mixture will be longer. Poor volumetric efficiency at lower engine speeds also requires increased advancement of ignition timing. The correct timing advance for a given engine speed will allow for maximum cylinder pressure to be achieved at the correct crankshaft angular position. When setting the timing for an automobile engine, the factory timing setting can usually be found on a sticker in the engine bay.
06-30-2007 | 07:43 AM
#55
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Joined: 08-12-06
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From: here
Hot Rod mag did a test of octain boosters years ago and found that NONE of them did what they claimed to do. That the little bit of booster chemical used has to be so great that it took more bottles of the stuff then it would have cost to just buy the higher octain gas to begin with.
In the end yes they may raise it a little bit but its no where near as cheap to just put the good stuff in to begin with.
In the end yes they may raise it a little bit but its no where near as cheap to just put the good stuff in to begin with.
06-30-2007 | 11:03 AM
#56
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From: Canada
^^ agreed.
but like i said.
91 is the best some people have available, especially in canada, some places have very limited supply of 94, or none at all.
and I promise you, lucas or NOS racing WILL get a tank of 91, up to 93/94ish octane at least, maybe higher.
but like i said.
91 is the best some people have available, especially in canada, some places have very limited supply of 94, or none at all.
and I promise you, lucas or NOS racing WILL get a tank of 91, up to 93/94ish octane at least, maybe higher.
07-01-2007 | 12:23 AM
#57
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From: Toronto
there is so much mixed opinions going on about this on this forum, about what gas to use.
My personal experience has been this so far:
I have a 2.4ss/sc and when i got the car the dealer said that it would be fine to put in 87 octane. This made my car groggy(lack of better words). It felt very resistive towards accelerating and felt like it was lacking that smooth pick up or acceleration at lower rpms. It actually felt slower than my old 3000lb 1997 2.4 litre altima ka24de that was due for a major tune up. yes it felt slower than that. And that car was rated at 150hp @ 155ft/lbs before the new SAE revision was put into place in 2005. Considering the new revision the ka24de will be approximately around 140hp.
I switched to 91 as per manual recommendation and after running it through a few times, i notice a difference. The engine is more smoother and accelerates more freely. Esp. during more warmer temperatures the engine doesnt struggle as much as it did with 87 in it.
This is my experience, In my limited understanding of automobiles, I would say that this switch from 87 to 91 has made my engine run smoother and increase in acceleration which is usually attributed to some kind of power gain. Some would disagree, but in my experience i think the le5 does definetly unleash all its ponies under 91 treatment compared to 87.
My personal experience has been this so far:
I have a 2.4ss/sc and when i got the car the dealer said that it would be fine to put in 87 octane. This made my car groggy(lack of better words). It felt very resistive towards accelerating and felt like it was lacking that smooth pick up or acceleration at lower rpms. It actually felt slower than my old 3000lb 1997 2.4 litre altima ka24de that was due for a major tune up. yes it felt slower than that. And that car was rated at 150hp @ 155ft/lbs before the new SAE revision was put into place in 2005. Considering the new revision the ka24de will be approximately around 140hp.
I switched to 91 as per manual recommendation and after running it through a few times, i notice a difference. The engine is more smoother and accelerates more freely. Esp. during more warmer temperatures the engine doesnt struggle as much as it did with 87 in it.
This is my experience, In my limited understanding of automobiles, I would say that this switch from 87 to 91 has made my engine run smoother and increase in acceleration which is usually attributed to some kind of power gain. Some would disagree, but in my experience i think the le5 does definetly unleash all its ponies under 91 treatment compared to 87.
07-01-2007 | 02:10 AM
#58
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Joined: 02-18-07
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From: Macomb, MI
there is so much mixed opinions going on about this on this forum, about what gas to use.
My personal experience has been this so far:
I have a 2.4ss/sc and when i got the car the dealer said that it would be fine to put in 87 octane. This made my car groggy(lack of better words). It felt very resistive towards accelerating and felt like it was lacking that smooth pick up or acceleration at lower rpms. It actually felt slower than my old 3000lb 1997 2.4 litre altima ka24de that was due for a major tune up. yes it felt slower than that. And that car was rated at 150hp @ 155ft/lbs before the new SAE revision was put into place in 2005. Considering the new revision the ka24de will be approximately around 140hp.
