What did you guys do about the DP? Obviously the downpipe is setup for a nut and bolt setup, but the stock catback has studs on that flange, gonna have to grind those off to use the nut and bolt since the nuts are rusted beyond repair lol

 

Well we had switched my gmpp exhaust onto his car not too long before that so we didn't use stock exhaust

 

ah ok, saved yourself a world of trouble right there lol

 

hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
thought all ecotec exhaust manifold flange to head were the same !

or am I missing something here ?

 

they are, but when the bolt holes are drilled like ****, they dont go on very easy lol managed to get it on finally tonight with the help of my neighbor, had to clean up the bolt holes a little better and tap it on with a hammer finally gave it the room i needed to get the bolts threaded on. Had to repeat the torque process 3 times because the flange on the header was not straight apparently, probably warped from the welding because of how cheaply made the flange is.

 

Well here it is in all its poorly painted glory lol fortunately i think the stock heatshield will bolt on above it. It's leaking from the catback to downpipe connection, the gasket they gave me is the wrong size, and i couldnt remove the studs from the catback flange, its impossible, so i have on order new nuts for that, since the zzp ones dont work for whatever reason, and a new gasket for that side. Had to hammer out the heat shield for the cat section because the o2 sensor end rubs, and the o2 sensor was rubbing against the subframe on the header, for the upstream with the angle it sits on.

Threw a catalystic efficiency low code after a couple miles of driving, either related to the leak at the catback section or the catco single substrate cat isnt efficient enough to replace the 3 way high efficiency stocker. Or its on backwards, but it has no flow direction indicated on it, probably because its a 2 way single substrate design as far as i can tell given its size..

IMO, id never recommend this header to anyone. Either go with a OTTP long tube for like 100 more and get REAL quality parts, or go for the cheaper mid length OBX kit and just deal with the fitment issues of the downpipe during install.

My singular purpose behind spending the 395 bucks on this header kit was to avoid every fitment related problem I read about, and this thing has been nothing but aggravation from day one. This will be probably the first and last zzp product i will ever purchase.

 

I just went with badmab and zzp dp...

 

the zzp downpipes arent terrible, the vband in my opinion is just a terrible idea with where it is placed but thats just me. Im sure once i leak test it im gonna find that the vband section is leaking because of how it fits together, it appears that the vband flange on the downpipe side is slightly smaller then the header side because this is a 2.5" downpipe and the header is 3". Wont know till i have the downpipe off again to measure what size the flange is on the DP side.

Gonna retorque the header flange again this weekend and hopefully gmpartseast gets those parts i need here with the quickness because im worried about those damaged bolts holding the downpipe to the catback.

All in all though, a tad bit louder then stock, but whisper quiet and unnoticeable at part throttle. Exactly how i wanted it. I did feel a pretty significant improvement in throttle response and top end power at WOT, i havent datalogged yet but i put the ignition tables back to stock timing so im hoping with the improved exhaust flow its able to take the 23* of timing that the stock high octane map was demanding, i was retarded at least 2-3* in the top end and 2* in the mid range from what i believed was a exhaust restriction, either clogged cat, or just too much timing for our altitude density here.

Looking forward to seeing the results though. Pulled from 60-80 on the highway very quick compared to what it was doing before.

 

finished fabbing up the intake with the TIG today, big thanks to my buddy vince @ VP Design & Fabrication LLC: Engineered for Success. Manufactured to Perfection. for helping me out with this. Still gotta order the heat shield material from mcmaster and some insulation wrap for the radiator hose right below it.

 

2.5?

 

full 3" pipe, 6" velocity stack, ill have to swap the coupler out when i upgrade to the LSJ throttle body.

 

No you don't. It will fit. You just gota force it on there.lol

 

lol these silicone couplers dont really give much play, they are designed for like 60psi of boost

 

Mine fit over the Lsj throttle body.

 

that would be fantastic if thats the case, these couplers are like 16.99 a piece lol

 

It probably would have been easier for me to buy a bigger one, but I made it fit.

 

I wish I could've stopped you from buying that shitty car. Just had mine disable it's own engine for no reason, took an hour and a half... I pulled off my intake and throttle body and wiped down with a microfiber towel, and magically it works perfectly......? Trust me I've blown way too much money trying to fix my shitbox. Next car's going to be a Honda. end of story.

 

probably related to the throttle body, if it detects a problem with the drive by wire or throttle motor, you go into engine power reduced to avoid pulling a toyota. lol

 

Perfect! Honda fits your personality!

 

Lmao. This made me smile.

 

 

heat shield mocked up today, standard issue tool grade black ABS plastic, i have EDPM rubber seals coming like what you see on the GMPP and K&N heat shields which will surround the top and bottom and give a more complete seal.

 

anddddd complete, does a good job if isolating the intake from radiator heat when its on, almost completely sealed across the bottom all the way to the firewall.