To turbo or not to turbo...
#28
Found this with a quick search, LNF seems to have a rod limit of about 400.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/5328471-post22.html
Link?
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/5328471-post22.html
Link?
Last edited by Spawne32; 08-03-2013 at 10:59 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#30
found this in another forum post
2006-2007: 12596088 A 2.4-B/P (LE5), (1ST DES) ROD, CONN (FORGED STEEL W/ROUNDED EDGES ON CAP AND MFG TRIM MARK AROUND OUTER PERIMETER) (FOR 2ND DES SEE 12611360)
2008+ 12598216 A 2.4-B/P (LE5), (2ND DES) ROD, CONN (POWDER METAL W/SMOOTH SURFACE CAP AND SINGLE RIDGE ACROSS CAP, W/O MFG TRIM MARK AROUND OUTER PERIMETER) (FOR 1ST DES SEE 12596088)
dunno where he got the description from, dont have a GM parts catalog in front of me
2006-2007: 12596088 A 2.4-B/P (LE5), (1ST DES) ROD, CONN (FORGED STEEL W/ROUNDED EDGES ON CAP AND MFG TRIM MARK AROUND OUTER PERIMETER) (FOR 2ND DES SEE 12611360)
2008+ 12598216 A 2.4-B/P (LE5), (2ND DES) ROD, CONN (POWDER METAL W/SMOOTH SURFACE CAP AND SINGLE RIDGE ACROSS CAP, W/O MFG TRIM MARK AROUND OUTER PERIMETER) (FOR 1ST DES SEE 12596088)
dunno where he got the description from, dont have a GM parts catalog in front of me
#32
Well there your answer. They are forged so that means they are stronger than the newer model 2.4. Zzp says that...08+ 2.2 and 2.4 have weaker rods and we do not recommend going passed 260whp with stock internals.
#33
#34
The 2.4L (2008) VVT uses forged C70 steel connecting rods that are shorter than those in the 2.2L with a stroked cast nodular iron crankshaft.
So apparently both use forged rods, perhaps the rods are just smaller then on the newer models since the 08+ were supposed to be lighter.
So apparently both use forged rods, perhaps the rods are just smaller then on the newer models since the 08+ were supposed to be lighter.
#37
The 2008 2.4 is weaker. That's all that needs to be known lol. It can't handle as much power as the earlier models.
True. You will have to if you want over 300whp.
True. You will have to if you want over 300whp.
Last edited by chevygirl2006; 08-03-2013 at 11:40 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#40
Shoot I'm going SC in a couple weeks for my LE5. I got everything lined up and I'm pumped to get it running.
I haven't even thought about internals, or clutch or any of that yet. Just excited to be able to make it up steep hills with cruise control on haha.
I haven't even thought about internals, or clutch or any of that yet. Just excited to be able to make it up steep hills with cruise control on haha.
#41
I love my KY stage 3 I have in now but the KY stage 1 I had before was also a really good clutch
#43
They're all different because it depends on how good/bad it has been treated. I beat the **** out of mine so it started slipping fully bolted+tuned after a few thousand miles. Some people have SC'ed and made low 200's whp on the stock clutch, after some time though it will slip
#44
They're all different because it depends on how good/bad it has been treated. I beat the **** out of mine so it started slipping fully bolted+tuned after a few thousand miles. Some people have SC'ed and made low 200's whp on the stock clutch, after some time though it will slip
ZZPerformance - South Bend Stage Clutches #SB-STGCL
Any recommendations?
#45
I really like KY, there customer service is great and their clutches are quality. I know a guy that had the ZZP/southbend stage 3 on his SC'd HHR, he liked it a lot more than his exedy setup.
#47
you mean how does the zzp turbo compare to the zzp sc kit?
turbo will get you more power, way easier. it does cost more money though, but ZZP's sc kit is way overpriced. you can piece together an sc kit for $1500 easily and there are plenty of write-ups/instructions on how to do it. getting a lot of power with the SC would cost a lot more, where with the turbo you turn up the boost (assuming tune+injectors are good for it) and make more power.
really depends on the kind of power you want to make, and what the car's used for. remember though with more power comes decreased reliability
turbo will get you more power, way easier. it does cost more money though, but ZZP's sc kit is way overpriced. you can piece together an sc kit for $1500 easily and there are plenty of write-ups/instructions on how to do it. getting a lot of power with the SC would cost a lot more, where with the turbo you turn up the boost (assuming tune+injectors are good for it) and make more power.
really depends on the kind of power you want to make, and what the car's used for. remember though with more power comes decreased reliability
#48
you mean how does the zzp turbo compare to the zzp sc kit?
turbo will get you more power, way easier. it does cost more money though, but ZZP's sc kit is way overpriced. you can piece together an sc kit for $1500 easily and there are plenty of write-ups/instructions on how to do it. getting a lot of power with the SC would cost a lot more, where with the turbo you turn up the boost (assuming tune+injectors are good for it) and make more power.
really depends on the kind of power you want to make, and what the car's used for. remember though with more power comes decreased reliability
turbo will get you more power, way easier. it does cost more money though, but ZZP's sc kit is way overpriced. you can piece together an sc kit for $1500 easily and there are plenty of write-ups/instructions on how to do it. getting a lot of power with the SC would cost a lot more, where with the turbo you turn up the boost (assuming tune+injectors are good for it) and make more power.
really depends on the kind of power you want to make, and what the car's used for. remember though with more power comes decreased reliability
#49
I was speaking solely in reference to our application. These motors can really only handle about 15psi max in stock form, and no turbo has a surge line that low. ZZP's kit starts at 7-8 psi and can easily be turned up from there.
And where these motors sit on any compressor map, boost=power
And where these motors sit on any compressor map, boost=power
#50
Well, it's my daily driver, about 40 miles to work and another 40 back (yeah I know...ugh) - so I want reliability, but I also don't wanna sink 6-7k into it, because with 6 or 7k I'd be making a down payment on an evo IIX. lol. But, I can see 3.5k or even 4k to get some boost behind the pedals, cuz as much as I love my car, we all know the na just isn't fast. lol.
I want reliable, relatively inexpensive, boosted fun for my daily driver.
I want reliable, relatively inexpensive, boosted fun for my daily driver.