I switched to 91 as per manual recommendation and after running it through a few times, i notice a difference. The engine is more smoother and accelerates more freely. Esp. during more warmer temperatures the engine doesnt struggle as much as it did with 87 in it.
This is my experience, In my limited understanding of automobiles, I would say that this switch from 87 to 91 has made my engine run smoother and increase in acceleration which is usually attributed to some kind of power gain. Some would disagree, but in my experience i think the le5 does definetly unleash all its ponies under 91 treatment compared to 87.
My personal experience has been this so far:
I have a 2.4ss/sc and when i got the car the dealer said that it would be fine to put in 87 octane. This made my car groggy(lack of better words). It felt very resistive towards accelerating and felt like it was lacking that smooth pick up or acceleration at lower rpms. It actually felt slower than my old 3000lb 1997 2.4 litre altima ka24de that was due for a major tune up. yes it felt slower than that. And that car was rated at 150hp @ 155ft/lbs before the new SAE revision was put into place in 2005. Considering the new revision the ka24de will be approximately around 140hp.
I switched to 91 as per manual recommendation and after running it through a few times, i notice a difference. The engine is more smoother and accelerates more freely. Esp. during more warmer temperatures the engine doesnt struggle as much as it did with 87 in it.
This is my experience, In my limited understanding of automobiles, I would say that this switch from 87 to 91 has made my engine run smoother and increase in acceleration which is usually attributed to some kind of power gain. Some would disagree, but in my experience i think the le5 does definetly unleash all its ponies under 91 treatment compared to 87.
but yeah ive noticed a difference having 91 in compared to 87... 87 sucks in our cars
07-01-2007 | 11:30 AM
#59
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From: Toronto
07-01-2007 | 11:35 AM
#60
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From: Jersey
Crateenginedepot.com
Our Stage 3 kit will take your supercharged Ecotec to a whole new level of performance. Stage 3 takes horsepower output to 248 on 93 octane fuel and to 260 horsepower on 100 octane fuel.
Our Stage 3 kit will take your supercharged Ecotec to a whole new level of performance. Stage 3 takes horsepower output to 248 on 93 octane fuel and to 260 horsepower on 100 octane fuel.
07-01-2007 | 11:48 AM
#61
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From: North Jersey
there is so much mixed opinions going on about this on this forum, about what gas to use.
My personal experience has been this so far:
I have a 2.4ss/sc and when i got the car the dealer said that it would be fine to put in 87 octane. This made my car groggy(lack of better words). It felt very resistive towards accelerating and felt like it was lacking that smooth pick up or acceleration at lower rpms. It actually felt slower than my old 3000lb 1997 2.4 litre altima ka24de that was due for a major tune up. yes it felt slower than that. And that car was rated at 150hp @ 155ft/lbs before the new SAE revision was put into place in 2005. Considering the new revision the ka24de will be approximately around 140hp.
I switched to 91 as per manual recommendation and after running it through a few times, i notice a difference. The engine is more smoother and accelerates more freely. Esp. during more warmer temperatures the engine doesnt struggle as much as it did with 87 in it.
This is my experience, In my limited understanding of automobiles, I would say that this switch from 87 to 91 has made my engine run smoother and increase in acceleration which is usually attributed to some kind of power gain. Some would disagree, but in my experience i think the le5 does definetly unleash all its ponies under 91 treatment compared to 87.
My personal experience has been this so far:
I have a 2.4ss/sc and when i got the car the dealer said that it would be fine to put in 87 octane. This made my car groggy(lack of better words). It felt very resistive towards accelerating and felt like it was lacking that smooth pick up or acceleration at lower rpms. It actually felt slower than my old 3000lb 1997 2.4 litre altima ka24de that was due for a major tune up. yes it felt slower than that. And that car was rated at 150hp @ 155ft/lbs before the new SAE revision was put into place in 2005. Considering the new revision the ka24de will be approximately around 140hp.
I switched to 91 as per manual recommendation and after running it through a few times, i notice a difference. The engine is more smoother and accelerates more freely. Esp. during more warmer temperatures the engine doesnt struggle as much as it did with 87 in it.
This is my experience, In my limited understanding of automobiles, I would say that this switch from 87 to 91 has made my engine run smoother and increase in acceleration which is usually attributed to some kind of power gain. Some would disagree, but in my experience i think the le5 does definetly unleash all its ponies under 91 treatment compared to 87.
it's all in the tune.
