save enough for stage 1 turbo from zzp????
just saying, i enjoy mine with stock exhaust lol.... of course there is consequences.... like crack turbo manifold from too much back pressure lol
and burnt out clutch of course going to have the kit for a 1 year next month.

 

Are you people retarded??? simple question..... No one has said anything about a ss/tc , so what the **** are you people bitching about?

He already said he doesn't want to boost it, he said it's his dd so he wants it reliable, he said he is short on cash and is in school. So again do a few minor appearance mods.... maybe fe5 suspension and enjoy it till you can save and afford something better!

 

Wow I can't believe how much response I've gotten so quickly. I appreciate everybody's input.

I'll just re-iterate what I said about not wanting boost. I've just come straight out of a '96 Firebird. I had to get rid of my baby because of our brutal Canadian winters. (any canucks will know what I mean) I've got stiffer springs swapped in but I can't lower it, again thanks to our winters.

I just ordered a CAI this afternoon, should be here by the weekend. But now I'm wondering, both for sound and performance, does it pay to go with a full catback? Or would a simple high flow muffler and swapping the resonator with a glasspack give close enough gains in both sound and performance to justify saving the coin?

Again thanks guys

 

if your gonna do anything to the exhaust swap out the downpipe with a highflow as thats the most restrictive part on the exhaust

 

lol well if I could pick I'd buy an SS T/C... or even S/C

but I originally drove a 1990 cavalier Z24 3spd auto, and I bought this car cuz it was a stick shift and it was five grand lmfao!!

these cars are ok, its pretty damn quick.. FOR WHAT IT IS, but yeah, a few bolt one + tune should wake it up pretty good.

but.. cat back = Almost $400 new
Intake = $300 new
Header = $300 new
You're up to $1100, most used M62 kits go for that, and you'll net a **** load more HP with a blower then all that crap.

 

I'm not really after that terribly much horsepower actually. As I said I'm coming straight out of a Firebird and believe me, I don't have the funds to make a FWD Cobalt compete with my old bird. That's why I don't care much to boost it.

 

thats why i put it lol
but intake, headers and exhaust would be good, tune later when you have or if you the money
if you dont like lower why dont you get a SRI.
I like SRI for one reason, specially for down here in south florida.... rain+floods lol, i dont have to worry about the car drinking water or anything like that lol

if it is appearance, the best one and expensive (IMO) is retrofits headlights. some painted chevy logos if you dont like the gold chevy...
rims maybe, i like the ss/na rims, cant complain there but i like the one from the g6 gtp, they look good on the car

 

The mentaility of this site is that if its not a SS/SC or a SS/TC then its not worth your time to put money into performance.

He wants to make his car quicker, he doesn't want to buy a new car...nor does he need to make something fast.

2.4 are great motors and for way less that trading in on a new car he could make something as fast/faster than anything you could trade "up" into.

Its obviously not the best "bang for the buck" but since when has responsible financial decisions been synonymous with moddifying cars as a whole?


Plus who wants a "factory fast" car anyways?

 

^like

and op honestly i think it would be worth it to either buy a cheap used catback or a cheaper new one. i absolutely love my magnaflow, crackles and sounds like sex at wot. plus the stock system is restrictive at the over axle part, not the resonator or muffler, therefore only performance gains would basically come from that.

 

im with you. just save up your money and get something else if you want to go faster.

i personally went for looks to get me by til i decide what i want next.

 

I say cai, full exhaust, ptb, tune and does someone make cam gears or underdrive pulley? If so I say all those

 

[QUOTE=newt;5924253]The mentaility of this site is that if its not a SS/SC or a SS/TC then its not worth your time to put money into performance.

He wants to make his car quicker, he doesn't want to buy a new car...nor does he need to make something fast.

2.4 are great motors and for way less that trading in on a new car he could make something as fast/faster than anything you could trade "up" into.

Its obviously not the best "bang for the buck" but since when has responsible financial decisions been synonymous with moddifying cars as a whole?


Plus who wants a "factory fast" car anyways?[/QUOTE]

 

correct. I got the cti over the axel kit and then chopped my stock muffler off and swapped in a dynomax muffler and it sounds real good.

 

david, he drives a sunfire what do you expect haha

 

I have a Cobalt SS 2.4 as well with 108,000 miles. It's my daily commuter and the engine seems to be holding up well with the way I've been driving it lol.

Like what most people said, I'd start out with just an intake and full exhaust, it should at least give you that small added power you're looking for.

As for me, I just started with the looks like new wheels and some Eibach Sportlines.
I don't have any plans to trade mine in and if my budget allows me, a Stage 1 ZZP Turbo Kit is my next goal in mind.

 

Full quality exhaust/intake/tune is expensive for a college guy on a budget, which he says he is. With cheap and effective in mind, I'd go towards zzp intake tube/k&n drop in, lsj downpipe, cti over axle kit. This will open up the kinks in the intake and exhaust on a budget. If $$ left, get a tune.

 

coming from some1 with a crappy base model. id rather build what i have rather than buy it so i respect what others have done.

i would do full bolt ons and a tune and a cai. sure boost would be the most recommended but most dont want it or would have just bought it to begin with.

 

/\
bang!
this is good way to put it, and save you a lot of money. i would leave the tune for last after putting all bolts-on.

Question: i thought the muffler of the 2.4 it was really restrictive, and that the ss/tc muffler is less restrictive, can someone verify me these. This info i have got it from others that told me. This is a mod i want to do, change mufflers only.

 

Hey pardon my ignorance what does ptb stand for? lol

Anybody know where I could shop for a tune north of the border? (specifically MB)

 

if im not mistaken is Ported Throttle Body

 

Ah thank you sir

 

To op-Trifecta is a mail order tune, he ships to Canada and you can datalog so vince can taylor the tune specifically for your car. Also I'm in college and I found the best way to mod is to buy slightly used parts. U have intake full exhaust (putting on this weekend) and other little things and I paid around 600 for everything. The most expensive being the catback.

To dfz24 the muffler isn't as restirctive as the 2 inch over axel part of our stock catback. I would say just get a catback or the cti over axel

 

[QUOTE=Dblock;5924766]Yes, you bought a factory fast car, probably put some bolt-on's on it and then got someone else to tune it....I'm impressed? LUL WUT?!?!11!?!?11??!!


I take much more pride in taking a car that wasn't meant to be fast and making it faster, yes its not ecomonical but who cares, where is the fun when someone else does all the work for you?


And for the dude who said I drive a sunfire, yes, I do drive a Sunfire....it makes 169whp All-Motor and runs faster than 50% of the SS/TC's on this site. 100% built and tuned by myself.


I like working on my own car, buying a factory fast car is the "easy way out" IMO, its the least amount of time and effort to go fast......that might be appealing to some....but not to me.

 

I've got ZZPs Catted DP from the SC kit on hand collecting dust. Direct bolt on, $80 shipped.

For an Auto, not sure what you've got for tranny.

 

would it apply to boosted ones too??? if i can i will get the cti and a ss/tc muffler, because ss/tc is better than the ss/sc
also the person that tune my car is saying that he can add more timing because of the restriction of the muffler. he adds the timing but after doing a test run and going back to the computer the timing goes back to the previous time.