Now that I'm SC'd, what's next?!
#76
Yeah that is very true, good point, I didn't even think about that. I bought a stage 2 belt but I still have the stock pulley. I'm just going to buy the ZZP modular pulley system on Thursday. Maybe a 2.8 pulley. How is your car with the 2.9?
And I appreciate the input you've given the both of us! Thank you
And I appreciate the input you've given the both of us! Thank you
And no problem just trying to help
#77
Well now I'm confused. He has an idler and using the stock LE5 tensioner, the one you have to lift with a bar through the fender. As far as I know, this is how Beck ran his. Unless he took off that tensioner pulley and replaced it the the LSJ ribbed pulley? I'm so confused on this belt setup now lol
#78
Like I said, I just have to figure out exactly what I need to run this stage 2 belt. I mean with an idler, that obviously doesn't move. So does the LE5 tensioner pulley need to be bigger? Or does that whole tensioner need to be replaced? My brain is having a hard time wrapping itself around this subject, unfortunately....
#79
Ohhhh haha I didn't really pay attention to the pic I assumed it was an lsj tensioner from how it was routed. Well somethings gotta be messed up for sure if you were able to fit a stage 2 belt on stock pulley. Do you have spacers on your alternator? I know when I was running zzps setup I had to use like 1 inch spacers. That setup sucked. I hated taking belt off and putting it on. Lsj setup is so much easier.
#80
Ohhhh haha I didn't really pay attention to the pic I assumed it was an lsj tensioner from how it was routed. Well somethings gotta be messed up for sure if you were able to fit a stage 2 belt on stock pulley. Do you have spacers on your alternator? I know when I was running zzps setup I had to use like 1 inch spacers. That setup sucked. I hated taking belt off and putting it on. Lsj setup is so much easier.
#81
Haha I know that will happen to me. As soon as my SC build is done I'm going to buy an extra LE5 motor and build it and turbo it.
Like I said, I just have to figure out exactly what I need to run this stage 2 belt. I mean with an idler, that obviously doesn't move. So does the LE5 tensioner pulley need to be bigger? Or does that whole tensioner need to be replaced? My brain is having a hard time wrapping itself around this subject, unfortunately....
Like I said, I just have to figure out exactly what I need to run this stage 2 belt. I mean with an idler, that obviously doesn't move. So does the LE5 tensioner pulley need to be bigger? Or does that whole tensioner need to be replaced? My brain is having a hard time wrapping itself around this subject, unfortunately....
#82
I'd save yourself the headache and just get a lsj setup. The way I used to have it was there was a idler bracket that spaced the alternator out. Just remembered about it so sorry about the wrong info on the other post. I hated that setup. So hard to move belt around. Swapping to lsj made it wayy easier.
#84
I'm just going by my experience with it. I went through 2 tensioners and a belt. Never had a good experience with stock le5 tensioner and a idler setup but im sure others have made it work for them.
#85
#87
Is this how my belt is supposed to be run?
Is there a chance that I may have put the belt on incorrectly? Or is that impossible to do.
I think my belt runs from the tensioner, over the top of the idler, to over the SC pulley to down the front side of the AC pulley.
Here's a picture of how I'm running.
Is there a chance that I may have put the belt on incorrectly? Or is that impossible to do.
I think my belt runs from the tensioner, over the top of the idler, to over the SC pulley to down the front side of the AC pulley.
Here's a picture of how I'm running.
#88
Well now I'm confused. He has an idler and using the stock LE5 tensioner, the one you have to lift with a bar through the fender. As far as I know, this is how Beck ran his. Unless he took off that tensioner pulley and replaced it the the LSJ ribbed pulley? I'm so confused on this belt setup now lol
on my second supercharged 2.4 i ran the LSJ tensioner and lsj idler. the lsj idler replaces the le5 tensioner completely and the new lsj tensioner is installed by using the bracket that mounts behind the alternator (and also spaces it out). to remove the belt on this set up the oem LSJ tensioner has to be depressed from the top of the engine compartment.
