2.4L LE5 Performance Tech 16 valve 171 hp EcoTec with 163 lb-ft of torque

Now that I'm SC'd, what's next?!

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Old 09-02-2013 | 01:42 PM
  #76  
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From: Pharr
Originally Posted by Chaos_Six
Yeah that is very true, good point, I didn't even think about that. I bought a stage 2 belt but I still have the stock pulley. I'm just going to buy the ZZP modular pulley system on Thursday. Maybe a 2.8 pulley. How is your car with the 2.9?

And I appreciate the input you've given the both of us! Thank you
The cars good. Have fun here and there. Still want more power lol.

And no problem just trying to help
Old 09-02-2013 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Twoozofjuice
There's your problem...I think lol. Youre running 2 tensioners. Prolly the reason the stage 2 belt even goes on in the first place. You need to get a lsj idler pulley. Replaces le5 tensioner.
Well now I'm confused. He has an idler and using the stock LE5 tensioner, the one you have to lift with a bar through the fender. As far as I know, this is how Beck ran his. Unless he took off that tensioner pulley and replaced it the the LSJ ribbed pulley? I'm so confused on this belt setup now lol
Old 09-02-2013 | 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Twoozofjuice
The cars good. Have fun here and there. Still want more power lol.

And no problem just trying to help
Haha I know that will happen to me. As soon as my SC build is done I'm going to buy an extra LE5 motor and build it and turbo it.

Like I said, I just have to figure out exactly what I need to run this stage 2 belt. I mean with an idler, that obviously doesn't move. So does the LE5 tensioner pulley need to be bigger? Or does that whole tensioner need to be replaced? My brain is having a hard time wrapping itself around this subject, unfortunately....
Old 09-02-2013 | 02:02 PM
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Ohhhh haha I didn't really pay attention to the pic I assumed it was an lsj tensioner from how it was routed. Well somethings gotta be messed up for sure if you were able to fit a stage 2 belt on stock pulley. Do you have spacers on your alternator? I know when I was running zzps setup I had to use like 1 inch spacers. That setup sucked. I hated taking belt off and putting it on. Lsj setup is so much easier.
Old 09-02-2013 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Twoozofjuice
Ohhhh haha I didn't really pay attention to the pic I assumed it was an lsj tensioner from how it was routed. Well somethings gotta be messed up for sure if you were able to fit a stage 2 belt on stock pulley. Do you have spacers on your alternator? I know when I was running zzps setup I had to use like 1 inch spacers. That setup sucked. I hated taking belt off and putting it on. Lsj setup is so much easier.
IIRC he doesn't have the alternator spaced
Old 09-02-2013 | 02:10 PM
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From: Pharr
Originally Posted by Chaos_Six
Haha I know that will happen to me. As soon as my SC build is done I'm going to buy an extra LE5 motor and build it and turbo it.

Like I said, I just have to figure out exactly what I need to run this stage 2 belt. I mean with an idler, that obviously doesn't move. So does the LE5 tensioner pulley need to be bigger? Or does that whole tensioner need to be replaced? My brain is having a hard time wrapping itself around this subject, unfortunately....
I'd save yourself the headache and just get a lsj setup. The way I used to have it was there was a idler bracket that spaced the alternator out. Just remembered about it so sorry about the wrong info on the other post. I hated that setup. So hard to move belt around. Swapping to lsj made it wayy easier.
Old 09-02-2013 | 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Twoozofjuice
I'd save yourself the headache and just get a lsj setup. The way I used to have it was there was a idler bracket that spaced the alternator out. Just remembered about it so sorry about the wrong info on the other post. I hated that setup. So hard to move belt around. Swapping to lsj made it wayy easier.
Okay. I'm going to look around for a tensioner and bracket then, might as well do it the easy way the first time rather than taking it all apart to replace it later.
Old 09-02-2013 | 02:35 PM
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Yeah no spacers on my alternator. Do I need them? Or should I just buy an LSJ alternator and install that?
Old 09-02-2013 | 02:36 PM
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From: Pharr
Originally Posted by Chaos_Six
Okay. I'm going to look around for a tensioner and bracket then, might as well do it the easy way the first time rather than taking it all apart to replace it later.
I'm just going by my experience with it. I went through 2 tensioners and a belt. Never had a good experience with stock le5 tensioner and a idler setup but im sure others have made it work for them.
Old 09-02-2013 | 02:37 PM
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From: Pharr
Originally Posted by Jacob4ta
Yeah no spacers on my alternator. Do I need them? Or should I just buy an LSJ alternator and install that?
lsj alternator is the same I think. I used my stock alternator the whole time until like maybe 3 months ago I switched to lsj because my stock one went bad.
Old 09-02-2013 | 02:39 PM
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So I just need some 1" spacers on my alternator, as well as the bolts to accompany them? This will tighten up my belt?
Old 09-02-2013 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Jacob4ta
Is this how my belt is supposed to be run?