07-01-2007 | 11:52 AM
#62
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From: Harker Heights, TX
One thing to remember, after putting the Stage 2 kit in the SS/SC you can no longer run lower then 91 octane without risking blowing something in your engine. You pretty much want to run 93/94 or if your stuck with only 91 in your area get one of the good octane boost to use.
07-01-2007 | 12:23 PM
#63
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From: Toronto
obviously, it was the point of my last statement in the last paragraph. I know im not magically gonna make power or gain hp just by using a better grade fuel.
07-02-2007 | 12:17 PM
#64
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From: Canada
Octane
I just bought a new 2007 SS coupe to replace my 2005 LS coupe. Gm says that the car will run fine on 87 octane but the driver will notice a slight decrease in performance. Running 87 in the car wont hurt it. But if ur already buying gas, 89 shouldnt be that much of a stretch!
07-08-2007 | 01:11 PM
#65
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From: Macomb, MI
I just bought a new 2007 SS coupe to replace my 2005 LS coupe. Gm says that the car will run fine on 87 octane but the driver will notice a slight decrease in performance. Running 87 in the car wont hurt it. But if ur already buying gas, 89 shouldnt be that much of a stretch!
07-08-2007 | 02:24 PM
#66
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From: Canada
I just bought a new 2007 SS coupe to replace my 2005 LS coupe. Gm says that the car will run fine on 87 octane but the driver will notice a slight decrease in performance. Running 87 in the car wont hurt it. But if ur already buying gas, 89 shouldnt be that much of a stretch!
read the manual.
please dont come in here telling people running 87 wont hurt an ss or ss/sc.
07-10-2007 | 10:57 AM
#67
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From: Orlando, FL
you're wasting your money. there's no benefit. stick to the 87. if you're seeing an increase in mileage it's because you're not burning your fuel properly.
there's lots of myths about octane and what it is, so for the record:
1) you do not get more power simply from using higher octane
2) you do not get better mileage from using higher octane
3) using improper octane, whether to high or too low, will HURT the performance of your car more than help.
there's lots of myths about octane and what it is, so for the record:
1) you do not get more power simply from using higher octane
2) you do not get better mileage from using higher octane
3) using improper octane, whether to high or too low, will HURT the performance of your car more than help.
Run the recomended octane rating. Nothing more, nothing less. However if your car calls for 87 and you put 93 in it you might even lose power. The higher the octane the slower the fuel burns. This is why I dont understand the octane booster crap you see at autozone with flames and garbage all over it.
07-10-2007 | 11:52 AM
#68
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From: Harker Heights, TX
Run the recomended octane rating. Nothing more, nothing less. However if your car calls for 87 and you put 93 in it you might even lose power. The higher the octane the slower the fuel burns. This is why I dont understand the octane booster crap you see at autozone with flames and garbage all over it.
is a measure of the autoignition resistance of gasoline (petrol) and other fuels used in spark-ignition internal combustion engines. It is a measure of anti-detonation of a gasoline or fuel.
Octane number is the number which gives the percentage, by volume, of iso-octane in a mixture of iso-octane and normal heptane, that would have the same anti-knocking capacity as the fuel which is under consideration. For example, gasoline with the same knocking characteristics as a mixture of 90% iso-octane and 10% heptane would have an octane rating of 90.
Octane is measured relative to a mixture of iso-octane (2,2,4-trimethylpentane, an isomer of octane) and n-heptane. An 87-octane gasoline, for example, has the same octane rating as a mixture of 87 vol-% isooctane and 13 vol-% n-heptane. This does not mean, however, that the gasoline actually should contain these chemicals in these proportions. It simply means that it has the same autoignition resistance as the described mixture.
A high tendency to autoignite, or low octane rating, is undesirable in a gasoline engine but desirable in a diesel engine. The standard for the combustion quality of diesel fuel is the cetane number. A diesel fuel with a high cetane number has a high tendency to autoignite, as is preferred.
The most common type of octane rating worldwide is the Research Octane Number (RON). RON is determined by running the fuel through a specific test engine with a variable compression ratio under controlled conditions, and comparing these results with those for mixtures of isooctane and n-heptane.
There is another type of octane rating, called Motor Octane Number (MON) or the aviation lean octane rating, which is a better measure of how the fuel behaves when under load. MON testing uses a similar test engine to that used in RON testing, but with a preheated fuel mixture, a higher engine speed, and variable ignition timing to further stress the fuel's knock resistance. Depending on the composition of the fuel, the MON of a modern gasoline will be about 8 to 10 points lower than the RON. Normally fuel specifications require both a minimum RON and a minimum MON.
