if it makes you feel better my car dyno'd 148/148 stock with a catback

 

I would be unhappy with 160whp too lol

 

thats 5 more hp than mine dynoed fully bolted before tune......

 

i dyno 141 and 116 with cams
nwea dyno 180 160

between dyno is not accurate
each run on the same dyno can vary

but still the fastest on the track

 

if ur into n/a powuh, just go honda. the build quality is even better. lol. makes me wonder why i sold mine.

 

word.

 

I was looking at the Honda I went with the cobalt instead. Should of gotten the Honda. Then again I always had a car with good low end torque, and I dont think the torque-less Honda would cut it for me. I enjoy good acceleration from torque. I have driven a friend's SI. I didn't like the lack of torque.

 

idk, ive never dynoed my car, but i will be on the 30th. i have a K&N SRI and Megan Catback. i ran a 14.94 @ 93.3.

not sure hwats up with yours . 16.0 is pretty slow. i ran 15.3 with just my K&N

 

low end tq is good for driving around i agree, but i had no problems with my 06 si. i didnt mind revving it to 3.5-4k before shifting, and it still scooted good. also, the top end absolutely kills the 2.4 balts top end. the honda makes more torque up top than the balt does, where it counts in a race.

 

sorry, just clicked on this topic because it was one of the most recent post and then got a laugh out of it:

1.) dyno numbers don't mean ****

2.) if N/A power is what you want, you bought the wrong car... not only that, IMO, you bought an engine with the wrong number of cylinders

 

agreed!

 

some ppl like n/a 4 bangers for some reason. ive seen plenty of n/a hondas compete with the big block v8's in the 1/4. altho ill give you you can always make more power out of a v8. to me its just more fun being the underdog.

 

N/A power is what I want because I can't afford to buy a turbo kit and it would probably take a year or 2 just to even save up $2500. That and I can't pay to play. I can't afford to fix **** that breaks so that's why I keep my warranty intact. And no I bought an engine with the correct number of cylinders. I didn't buy a mustang GT cause 4cyl gets better mpg.

Also no one yet has explained why the lines are so squiggly. Detonation? Knock/ping? Misfire? Timing retard? Should I use 93 octane instead of 91? I've checked my spark plugs they look normal but I never checked the gaps cause I don't have a gap checker. Should I maybe run colder plugs?

I was just reading this http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html And I was wondering. Could my torque damper be creating vibration or movement? It's not a solid mount but a shock absorber that of course moves. Maybe it causes my engine to slightly rock back and forth while accelerating? Which could trip the knock sensor and pull timing according to that web site. Or if not that, the shop that installed my downpipe have the cat very close to the heat shield which causes vibration sometimes. Maybe that's another reason. Maybe the engine thinks it's knock and is retarding the timing. IDK you guys tell me

 

Yeah I wouldn't base how ur car runs off dyno numbers. Ive been to 3 different dynojets and gotten 3 different outcomes...244, 257, and 265 all with the same mods. But Yo u have good numbers, don't sweat it! I only did 149(best) before my swap. With only my 270whp i still rape **** all day so im sure u can walk alot of n/a cars out there. Here's one with before and after on it: