picking up a 2.4 auto, need some opinions
#1
picking up a 2.4 auto, need some opinions
So i finally found a 2.4 automatic black cobalt ss exactly like i wanted for the right price, shes a little beat up cosmetically, and needs some TLC, nothing i can't handle though. Motor feels strong other then its sluggish to get up and go right from a dead standstill, i dont know if this is the drivebywire or it just needs a tune up. My biggest concern is the trans is shifting hard though, much like it has a shift kit or something in it. I know there was a TSB for the fluid drain and an extra magnet on the pan however I dont know if this is a potential problem that needs to be fixed or not. Need some opinions on this.
#3
127k, chick owned it prior, it has seen its share of neglect, so i can assume that the fluid has not been changed. The paint on the hood and roof is losing the clear. First thing im going to do is do a full flush and filter change.
#7
Yeh sorry i worded that wrong lol just a fluid and filter, i never flush these cars with anything. Ill have to double check for codes next time im over there. Im paying very very little for this car, id rather not post the number until its in my hands. lol
#8
What year? Motors for 2005/2006 are marginally stronger stronger. The throttle should be electric, not drive by wire.
with any used car, I would change all fluids, including brake. Filters, including fuel filter. Battery/starter/alternator at your discretion
Inspect alternator belt for weathering/cracks
Watch coolant temps, thermostat seizing is a common LE5 issue
Replace everything that's cheap/easy, hopefully we can get the ****** to 200k
with any used car, I would change all fluids, including brake. Filters, including fuel filter. Battery/starter/alternator at your discretion
Inspect alternator belt for weathering/cracks
Watch coolant temps, thermostat seizing is a common LE5 issue
Replace everything that's cheap/easy, hopefully we can get the ****** to 200k
#10
What year? Motors for 2005/2006 are marginally stronger stronger. The throttle should be electric, not drive by wire.
with any used car, I would change all fluids, including brake. Filters, including fuel filter. Battery/starter/alternator at your discretion
Inspect alternator belt for weathering/cracks
Watch coolant temps, thermostat seizing is a common LE5 issue
Replace everything that's cheap/easy, hopefully we can get the ****** to 200k
with any used car, I would change all fluids, including brake. Filters, including fuel filter. Battery/starter/alternator at your discretion
Inspect alternator belt for weathering/cracks
Watch coolant temps, thermostat seizing is a common LE5 issue
Replace everything that's cheap/easy, hopefully we can get the ****** to 200k
Didnt see any CEL's when i test drove it but ill have to double check it again, i would be happy if its just the cam solenoids lol gotta double check the vin against the recall issues as well.
#12
yeh thats what im referring to, from a dead standstill i can literally count 2 seconds before it starts to accelerate.
another issue it has is with the gauges, they seem to be starting out below the 0 on both speedo and tach, and move up very slowly. They do move, but they arent calibrated correctly as far as i can tell.
another issue it has is with the gauges, they seem to be starting out below the 0 on both speedo and tach, and move up very slowly. They do move, but they arent calibrated correctly as far as i can tell.
#15
2006 LE5, all my gauge are below zero when the car is off. They were below zero when i had the stock cluster, and still calibrated the same when i swapped it for a pontiac g5 red one.
I dont think any of the ecotecs have drive by wire throttle, my 2006 one doesnt.
good call to do all the maintenace items, $500 of fluids and filters and w/e will go a long way for the motors long term health.
Also, its pretty easy to take off the stock airbox, intake plenum and throttle body; basically the whole air intake/cold side of the engine. Taking it all off and cleaning it all will definitly help long term health. If your handy, probably would only take you maybe an hour tops.
make sure you check the front and rear discs for deep grooves etc. I had a friend that bought a 'lady driven' car, and the disc brakes were grooved/scratch to ****, because she wore the pads down to nothing. metal on metal and the like.
sadly, i cant offer much advice on the automatic/hard shifting front.
i can however, say i as well had the cam solenoid issue, i did mine @ 115k km, /62k miles
they are another common issue with LE5, cheap fix. you can do it yourself.
Maybe that will also fix your issue?
I dont think any of the ecotecs have drive by wire throttle, my 2006 one doesnt.
good call to do all the maintenace items, $500 of fluids and filters and w/e will go a long way for the motors long term health.
Also, its pretty easy to take off the stock airbox, intake plenum and throttle body; basically the whole air intake/cold side of the engine. Taking it all off and cleaning it all will definitly help long term health. If your handy, probably would only take you maybe an hour tops.
make sure you check the front and rear discs for deep grooves etc. I had a friend that bought a 'lady driven' car, and the disc brakes were grooved/scratch to ****, because she wore the pads down to nothing. metal on metal and the like.
sadly, i cant offer much advice on the automatic/hard shifting front.
i can however, say i as well had the cam solenoid issue, i did mine @ 115k km, /62k miles
they are another common issue with LE5, cheap fix. you can do it yourself.
Maybe that will also fix your issue?