In most countries (including all of Europe and Australia) the "headline" octane that would be shown on the pump is the RON, but in the United States, Canada and some other countries the headline number is the average of the RON and the MON, sometimes called the Anti-Knock Index (AKI), Road Octane Number (RdON), Pump Octane Number (PON), or (R+M)/2. Because of the 8 to 10 point difference noted above, this means that the octane in the United States will be about 4 to 5 points lower than the same fuel elsewhere: 87 octane fuel, the "regular" gasoline in the US and Canada, would be 91-92 in Europe. However most European pumps deliver 95 (RON) as "regular", equivalent to 90-91 US (R+M)/2, and even deliver 98 (RON) or 100 (RON).
The octane rating may also be a "trade name", with the actual figure being higher than the nominal rating.[citation needed]
It is possible for a fuel to have a RON greater than 100, because isooctane is not the most knock-resistant substance available. Racing fuels, straight ethanol, AvGas and liquified petroleum gas (LPG) typically have octane ratings of 110 or significantly higher - ethanol's RON is 129 (MON 102, AKI 116). Typical "octane booster" additives include tetra-ethyl lead and toluene. Tetra-ethyl lead is easily decomposed to its component radicals, which react with the radicals from the fuel and oxygen that would start the combustion, thereby delaying ignition. This is why leaded gasoline has a higher octane rating than unleaded.
Octane number is the number which gives the percentage, by volume, of iso-octane in a mixture of iso-octane and normal heptane, that would have the same anti-knocking capacity as the fuel which is under consideration. For example, gasoline with the same knocking characteristics as a mixture of 90% iso-octane and 10% heptane would have an octane rating of 90.
Octane is measured relative to a mixture of iso-octane (2,2,4-trimethylpentane, an isomer of octane) and n-heptane. An 87-octane gasoline, for example, has the same octane rating as a mixture of 87 vol-% isooctane and 13 vol-% n-heptane. This does not mean, however, that the gasoline actually should contain these chemicals in these proportions. It simply means that it has the same autoignition resistance as the described mixture.
A high tendency to autoignite, or low octane rating, is undesirable in a gasoline engine but desirable in a diesel engine. The standard for the combustion quality of diesel fuel is the cetane number. A diesel fuel with a high cetane number has a high tendency to autoignite, as is preferred.
The most common type of octane rating worldwide is the Research Octane Number (RON). RON is determined by running the fuel through a specific test engine with a variable compression ratio under controlled conditions, and comparing these results with those for mixtures of isooctane and n-heptane.
There is another type of octane rating, called Motor Octane Number (MON) or the aviation lean octane rating, which is a better measure of how the fuel behaves when under load. MON testing uses a similar test engine to that used in RON testing, but with a preheated fuel mixture, a higher engine speed, and variable ignition timing to further stress the fuel's knock resistance. Depending on the composition of the fuel, the MON of a modern gasoline will be about 8 to 10 points lower than the RON. Normally fuel specifications require both a minimum RON and a minimum MON.
In most countries (including all of Europe and Australia) the "headline" octane that would be shown on the pump is the RON, but in the United States, Canada and some other countries the headline number is the average of the RON and the MON, sometimes called the Anti-Knock Index (AKI), Road Octane Number (RdON), Pump Octane Number (PON), or (R+M)/2. Because of the 8 to 10 point difference noted above, this means that the octane in the United States will be about 4 to 5 points lower than the same fuel elsewhere: 87 octane fuel, the "regular" gasoline in the US and Canada, would be 91-92 in Europe. However most European pumps deliver 95 (RON) as "regular", equivalent to 90-91 US (R+M)/2, and even deliver 98 (RON) or 100 (RON).
The octane rating may also be a "trade name", with the actual figure being higher than the nominal rating.[citation needed]
It is possible for a fuel to have a RON greater than 100, because isooctane is not the most knock-resistant substance available. Racing fuels, straight ethanol, AvGas and liquified petroleum gas (LPG) typically have octane ratings of 110 or significantly higher - ethanol's RON is 129 (MON 102, AKI 116). Typical "octane booster" additives include tetra-ethyl lead and toluene. Tetra-ethyl lead is easily decomposed to its component radicals, which react with the radicals from the fuel and oxygen that would start the combustion, thereby delaying ignition. This is why leaded gasoline has a higher octane rating than unleaded.