Is there a chance that I may have put the belt on incorrectly? Or is that impossible to do.

I think my belt runs from the tensioner, over the top of the idler, to over the SC pulley to down the front side of the AC pulley.

Here's a picture of how I'm running.

Is this the old Kit from PJK91? looks like you're running the Rebel Auto Worx custom idler designed to take the place of the LSJ tensioner. That is the same set up i ran on my first supercharged cobalt. I dont recall having to space the alternator out. Shoot me a pic of your boost bypass valve. I know if you dont connect the hoses properly on the boost bypass valve that it can limit your boost.
Old 09-02-2013 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Chaos_Six
Well now I'm confused. He has an idler and using the stock LE5 tensioner, the one you have to lift with a bar through the fender. As far as I know, this is how Beck ran his. Unless he took off that tensioner pulley and replaced it the the LSJ ribbed pulley? I'm so confused on this belt setup now lol
on my first supercharged 2.4 i ran the LE5 tensioner and a customer idler made by Rebel Auto Worx that fit where the OEM LSJ tensioner sits. No alternator spacer required. With this setup you need to put a bar through the frame rail to compress the tensioner and remove the belt. The only tensioner on this style pulley set up is the OEM Le5 tensioner.

on my second supercharged 2.4 i ran the LSJ tensioner and lsj idler. the lsj idler replaces the le5 tensioner completely and the new lsj tensioner is installed by using the bracket that mounts behind the alternator (and also spaces it out). to remove the belt on this set up the oem LSJ tensioner has to be depressed from the top of the engine compartment.
Old 09-02-2013 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Beck

Is this the old Kit from PJK91? looks like you're running the Rebel Auto Worx custom idler designed to take the place of the LSJ tensioner. That is the same set up i ran on my first supercharged cobalt. I dont recall having to space the alternator out. Shoot me a pic of your boost bypass valve. I know if you dont connect the hoses properly on the boost bypass valve that it can limit your boost.
Here's my bypass valve.

Old 09-02-2013 | 02:49 PM
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From: Pharr
Originally Posted by Beck
on my first supercharged 2.4 i ran the LE5 tensioner and a customer idler made by Rebel Auto Worx that fit where the OEM LSJ tensioner sits. No alternator spacer required. With this setup you need to put a bar through the frame rail to compress the tensioner and remove the belt.

on my second supercharged 2.4 i ran the LSJ tensioner and lsj idler. the lsj idler replaces the le5 tensioner and the new lsj tensioner is installed by using the bracket that mounts behind the alternator (and also spaces it out). to remove the belt on this set up the oem LSJ tensioner has to be depressed from the top of the engine compartment.
I've never seen that setup besides right now. How was it with having to take off the belt and put it on? I ran zzps idler setup that they send and it was dreadful. Had so much trouble with it and the belt would be really tight. Switched to lsj because i got tired of breaking tensioners with it.
Old 09-02-2013 | 02:51 PM
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From: Pharr
Originally Posted by Jacob4ta
Here's my bypass valve.

