radiator replacement
#1
radiator replacement
[IMAGE]http://i693.photobucket.com/albums/vv291/ChevyBoi89/Screenshot_2013-07-03-23-49-46.png[/IMAGE]
Will this work as a stock replacement? Dont really know the stock specs.
But quick goodle search I got was 22x14.75 this is close. But I belive this is
more than twice as thick. And the hose location isnt in the middle on this one.
It's located all the way at the bottom. Ideas? Need one with a built in trans cooler.
And want an upgrade (don't really want the Spectra one summit has) and heard
Griffin is top notch.
Will this work as a stock replacement? Dont really know the stock specs.
But quick goodle search I got was 22x14.75 this is close. But I belive this is
more than twice as thick. And the hose location isnt in the middle on this one.
It's located all the way at the bottom. Ideas? Need one with a built in trans cooler.
And want an upgrade (don't really want the Spectra one summit has) and heard
Griffin is top notch.
#2
#4
honestly, id just run a factory replacement koyo rad, part# A13042, after running them on several of my other cars i wouldnt even bother trying to run a bigger radiator. If they are built correctly and well designed, the standard cores work just as wel as the 4 row cheap ass ebay brands. A good quality radiator will be dual pass on the inside for maximum cooling effect in its given size, where as a cheap radiator might be larger, but only single pass, and not perform as well.
#5
Spawn, Griffin is not a cheap eBay brand. I will look into tbe Koyo tho!
Shadow, I need a new one. And nothing is wrong with OEM spec.
Just looking for an upgrade. I am in the process of saving up for
my TVS build. And figured, why buy stock replacement and then go
bigger later on. Why buy twice? Plus im auto, I have the B&M trans cooler
mounted to the front of the rad...and man that thing gets hot...honestly makes
my car run hotter than normal...or at least I think its running hot...almost 215-220 F
Figured the big boy rad will help with cooling
Shadow, I need a new one. And nothing is wrong with OEM spec.
Just looking for an upgrade. I am in the process of saving up for
my TVS build. And figured, why buy stock replacement and then go
bigger later on. Why buy twice? Plus im auto, I have the B&M trans cooler
mounted to the front of the rad...and man that thing gets hot...honestly makes
my car run hotter than normal...or at least I think its running hot...almost 215-220 F
Figured the big boy rad will help with cooling
Last edited by ChevyBoi89; 07-04-2013 at 12:48 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#6
If your running 215-220 degrees something is WRONG, have you check your thermostat to see if its bad? I see about 205-210 in 90+ weather on a bone stock 127k radiator. How big is your B&M trans cooler? Is it actively cooled or passive? Are you cycling it through the radiator as well? You should have it going into the radiator first and then passing through the B&M for extra cooling but the radiator should be doing the bulk of the work. If you went directly to the B&M and bypassed the radiator thats BAD, those small trans coolers dont have enough heat dissipation capacity to support a trans this size.
Honestly, a stock radiator, 70/30 coolant (water/antifreeze) and water wetter on a good system you should be flawless even with the supercharger (which wont really add that much heat anyway).
Honestly, a stock radiator, 70/30 coolant (water/antifreeze) and water wetter on a good system you should be flawless even with the supercharger (which wont really add that much heat anyway).
#7
Wow thats is hot! At 223 these engines are around the over heat temp. These engine normally operate at 199F to 210F. Low fans turn on at 223 and high fans are at 230 as per GM document. Still not comfortable with temps that high on these engines. The radiator looks ok but have to make sure it has a way to mount it in properly. The factory one has 2 nipples and the bottom that seat in the frame on the bottom and if I remember tight a bracket that bolts it in on the top.
#8
Hot weather im around 212-217. I believe its passive, I honestly do not know the difference. It is run from the rad as a secondary, but it still gets pretty hot. I think ots the middle sized one cannot remember the specs...actually its their 13000btu 11x7 one from what I remember. Car has 114k as of now. And is 70/30 the better way to do it? I normally run just 50/50. And is Koyo or Spectra a better option if I decide to stock replacement? Im replacing everything, rad, hoses, coolant, thermostat...all new. I do know stock is a 180 degree t-stat...but know nothing really about cooling...doesnt that mean we shouldnt get huch hotter than 180???
#9
Honestly the tstat depends on the brand, go with an OEM tstat from gmpartsdirect or parts.com, common issue we had on honda's was that the aftermarket tstats might be stamped for 180, but they would either start gradually opening at 180 and not be fully open until 195, or they would only open 4mm instead of the full 8mm like the OEM tstats would, thus restricting flow.