#89
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Is this the old Kit from PJK91? looks like you're running the Rebel Auto Worx custom idler designed to take the place of the LSJ tensioner. That is the same set up i ran on my first supercharged cobalt. I dont recall having to space the alternator out. Shoot me a pic of your boost bypass valve. I know if you dont connect the hoses properly on the boost bypass valve that it can limit your boost.
#90
on my first supercharged 2.4 i ran the LE5 tensioner and a customer idler made by Rebel Auto Worx that fit where the OEM LSJ tensioner sits. No alternator spacer required. With this setup you need to put a bar through the frame rail to compress the tensioner and remove the belt.
on my second supercharged 2.4 i ran the LSJ tensioner and lsj idler. the lsj idler replaces the le5 tensioner and the new lsj tensioner is installed by using the bracket that mounts behind the alternator (and also spaces it out). to remove the belt on this set up the oem LSJ tensioner has to be depressed from the top of the engine compartment.
on my second supercharged 2.4 i ran the LSJ tensioner and lsj idler. the lsj idler replaces the le5 tensioner and the new lsj tensioner is installed by using the bracket that mounts behind the alternator (and also spaces it out). to remove the belt on this set up the oem LSJ tensioner has to be depressed from the top of the engine compartment.
#92
If everything came off the other car working fine and boosting around 9-10psi like it should. its likely a boost/vacuum leak. spray some brake cleaner around the intake manifold gasket, supercharger gasket, throttle body gasket. Do you have the little Green o ring that seals the endplate to bottom of boost bypass housing?
#93
on my first supercharged 2.4 i ran the LE5 tensioner and a customer idler made by Rebel Auto Worx that fit where the OEM LSJ tensioner sits. No alternator spacer required. With this setup you need to put a bar through the frame rail to compress the tensioner and remove the belt. The only tensioner on this style pulley set up is the OEM Le5 tensioner.
on my second supercharged 2.4 i ran the LSJ tensioner and lsj idler. the lsj idler replaces the le5 tensioner completely and the new lsj tensioner is installed by using the bracket that mounts behind the alternator (and also spaces it out). to remove the belt on this set up the oem LSJ tensioner has to be depressed from the top of the engine compartment.
on my second supercharged 2.4 i ran the LSJ tensioner and lsj idler. the lsj idler replaces the le5 tensioner completely and the new lsj tensioner is installed by using the bracket that mounts behind the alternator (and also spaces it out). to remove the belt on this set up the oem LSJ tensioner has to be depressed from the top of the engine compartment.
But thank you for your input Beck. Definitely appreciated!
#94
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If everything came off the other car working fine and boosting around 9-10psi like it should. its likely a boost/vacuum leak. spray some brake cleaner around the intake manifold gasket, supercharger gasket, throttle body gasket. Do you have the little Green o ring that seals the endplate to bottom of boost bypass housing?
#95
could be a kink or slit in the line running to the boost gauge I had one of the fittings on my boost gauge line blow out. I actually ran a copper line and got rid of the nylon one.
#96
BTW, did you know we're going to be running near identical setups? :P
#97
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As for the same setups Chaos, I'm glad were going through this together lol.
#98
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Alright so went through all intake areas that I could reach. Only spots inaccessible was the lower section of the intake manifold. Everything else I sprayed the **** out of, and no weird idle surges.
#99
Not sure man. seems like you've got everything ran as it should. I had a similar issue. ended up being my boost gauge line, but in the process i took out the intake manifold and removed the S/C just to be sure.
#100
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I can only think it's the gauge. Is there another way to install a sub-par boost gauge and see?
The gauge reads good vac, 19-20in/hg but when it goes into boost, I can spike to 5 then it drops down to 2-4 psi. I can't hold boost at 5psi unless I'm near like 5k rpm in 2nd-3rd gear.
The gauge reads good vac, 19-20in/hg but when it goes into boost, I can spike to 5 then it drops down to 2-4 psi. I can't hold boost at 5psi unless I'm near like 5k rpm in 2nd-3rd gear.