Or buy a 2.4 for cheaper than you would a LSJ or LNF and spend the extra $$ for a Turbo or SC kit and be faster than them stock with the same amount of $$ into them?

 

Yup. The 2.4s have potential that's for sure.

 

I will admit, i did have a **** eating grin when i made that sig rofl, i did half make it to rustle jimmies. Same time i took out the SS in my sig rofl

thats what i did, was very tempted to get an LNF and sell the LE5 + turbo kit money. then when i realized the potential with the ZZP kit....didnt want to spend more total cash and have less power.

Considering how sweet the ecotec platform is in general, there is 10+ years of aftermarket parts, 2.4 has alot of room to grow. can't wait til i save $$ the for my bottom end. only $2500 to go! well maybe a few hundred more, planning on renting a truck and driving to Wyoming Michigan.

I know macgee before he left css.net was doing mid 400's WHP on a LE5, which is stupid quick for a street car. I allready want to get the quaife F23 LSD at my power levels, cant immagine what his 2.4 would of been like LOL.


to add something useful to the expierience of the ZZP kit, i solved my P0128 coolant code, was a thermostat (seems to be the case 99% of the time)

so:
P0010 - Intake cam position / actuator -replaced intake and exhaust solenoids $80 for both

P0121 - Throttle Body position - Cleaned corrosion on circuit/checked with voltometer + cleaned TB

P0128 - Coolant ECT engine not warming up qucikly - Replaced thermostat $70, did coolant as well.

P0171 - Came on for first time last night - bank 1 too lean. i was neutral coasting on highway when it triggered, probably nothing, cleared it, hasn't came back on yet.

Not sure if these are because of the kit, they are all normal reported LE5 Maintenace issues on stock LE5's as well

Seized/old thermostat pics - notice the black rubber seal, causing the thermostat to jam

 

i had the same thing happen to the t stat on my 2.2, i would only get to like 160 degrees, replaced it and its soo much nicer now!! lol

 

Displacement particularly in our engines isnt everything. The head and cam work is where people are seeing the biggest gains.

Just as a reference for that whole spend less get more.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/dyno...2012-a-272372/

There are 13 LSJ and 10 LNF 2.0 motors making over 400 but only ONE 2.4 making it there with just a turbo kit.

 

cubic inch is everything in any platform the bigger the engine the easier it is to make HP and TQ just because its not on some list on css dose not mean ****

 

What I meant was its not the deciding factor. A turbo swap on a 2.0 LSJ makes well over 400 with a turbo swap. The 2.4 just isnt doing that with the same mods.

A similar modded 2.4 vs 2.0 made 324whp at 14 psi, the LSJ made 338 at 15 psi. Both on E. Very close considering dyno numbers can be off a considerable amount; if the displacement was everything there would be very different results.

All I am saying is the the 2.4 is a great motor, but the LSJ is superior and doing it with less displacement.

 

if cubic in didn't matter look at the zzp 2.3 vs a 2.0 on a m62 what did the cubic inch help do it helped the m62 make over 400hp
if you rake a 2.4 and a lsj put the same snail on them the 2.4 will out hp and tq the 2.0 on

but for the 2.4 to compete you need to fix the weak link

cubic inches matter on any platform

 

well I got a question to get this thread back on track:

how did you guys hook up your boost gauges? I have the little nylon line with the brass fittings on the end but IDK how I can hook that up to the manifold. Thanks

 

I tapped the line coming from my throttle body that was originally the EVAP purge line but removed that and isntalled the BRFPS, it now became my pressure line to increase my fuel pressure using the ZZP kit. I then ran a "T" into that line for the gauge. It really doesnt matter where you tap to get your gauge reading as long as its between the throttle body and the head (intake manifold, post TB).

 

I need help.

In this pic, timing is being pulled at shifts, I thought all TQ Manag was removed, but must not be. Anybody care to look and see ? Also Commanded AFR drops out at one point too ?????
It is 11.5-1 then drops to 10.1-1 ???? PE table is 11.5-1 all across.
Seeeeeeeee
I neeeeeeeed HELP !

 

what in the world is going on with your jagged little lines?

 

your way too rich at WOT. something is wrong with that timing tho, wanna post the tune?

 

Can't post a tune here, need to send it e-mail.

Working on tuning AFR for WOT, got the low MAF close.

 

check to make sure all your spark muiltiplers are zero-ed out, theres a million on the e67 pcm so it could be something weird like that. also with the PE make cure COT and those multipliers are all zero as well. maybe check your open loop eq graph too just to be thorough

 

edit: nvm answered my own question

 

hey cherry gt,

how do you have EGT, AFR, and Fuel Pressure on your HPT? I have got to get mine setup for that. My AFR's right now are monitored on a gauge, I can recall the run with it but it doesnt display on my hpt.

 

do you have hpt pro?

the connectors on the side of the module are for voltage inputs, you create equations for what the voltages mean then give them the proper names in HPT.

for example the aem wideband has a 0-5v output based on afr/lambda, so you add the output wire from the aem to the hpt pro module then add the user configured PID to the scanner.


edit: I hope you haven't been tuning your MAF high without this.....

 

i have hpt standard. I know there are 5 volt inputs on the HPT pro, but use my wideband in the car and the wideband on the dyno to tune. I am running the LC-1 controller and G3 gauge from innovate. Its good stuff. You can tune without HPT pro, people do it all the time. I figured he was using the inputs on HPT but wasnt sure if some of that was form the 2.4 liter inputs.

 

so your not tuning MAF high high off afr error?

I'd definitely suggest that you use your ac press sensor to log afr so you can get afr error. There's a how-to on it, but essentially all you have to do is disconnect the ac pressure signal wire and connect that to your wideband voltage output, then make a custom PID using that to determine afr.

Tuning WOT any other way then AFR error on a maf only setup is just unnecessary risk

edit: found it https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-...ctures-275518/

 

I tried it for a short time, I am going to go buy HPT pro and upgrade right now.

 

good idea

 

Its 289 bucks to upgrade but I think it will be worth it, I have to ship my box back to them. I have since learned that you can log the car without a laptop! That is going to be awesome. I can log everyday and if the car hiccups I can go find out why. So far the car is so dialed in its nice to have my daily driver back running 24 psi daily (about 430whp) is just so much fun. When I start running it at 27psi I will really want the HPT pro to log daily for those just in case situations.

 

The fuel pressure is a standard PID in the e67 ecm and you should be able to log that without the pro version.

Like he said above I have the pro and the AFR, EGT are input to the EIO of the HP Tuner to log them.

I'll look for that stuff after work and see.
The tune is posted at HPT if you'd be so kind to have a little glance at it sometime.
What causes this TQ Mang. I need help.

Thanks

 

i dont think the lsj ecm will do it.