Not a bad idea. What clutch do you have?

 

Just an Exedy Stage 1 disc (no pucks). I figured "why not" while I've got easy access to it. My cylinder and clutch have always been firm, so I think my cylinder and everything should be able to handle a little more firmness out of the pressure plate, but a new TOB couldn't hurt.

 

With the way the ko4 spools, the stock clutch slipped bad if you hit it at too low of an rpm. Id get something better

 

The exedy stage 1 isn't an OE part, it fits OE obviously, but it's an upgraded "street/racing" clutch kit. I'm pretty sure it should be able to handle a little bit more than the stock clutch. I'm not doing an OE stock clutch replacement. I was looking for an OE throw out bearing replacement. And quick new guy q, is a clutch release bearing the same as a throw out bearing?

Also, need new spark plugs for the setup too. Does anyone have these that are on the zzp site?
Autolite XP Iridium for LNF/LE5

Or if you have something better you'd recommend for a lightly boosted LE5, that'd be sweet.

Thanks!

 

Use ltr7ix or lfr7a

autolite suck. Yea the clutch release bearing is just a different name. Good luck with the stage one clutch

 

New Siemens 60# injectors installed! Noticeably thinner at the tip than the stock:



Hope they fit into their respective holes on the engine properly!

 

You need those buckets off your stock injectors

 

Ok, I can do that. Also, the injector clips don't have grooves to fit into around the new injectors like the stock injectors have. Will they be safe being plugged into the harness and secured with a pretty snug o-ring on either end?

 

Which 60s did you get? Mine have the slots for clips

 

Siemens. I think I may have just pushed them a little too far into the rail. It was late and I was tired haha.

 

Much better

 

Here's the spec sheet on the pistons

 

It's been a little while and thought I'd throw an update y'all's way!

Got the new radiator, clutch release bearing, and intercooler installed last week.



Clearance with the A/C lines was a slight issue on the intercooler but I think we should have enough space:



Ultimately was able to rotate the A/C line up and away from the intercooler outlet. And don't worry, I tightened the IC brackets down appropriately.

As far as the motor goes, it's almost complete! Here's some fresh and clean pics:








Got some time off this week, so looking to put everything back in starting on Tuesday. I'll spend Monday night putting all the electronic sensors, manifolds, accessories, etc back on to the motor.

Should be taking it the following week to Westech Performance Group in LA to get dyno'd!

Oh, and got ZZP's rear sway bar installed. Real nifty way of mounting it, in my opinion.




The shiny black bit sticking out from the hollow portion in the arm is the mounting bracket.

 

Remeber to leave the timing cover off if installing from the top!

 

Haha, thanks Slowbalt! I would if I were going that route. Since I've got it out, I'm gonna bolt on as much of the turbo kit as I can so I've gotta go through the bottom. Dropping the subframe and trans and hopefully putting the motor and trans back together and up into the bay is my plan for Tuesday!

 

thats the best way to do it and install it complete

 

So those pistons clear the oil squirters?

 

So the machine shop did say he had to do a little bit of machining to the skirts so that it would clear perfectly. But it's a close enough product to get you started. And you could ask wiseco to help you out by making sure the clearance is good I'm sure.

 

Well, work didn't let me go as they had promised, so the car project moved along a little slower than I had hoped.




Fresh from the shop after bolting the flywheel on




Intake side




After installing the exedy stage 1 clutch and pressure plate, fairly simple with the included clutch alignment tool




After installing the majority of the accessories on the intake side




Got the shop to install my new ATI UD pulley too!




Got the new manifold on with my locking nut set from Stage 8.




Fairly complete setup, just a couple lines still to install, but coming together nicely. I will say, it is great to be able to bolt on as much as you can with the motor out. And since I'm coming up into the bay, I don't have as many clearance issues.




Finally got the trans dropped today! It only took about 5 hours of actual work, and most of that time was trying to figure out the whole process. But we got it finally. Tomorrow the plan is to mate the trans and motor and get the whole kit back into the bay with the subframe.

Anyhow, it's been busy. Been putting in crazy late hours in my garage, and then spent 9-6 at the hobby shop and I'll probably do the same tomorrow.

Getting close though! Goal is to have it on a trailer to LA for a dyno sesh at Westech Performance on the 26th!

 

Good luck man! Looks good so far.

 

Thanks dude!

