Hey guys,

So, I started piecing together my s/c kit last weekend.. Well, I just bought a package deal, but I will be from here on out.. lol.. Here's what I have so far:

- M62 blower, ported and silencer blocked off
- stock pulley
- stock injectors, with harness
- stock heat exchanger
- stock overflow
- no-name aftermarket intake
- intercooler pump bracket

The car is an '06 SS 2.4 auto. The performance mods thus far consist of an Ark N2 catback and an Injen CAI that I can't use on the s/c build. lol I plan on also buying another header/dp combo when it comes time to install..

So, I've got a few questions thus far:

- What is the stock pulley size, and what is a better one to go with?
- What is the stock injector poundage, and what is a better set to go with?
- Am I good with the stock h/e or should I look into a bigger intercooler?
- Will I be ok with the generic intake with a good cone filter or should I get an Injen or such?
- What basic mods (in addition to the smaller pulley and higher flow injectors) should I get? Once the build is complete and drivable, I'm likely done with it. So I want to make sure it's as good as I can get it. No internals. Just bolt ons like t/b spacers and such.. Just suggest some good, solid mods to look into..

Sorry, I'm totally new to boost, and I don't want to mess anything up. Luckily I have the Olds in the event of a problem or extended downtime, however I want to have everything ready to go for the build day. I don't have a day in mind, but definitely early summer.. Luckily the kid i'm doing the install with is good with boost.. He has a turbo CRX.. I heard that with a pulley and injectors, you're basically stage two.. But I'm looking into all options.. not looking to build some 500hp monster, but just a very usable street car with lots of power when you punch it (that still gets reasonable mpg).. lol.. It's still my daily, so don't suggest anything too insane.. lol

Thanks for any help!!

 

I was planning on running a smaller pulley anyway.. What is a good one to look into? What is the stock size?

 

stock is 3.35

 

Would a ZZP pulley be a good choice? A smaller pulley with yield more power too, correct?

Will a smaller pulley dramatically reduce MPG as power goes up or will it not change too much unless you have lots of mods and you're always on it?

Any other suggestions?

 

Yes smaller pulley = more boost.. ZZp makes good pullies from what i hear. if u go anything smaller than stock u will need a better heat exchanger and injectors. i have a 2.2 so i am not sure what ur engine is rated at but after 250 our rods give out.
and i am bout to do my build this week. just need a radiator hose and waiting for my tune to come in!

 

i have lsj alt bolts and the pulley iddler if u need that

 

run 60lb injectors...easiest to install and biggest safety margin. stock intake is fine, but if you want all you can get out of it, get a 2.8" or 2.7" pulley, intake, exhaust, dual pass, full exhuast, etc. (all the stuff the ss/sc guys get)

 

So can I safely run this s/c kit with basic mods without replacing any internals? The 2.4 is supposed to be built pretty beefy..

 

Hunter Knows his stuff. Listen to him

 

I'm just asking if it's safe to run the s/c with basic mods with stock internals.. lol I'm not ripping the engine apart more so than the manifold and header.. This is my daily, so I'm not going to jeopardize that.. If I can safely run this stuff with stock 2.4 internals and tranny, we're good to go..

 

Yeah u can.. Look at the SCed 2.2 guys.. hunter and jn2 for instance. hunter has a 2.2 and i think he ran a 2.8, 60s,heade and dp combo, to exhaust and our lil 2.2s handeled it nice.. but he had other supporting mods such as the option b and bigger heat exchanger to keep it cool and functioning properly. Jn2 did all this unintercooled for a while. It all depoends on how u treat ur car.
R u auto or manual?

 

I'm auto. I don't beat on my car at all compared to most people. I rarely even speed. lol. And I never flog it until it's at running temperature..

 

good good.. well when u get ur header and dp make sure it is for the auto as both enginge are slightly turned diff directions beasue of the placement of the transmissions.

Any other questions?

 

I actually had a ZZP header/dp on my car over the summer but took it off because it was insanely loud.. It was a cat-less system in which I ended up adding a cat and it was still bad.. But I think it was just because my GMPP at the time was starting to go, so the resonator was very droney.. But yes, mine was for a manual too, and I had no overall fitment issues.. Just sound.. lol

My only issue right now is with the Ark exhaust. I love the look and sound, but it was on a manual car, and the auto engine is set back a tad or something isn't it? It seems like it because the exhaust is sticking out a TAD more than I'd like it to.. But it's not bad..

 

Well i meant without modification lol

 

Ditch the stock injectors and h/e, get a good front mount

 

^ 2.4 used to be SCed.. ask him

 

Stock pulley size is 3.35. But you can't run that cause your auto and it'll rub. You can notch the core support but it's just better to run smaller pulley. 3.0, 2.9., or 2.8 is good. Heck there are even 1/2 sizes in between those.

Stock injectors are 34lb's. They are almost maxxed out on this swap. Go 42's for down to a 2.9. 60's for 2.8 and below. 60's will cover all and can run with any pulley and are a wiser choice just in case you get that bug and wanna upgrade later. Not that more expensive either so why not.

Your ok with just the stock h/e. You will heat soak faster though. Your car won't blow up from just running the stock h/e LOL!! For more consitant runs and cooler iats use and extra one as well. It can be added later if you need to source other parts 1st and get the car running. Remember it's all about cooilng on the s/c setup. The more the better.

I've heard of tuning issues with the cheapy intakes. Stock LSJ is stil good. It was tha last mod I did after pulley, exhaust, etc. You get more out of the car if you get name brand and less tuning probs. Lately alot of Injen's and K&N's have been for sale for cheap. 3in will net you more power.

Any Header and DP is good. If you want quite stay with catted and a resonator. 2.5 is good for power. 3in will net you more. I have a auto 2.4 and no problems with fitment using manuel ones.

Tune trans as well. Stock shift from the factory the comp will slip the clucthes and reduces power to give that nice smooth shift. A nice firm shift is better for the trans in the long run. Add a trans cooler for more reliability. I am running 65% firmness and like it alot.

All in all it seems you want reliabilty instead of max power. Which there is nothing wrong with that. If so I suggest for mods 2.9, 60's, 2.5 full exhaust, K&N intake, LSJ TB, dual pass, obt b, both H/E, mounts and a trans cooler with the trans shift % around 60%. Vince will tune you very nice and won't stop till your all good. Also don't forget to get all the right gauges to help whoever you choose to tune you. Thats how you know you'll be safe in the end.

If the power bug bites you add LS4 TB, 3in intake and exhaust, 2.8 or 2.7 and meth.

I will be doing this swap to my fiance's LE5 auto as well and plan on pushing it a lil hareder then the normal here.

 

i'm not doing meth and im going with the TVS instead of the m62 also a 3.1 pullley with headers. i also have my full exhaust catted and a 3" tip **** sounds mean!

 

Thanks for the great info familywagon!!

 

KABOOM!

I don't think there are LSJ's that do 3.1" TVS's without Meth and you're wanting to do that with the LE5's 10.5:1 CR?

 

course there are. he can run it without meth..but he'll have like 5° spark advance

 

Your welcome. Thats what we're here for.