get some zipties on that boost gauge line :p haha

the boost bypass looks like its right
Old 09-02-2013 | 02:56 PM
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If everything came off the other car working fine and boosting around 9-10psi like it should. its likely a boost/vacuum leak. spray some brake cleaner around the intake manifold gasket, supercharger gasket, throttle body gasket. Do you have the little Green o ring that seals the endplate to bottom of boost bypass housing?
Old 09-02-2013 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Beck
on my first supercharged 2.4 i ran the LE5 tensioner and a customer idler made by Rebel Auto Worx that fit where the OEM LSJ tensioner sits. No alternator spacer required. With this setup you need to put a bar through the frame rail to compress the tensioner and remove the belt. The only tensioner on this style pulley set up is the OEM Le5 tensioner.

on my second supercharged 2.4 i ran the LSJ tensioner and lsj idler. the lsj idler replaces the le5 tensioner completely and the new lsj tensioner is installed by using the bracket that mounts behind the alternator (and also spaces it out). to remove the belt on this set up the oem LSJ tensioner has to be depressed from the top of the engine compartment.
Okay, then I'm going to run mine the same way as your first build, Beck. Except I have my own custom idler. I discovered that if you take that motor hook off (where the idler bolts to) and turn it upside down so the bolt holes still match, your idler will sit in the same area as the LSJ tensioner. I used the hook as a template and made my own. (: I think I've made up my mind to try this then rather than go buy the LSJ stuff. If it doesn't work, or is a pain, I'll look into the LSJ tensioner. But as far as you already doing it and proving that this works, I might as well give it a shot since I already have all the parts to go ahead and put the belt on. Well, almost all the parts, for the idler pulley I'm using the oversized tensioner pulley from ZZP. I'll get some pics up of my belt setup when it's complete and on the car.

But thank you for your input Beck. Definitely appreciated!
Old 09-02-2013 | 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Beck
If everything came off the other car working fine and boosting around 9-10psi like it should. its likely a boost/vacuum leak. spray some brake cleaner around the intake manifold gasket, supercharger gasket, throttle body gasket. Do you have the little Green o ring that seals the endplate to bottom of boost bypass housing?
Yes parts went from one car to the other, and yes, that little green seal ring is still installed on the intake manifold. I've tried with the brake cleaner once before, but I'll give it a shot again and just double check everything once more.
Old 09-02-2013 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Jacob4ta
Yes parts went from one car to the other, and yes, that little green seal ring is still installed on the intake manifold. I've tried with the brake cleaner once before, but I'll give it a shot again and just double check everything once more.
could be a kink or slit in the line running to the boost gauge I had one of the fittings on my boost gauge line blow out. I actually ran a copper line and got rid of the nylon one.
Old 09-02-2013 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Jacob4ta
Yes parts went from one car to the other, and yes, that little green seal ring is still installed on the intake manifold. I've tried with the brake cleaner once before, but I'll give it a shot again and just double check everything once more.
Interested to see what you find.

BTW, did you know we're going to be running near identical setups? :P
Old 09-02-2013 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Beck

could be a kink or slit in the line running to the boost gauge I had one of the fittings on my boost gauge line blow out. I actually ran a copper line and got rid of the nylon one.
That was something Pat had mentioned to me about the boost line. When I got home I tested the line on the gauge and sure enough it leaked! So I drove to Pepboys and picked up a whole new setup, vac and pressure tested it. All worked just fine.

As for the same setups Chaos, I'm glad were going through this together lol.
Old 09-02-2013 | 03:20 PM
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Alright so went through all intake areas that I could reach. Only spots inaccessible was the lower section of the intake manifold. Everything else I sprayed the **** out of, and no weird idle surges.
Old 09-02-2013 | 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Jacob4ta
Alright so went through all intake areas that I could reach. Only spots inaccessible was the lower section of the intake manifold. Everything else I sprayed the **** out of, and no weird idle surges.
Not sure man. seems like you've got everything ran as it should. I had a similar issue. ended up being my boost gauge line, but in the process i took out the intake manifold and removed the S/C just to be sure.
Old 09-02-2013 | 03:39 PM
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I can only think it's the gauge. Is there another way to install a sub-par boost gauge and see?

The gauge reads good vac, 19-20in/hg but when it goes into boost, I can spike to 5 then it drops down to 2-4 psi. I can't hold boost at 5psi unless I'm near like 5k rpm in 2nd-3rd gear.



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