Got a little farther over the last couple days:



Got the motor and trans back in yesterday, and even had time to connect the suspension back up and get it rolling! Towed it on a dolly to my apartment.



What it looked like yesterday after getting back.

I've got almost all of the wiring harness connected up now. Fuel line is installed again, EVAP solenoid is back in place, PCM is installed, fuse box is mounted, all of the coolant lines are swapped out and in place with new hose clamps. It's coming along.

Big issue I have now are parts. The O2 downpipe O-Ring exploded on me Saturday. It got crimped the first time we tried fitting it to the downpipe and it just did this:



Of course, I had to take the alternator off as we lowered the body on to the subframe because the AC compressor was in the way. Naturally I set it on the ground and managed to run into it at some point with my boot, right on the electrical connector. So I have a new alternator on the way 😕.

Also, ZZP left out a brass T fitting for the coolant return hose to the expansion tank that T's into the coolant line for the Ko4. So I'm waiting on that too.

And their instructions have me fairly confused. The kit has a hose that has a clip fitting on the end of it, I've got the hose mounted to the vent on the valve cover, but I can't figure out where the plug goes. I think it will go on the air intake, just behind the MAF, but I'm not sure: my intake pipe has a fitting there for it, but the one in their image has that fitting deleted there. And there's a fitting on the compressor side of the turbo it fits too.

As well, I'm supposed to use their 1/4 inch hose to connect a line from the brass fitting on the lower charge pipe to the waste gate actuator on the turbo.

Also, they say to connect a 1/4 inch hose to the line provided that T's into the evap line. I got the evap line installed properly, but I have no idea which port is the bypass valve on the Ko4.

I can't find a diagram anywhere online of the turbo that labels these locations. The least they could do is include a photo with proper installation shown. Or just a photo that labels every port, etc on the thing.

I'm doing a Hallman Manual Boost Controller as well, and the HBC instructions tell me to use the port on the waste gate and a port on the compressor to plug into the MBC. So now do I not need the 1/4 inch hose running to the waste gate actuator? Do I need to plug the fitting that's on that pipe? Also, the fittings I used to mount the MBC had hoses on it already that ran into some type of electrical sensor. I figured disconnecting them wouldn't be a big deal since my harness doesn't have a plug to power that sensor with. Is that kosher?

And finally, zzp provided me with a cone air filter of their own design. It looks really high quality, but the intake pipe/MAF sensor housing has a 3.25 inch opening, and while the initial opening to the filter is around the same diameter, there's an inner lip on it that is only 2.75". So I've tried using quite a bit of force to get the pipe in to the filter, but it won't go. And if it rests on that lip and I secure it with a hose clamp, it doesn't have enough space in the bay to be mounted.





I promise, that lip my index finger is on gets in the way.

Anyways, am I just an idiot and not installing the filter properly? Or do I need to trim it? Or what?

I've got questions out to ZZP so hopefully I'll get some answers once they get to work in the morning. But despite all the work I got done today, it felt disappointing once all these questions started coming up.

If anyone on here has a diagram of a Ko4 with all the important part locations labeled, etc, that would be super helpful. Wish there was a YouTube video showing how to do this install! Haha

 

Anyone know where this connector goes? It's part of the harness that has the O2 sensor plugs, the engine coolant temperature plug, and one that attaches to the transmission just above and forward of the driver-side drive axle:



Also, anyone know where this wire goes? It's routed up to the post on the fuse box and it sits very close to the grounding post on the block where the starter, a ground attached to the frame by the driver headlight, and a ground in the wiring harness all connect (at least I think they all go there!) oh, and it has a read collar on it right before the metal connector.



And does anyone know what this goes to? I thought it was a fog lamp but there isn't a matching plug on the passenger side. It was resting very near my fan housing. I looked up the GM part number on it (25775883) and got a bunch of gm towing kit results...

 

The first connector you posted looks like the coolant temp sensor, if not its one of the two that go in the trans. The last one might be the ambient air temp sensor.

 

Ah, so there are two that go into the trans housing? I'll have to search for it tomorrow. I tried reaching it up to the ECT, but it doesn't reach there, and another plug fit there easily.

And where would the ambient air sensor plug in?

 

the ambient air sensor doesnt plug in anywhere. it looks fine how it is. Yes the trans has two plugs(sensors), one is output speed and the other is for the reverse light