#16
lol handy would be an understatement, the maintenance stuff shouldn't take me more than 2 hours, it needs the usuals, window motor on the passenger side, its got an issue with the drivers side door not opening correctly, gotta replace all the switches and lock actuator. Ill get the cam solenoids and replace those as well just since its a known issue.
#17
Check to see it the Traction Control light is working. Sometimes mine will come on then the trans shifts really rough. It will not go off til you shut the car off (stupid system). If it's all good-great! Now get ready for the infamous, endless Check Engine Light problems with these 2.4's. lol
#18
lol anyone wanna give me a quick run down of common problems i should be expecting or what its probably experiencing.
The drivers side door wont open unless you unlock the passenger side first (as far as we can tell), same goes for when you try to lock it, passenger side first.
The passenger side window goes up and snails pace. (moms 08 2LT does this too)
Trans shifts like its got some sort of shift kit or is set to beast mode for shifting lol
Dull throttle response and roll out from WOT dead standstill
Gauges start (with the car running) lower then the 0 on both the speedo and tach, and when they climb they are lower then where they should be because of this.
Drivers side mirror wont go left, goes up down and right but no left (assuming mirror switch?)
The drivers side door wont open unless you unlock the passenger side first (as far as we can tell), same goes for when you try to lock it, passenger side first.
The passenger side window goes up and snails pace. (moms 08 2LT does this too)
Trans shifts like its got some sort of shift kit or is set to beast mode for shifting lol
Dull throttle response and roll out from WOT dead standstill
Gauges start (with the car running) lower then the 0 on both the speedo and tach, and when they climb they are lower then where they should be because of this.
Drivers side mirror wont go left, goes up down and right but no left (assuming mirror switch?)
#19
So far the only problems I have had with my 2.4 were power steering went out and fuel pump went out. Both of those were recalls and then my blower motor went out. Replaced that. And now the only problem is my driver window doesn't work. The only CEL I have gotten was a misfire. Changed the spark plugs and it went away and then it came on when I put my zzp downpipe on. Got that tuned out. So I haven't had any issues that haven't been easily fixed. Right now my throttle body might be bad. It's causing some weird idles and rpm issues. But my car is close to 100k miles. So those few issues aren't that bad. Overall it's a good strong car.
#20
as long as they dont have common electric gremlins i couldnt care about all the parts that need to be replaced, this car is even cheaper to work on then my integra was lol some chicks apparently dont value their cars as much as you do though this car looks like hell and needs alot of TLC.
#21
my car gets cleaned before my room.Ill just say that lol. Theres usually not a piece of dirt in my car. But i have had only one electrical problem. The headlight harness that is connected to the car got corosion and it got wet and i had to cut it off and put in a new one. thats it besides the driver window not working now.
#22
Only issue I have had with the motor, are the cam solenoids, and thermostat. Both are common problems with LE5 that are up there in mileage. Both are easy cheap fixes. My motor has been abused with a turbo, and still runs great.
I have zero clue as to your door issues. There could be a setting on your driver console that may behave it. my windows do also go up slowish, especially if I do both at the same time.
One thing to look out for with the coupe windows, is that it's pretty easy for rocks/debris/tree biddies to get between the weather stripping of the windows and the door. Consequently, when you move the windows up and down, you will get long vertical scratches. No real permanent fix to this, except blow air to remove the particles/get firmer/tighter weather stripping.
Your mirror switch could be corrosion, it's real easy to take the doors apart. Screw under the switch bezel, screw under the handle. Use plastic pry bars around the edges to pop the clips. Doesn't need much force. You can check the mirror switch for conductivity, it's one motor for vertical and horizontal movement. So I'm guessing it could just be jiggly/loose etc
I have zero clue as to your door issues. There could be a setting on your driver console that may behave it. my windows do also go up slowish, especially if I do both at the same time.
One thing to look out for with the coupe windows, is that it's pretty easy for rocks/debris/tree biddies to get between the weather stripping of the windows and the door. Consequently, when you move the windows up and down, you will get long vertical scratches. No real permanent fix to this, except blow air to remove the particles/get firmer/tighter weather stripping.
Your mirror switch could be corrosion, it's real easy to take the doors apart. Screw under the switch bezel, screw under the handle. Use plastic pry bars around the edges to pop the clips. Doesn't need much force. You can check the mirror switch for conductivity, it's one motor for vertical and horizontal movement. So I'm guessing it could just be jiggly/loose etc
#23
Tally of non regular maintenance failures in my 143,000 miles....
45k: sway bar end link replaced, Driver side
80k: sway bar endlink replaced, passenger side
80k: EVAP purge valve replaced
81k: Power steering motor recall performed
82k: Driver side front wheel bearing replaced
99k: secondary 02 sensor replaced
45k: sway bar end link replaced, Driver side
80k: sway bar endlink replaced, passenger side
80k: EVAP purge valve replaced
81k: Power steering motor recall performed
82k: Driver side front wheel bearing replaced
99k: secondary 02 sensor replaced