possible ram air idea
#3
do this, if you dont use your fogs diconnecti them.... make your fog light infront of your intake to you can snap it in and out,... when you drive around town theyll be dummy lights, at the strip, pop the one out
#4
I wouldnt waste your money. The benefits become greater at higher speeds the faster you go the better. from idle to 60 mph or so you wont see a benefit. on highway you might. I messed with ram air systems on other cars with it just ending up me wasting money. The only real benefit is your pulling cold air and if you have a CAI thats your best bet. You cant have any restrictions in the ram air. like removing a fog light and putting the filter behind it. if you created dual ducts into a box that air could compress slightly and force itself into the intake you might benefit this is the setup i had. And it helped way up top, where benefits can only be seen at the track.
#5
i was looking in my race car book and saw that the brits use this type of front spoiler (on saloon cars) to force more air to cool the brakes. its positioned right under the front bumper and radiator. perhaps you could try that, just like a sheet of thin metal angled into the wind and directed to the air filter...
#8
I did a home-made short ram. Made a big difference in all areas, especially toward top end when you hit 5500+ and it roars. The only issue was fabricating part of the intake to accept the MAF sensor. I've noticed that every couple of days the check engine light comes on and I lose a little power, like the ECU noticed the change in airflow and said f$*k you . Then again, the car is OBD II... The only way to get it back to normal is to switch to the stock intake, which I hate, and keep resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery if i keep the new intake.
#9
Originally Posted by panblackrose
I did a home-made short ram. Made a big difference in all areas, especially toward top end when you hit 5500+ and it roars. The only issue was fabricating part of the intake to accept the MAF sensor. I've noticed that every couple of days the check engine light comes on and I lose a little power, like the ECU noticed the change in airflow and said f$*k you . Then again, the car is OBD II... The only way to get it back to normal is to switch to the stock intake, which I hate, and keep resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery if i keep the new intake.
1) Short Ram Intake and Ram Air are two totally different concepts.
2) Many 2.4L Cobalts are running aftermarket intakes with no CELs. That is not the only way to clear a CEL either. You can clear the CEL with any OBDII scan tool. You can also clear it with HPTuners.
The reason you're probably getting a CEL is not because of the airflow. I've only had one code thrown due to my intake (lean code). You're probably getting the CEL because of the custom mount for the MAF sensor. The sensor might not be sitting snug and therefore causing the ECU to throw the code due to poor readings. Do you know what codes you're getting?
#11
Some retard on here took a velocity stack and mounted it to his front bumper and took flex piping from pep boys and ran it to his CAI. It looked really funny, there should be some pics of it on here somewhere.
#12
you mean that wasn't you?
actually, if something like that above was used only at the track with a straight path to the throttle body and a maf provision, it would work alright, but if it's just putting air at the filter it's not going to net as large a gain as the person was anticipating
actually, if something like that above was used only at the track with a straight path to the throttle body and a maf provision, it would work alright, but if it's just putting air at the filter it's not going to net as large a gain as the person was anticipating
#13
Originally Posted by celicacobalt
look under the hood of the RK sport ram air hood, it uses the scoop to direct airflow into the air filter on the 2.2 and 2.4
As for ram air, most scoops that close to the hood are in the boundry layer and not up in uninterrupted air flow. You have to use a scoop like those on a pro stock car to get the inlet high enough. However, even without ram effect, breathing air from above the hood is preferable to air from below the car for two reasons: it's hard to hydraulic lock the engine with a scoop (if you get that much water in the scoop you probably just went nose-first into a lake) and the air is cleaner (it doesn't pick up the grit from the road as bad).
Just my 2 pennies worth, for what that's worth...
-J-
#14
Originally Posted by 8cd03gro
it wouldn't do alot and it would just make your car looked fucked up.
Another post mentions saloon cars using under-the-air-dam brake ducting. This has been quite popular for over 30 years in racing. As recent as the Gen I Neon ACR (I have a '96 with a PT Cruiser engine), Chrysler left out the fog lights and said it was for brake cooling. Trouble was, there is a big wall just behind the air dam opening that stops the air from reaching the brakes. So much for function. It was probably just for looks so you can tell an ACR from a cheapo.
-J-
#15
I'd be careful putting the Intake closer to the road. A friend of mine drove through a deep puddle, and Hydraulic Locked his motor, buy drawing water into the carb intake on Pontiac sunbird.
Last edited by Gazoo0; 09-20-2006 at 08:12 PM. Reason: Correction ---Water notAIR
#16
Originally Posted by Gazoo0
I'd be careful putting the Intake closer to the road. A friend of mine drove through a deep puddle, and Hydraulic Locked his motor, buy drawing air into the carb intake on Pontiac sunbird.
#17
Originally Posted by biohazard
do this, if you dont use your fogs diconnecti them.... make your fog light infront of your intake to you can snap it in and out,... when you drive around town theyll be dummy lights, at the strip, pop the one out
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