You should always use the recommended Octane rating for your engine, unless you have a knock limited engine (mostly boosted or extremely high compression engines) in which case you can get some safety and with a slight increase of timing more performance. Engines that are not knock limited will not get more performance out of high octane fuel even with a tune.
I would like to add that the LSJ is knock limited.
07-10-2007 | 08:11 PM
#69
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From: Orlando, FL
Well sorry I didnt word it right for you. I didnt feel like trying to spell detonation cause I was in a hurry which yes I know is also not technically the right word. I build performance N/A and F/I marine engines that make upwards of 1,200 hp and will turn 5-6-even 7000 rpm all day long without detonation pinging knocking self igniting pre-ignition flame front collision hot spots self ignition or autoignition. Let me know if I missed any. I think I know what i'm talking about. What do you do for a living?
07-11-2007 | 01:22 AM
#70
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From: Harker Heights, TX
Wow noob, don't get all butt hurt. Plus I don't really care what you "claim" to do for a living. Your as likely to be a garbage collector as what you claim to be.
And if you have to even ask what I do for a living, go check your eyes. Look under my nick, look at my Myspace.
And if you have to even ask what I do for a living, go check your eyes. Look under my nick, look at my Myspace.
07-11-2007 | 02:52 AM
#71
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From: Portland, OR
you're wasting your money. there's no benefit. stick to the 87. if you're seeing an increase in mileage it's because you're not burning your fuel properly.
there's lots of myths about octane and what it is, so for the record:
1) you do not get more power simply from using higher octane
2) you do not get better mileage from using higher octane
3) using improper octane, whether to high or too low, will HURT the performance of your car more than help.
there's lots of myths about octane and what it is, so for the record:
1) you do not get more power simply from using higher octane
2) you do not get better mileage from using higher octane
3) using improper octane, whether to high or too low, will HURT the performance of your car more than help.
EDIT:........wow did not see there was four pages of this lol thought it was only one. My post is kinda old news
07-11-2007 | 03:47 AM
#72
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From: Orange, CA
I would also say that the weather has an affect on what octane you should use. I use 89 in the summer and drop to 87 in the winter for my 2.2L. You notice a difference, trust me. Although, I live in arizona, and it has been over 110 degrees for the last several weeks (as high as 118), until today when it dropped to 106.
07-11-2007 | 08:27 AM
#73
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From: North Jersey
false... to the first part. the last three are very correct. anyway the 2.4, for those of you who don't know is tuned for premium/91+ octane gas. it says directly in the manual (for you who can actually read which should be all of you since this is a forum). It states that 87 or 89 can be used but is not recommended and also claims there will be a significant power loss.
EDIT:........wow did not see there was four pages of this lol thought it was only one. My post is kinda old news
EDIT:........wow did not see there was four pages of this lol thought it was only one. My post is kinda old news
07-11-2007 | 09:35 AM
#74
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From: Orlando, FL
Noob? I do beleive I have been on this forum longer than you. I just dont spend all my time posting on here due to the heavy concentration of pompus ********. That doesnt really matter, but get your facts strait. As for butt hurt I was simply having a discussion on a forum. So I assure you I am not in any pain. Go take a social skills class. NOOB.
07-11-2007 | 10:01 AM
#75
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From: Harker Heights, TX
*yawn*
You got all defensive because I pointed out a very commonly believed myth that you used yourself, snapped at me, and talking about your all mighty engine building skills.
Sorry, thats being butt hurt over a comment that was listing technical information and not an attack on you. In fact, if you had bothered to read my post the whole way through it went on to counter a few other myths and misconceptions stated in this thread.
If you want to give advice fine, but if someone calls you on saying something that is false then don't get snappish and start claiming things. Kinda makes you the pompous (not pompus) *******.
You got all defensive because I pointed out a very commonly believed myth that you used yourself, snapped at me, and talking about your all mighty engine building skills.
Sorry, thats being butt hurt over a comment that was listing technical information and not an attack on you. In fact, if you had bothered to read my post the whole way through it went on to counter a few other myths and misconceptions stated in this thread.
If you want to give advice fine, but if someone calls you on saying something that is false then don't get snappish and start claiming things. Kinda makes you the pompous (not pompus) *******.