If you are in an area where you rarely see sub zero temps then 70/30 (water/antifreeze) is fine, and water wetter or purple ice will enhance your freeze protection as well. Water is what actually dissipates the heat, the antifreeze is a stabilizing agent, it increases boil over protection and increases freeze protection, but it still doesnt remove heat as fast as water does.
Spectra is a cheap aftermarket store brand replacement, Koyo is a performance radiator manufacturer, and a much higher quality product IMO.
When i say active or passive cooling on your trans cooler, a actively cooled trans cooler will come equipped with a small fan. As long as you are running it properly from the radiator to the trans cooler and back into the trans you are fine. If you have an IR thermometer you can get a good idea of what you are averaging, the trans cooler should never exceed 200 degrees, you want your tranny fluid temp to be ideally around 170* all the time.
If you are in an area where you rarely see sub zero temps then 70/30 (water/antifreeze) is fine, and water wetter or purple ice will enhance your freeze protection as well. Water is what actually dissipates the heat, the antifreeze is a stabilizing agent, it increases boil over protection and increases freeze protection, but it still doesnt remove heat as fast as water does.
Spectra is a cheap aftermarket store brand replacement, Koyo is a performance radiator manufacturer, and a much higher quality product IMO.
When i say active or passive cooling on your trans cooler, a actively cooled trans cooler will come equipped with a small fan. As long as you are running it properly from the radiator to the trans cooler and back into the trans you are fine. If you have an IR thermometer you can get a good idea of what you are averaging, the trans cooler should never exceed 200 degrees, you want your tranny fluid temp to be ideally around 170* all the time.
#10
I'm in Cleveland Ohio winters are pretty bad IMO lol. I will check out the Koyo. It IS a direct no mod replacement? And yeah its passive then. No fan. Bit it does bypass itself when it's cold which is nice. Only when it's getting hot it opens up. At least that's what they say...
#11
Yeh thats a direct replacement for our cars, there is a tool you can buy at walmart or the parts store or what have you that will measure the coolants ability to protect you. I mean worst case scenario 50/50 works fine too, water wetter enhances the cooling ability, great stuff IMO, i saw a 10 degree drop in coolant temps on my old car using it. Honestly though your high temps sounds like your thermostat is being bypassed via a blown thermostat seal (dumb design imo). My moms 2.2 cobalt did exactly the same thing and I always wondered why that car would run upwards of 217-220 degrees.
#14
Sad, Koyo doesnt make a performance one for us, just an OEM style. Looks like their racing ones are oriented towards JDM cars! But if their OE one is better than the GM one I'd be all in...my only other option Moshimoto or however its spelled...but they are for manual cars only... (no trans cooler built in)
Last edited by ChevyBoi89; 07-04-2013 at 02:02 AM. Reason: Spelling
#15
problem is, typically performance radiators usually dont ever come in automatic trans options, radiatorbarn might have something, but ive gone through 3 of radiator barns "heavy duty all brass/copper" radiators in 6 months before they finally refunded all my money and i went with something else entirely. Those were the only people I could find that had a heavy duty (oversized) radiator with an auto trans cooler that fit the oem fitment.
#17
Also, will this:
CFA-CVCO052L-DU-A TYC AC Condenser + Radiator Cooling Fan (W/ Shroud, W/ Motor) - Assembly (Dual Function) for 05-up Chevrolet Cobalt at Andy's Auto Sport
Meant as a stock replacement to the 2.0 LSJ drop right into my 2.4 auto?
CFA-CVCO052L-DU-A TYC AC Condenser + Radiator Cooling Fan (W/ Shroud, W/ Motor) - Assembly (Dual Function) for 05-up Chevrolet Cobalt at Andy's Auto Sport
Meant as a stock replacement to the 2.0 LSJ drop right into my 2.4 auto?
#19
How is it not different? ....my 2.4 only has a single fan. This is the dual fan setup the S/C balts have.
Im just asking if it will mount up the same, plug right in amd no issues. Or it would need custom fab on anything.
Im just asking if it will mount up the same, plug right in amd no issues. Or it would need custom fab on anything.
#22
#25
Hopefully I can do the swap...the one fan looks like it only cools about 50% of the radiator...and the other half is blocked off by the shroud...the dual fan setup looks like it will cool the whole radiator...should help me out a decent amount...I hope it botls and wires right up no mods! Your profile says you have a 2006, what kind do you have and what kind of fan?