You're not going to be able to use a regulator. You'll need larger injectors and you may want to use a 255 walbro for peace of mind.

 

4G63 turbos are nice, thats what i ran in my old sentra

 

The compressor maps are just for referance when selecting a turbo. You don't need it for tuning.

I HIGHLY recommend that you convert to a return fuel system, in which case you will need a 1:1 regulator. If you choose to keep the stock returnless system, you'll be limited to blowing up in the high 200hp range like everyone else which would totally defeat the purpose of turboing your car.

In the very likely event that these **** suckers ban me again, feel free to email (matta001@gmail.com) or IM me (il capo di mafia) if you need help/advice with anything turbo or tuning related. I'm always willing to help someone that's willing to learn.

 

It's not the fact necessarily that it's a returnless fuel system but it's the fact that people are oversizing fuel injectors and not having a fuel pump that is capable of keeping up with the demand of fuel for the larger injectors.

Why people are "blowing up" is not because of their fuel system, it's because of the inefficiency of their supercharger when trying to overspin it. Everyone is trying to counter act this occurance of increased IAT and combustion chamber temps by running richer fuel mixtures, which is why people are going to these massive injector sizes. If they had a more efficient compressor like a turbocharger, things would be much different.

Yes, going returnless would sound better to do but it's not necessarily needed if someone is doing a mild street project which has been seen over and over with other vehicles (example: SRT-4) while still being reliable.

 

350whp on a 2.4L that can't rev is hardly a "mild" street project. Any SRT trying to make that power has converted to a return system and good reason.

It's the difference between just getting by and doing it the right way.

For whatever reason I can't edit my post, DOH!

EDIT:

350whp on a 2.4L that can't rev is hardly a "mild" street project. Any SRT trying to make that power has converted to a return system and for good reason.

It's the difference between just getting by and doing it the right way. "Just getting by" isn't going to cut it at 350hp on 145+hp/liter on pump gas.

 

i did think of doing that myself upgrading my fuel pump. i didnt know for sure what the fuel pump was pushing out how much per hr. i didnt think the stock fuel pump would handle much more fuel than what its capable of something like 300whp is probly way to much for the stock fuel pump. i would say upgrade if you do anything over 265whp thats probly a good guess i dont know any schematics. but im sure njhk would.

ryan.

 

what does a return fuel system consist of?

 

It's simply a line off the end of the rail that lets fuel flow through the rail and back to the tank instead of meeting a dead end, which is terrible for distribution. It allows all injectors to get an ample amount of fuel regardless of their location on the rail.

You'll need a fitting for the rail, another fitting to put in the gas filler neck, a fuel line long enough to connect the two, and a 1:1 rising rate pressure regulator (I like Aeromotives).

 

He's not going to go straight from 140 BHP to 350 WHP over night, that's why I said it will be a mild street project.

http://www.ecotecforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2743

In my FAQ I explained that

http://www.ecotecforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2743

 

thanks again njhk for the help.....ok so what i learned is that i need to figure out what injectors to use..."Flow Rate = (Horsepower x BSFC) / (# of Injectors x Max Duty Cycle)

Ok, you’re probably thinking “what the hell is BSFC?”. BSFC stands for brake-specific fuel consumption which are rated in pounds per hour. The average for naturally aspirated engines is about 0.45 and for turbocharged engines about 0.55 at full throttle (It could normally be anywhere from 0.4 to 0.6). Like said, these are estimations but it will give you a good idea"

....this equation will help me figure that out...what im wondering is how od i figure out what the bsfc for my car is?.....i can fill in the rest....(350x____)/(4x.80)..... .80 just to be ont he safe side....also i want to play it safe with this turbo setup so i guess i will go with a return system...all i need is the pressure reg. and return lines and im good to go?....and also how does the vacuum hose tie into the manifold..especially a compostie one at that?

and lastly no one would happen to know what the lbs/hr on our fuel pump is would they?

does anybody know where i can find information on the t3/t4oe turbo from garrett?...i couldnt find it on their site...perhaps i missed it...a link would be appreciated....i want to look at the specs/dimensions to see if it owuld fit behind the engine or if it is too big

 

The BSFC is estimated to be at 0.55. These are mainly estimates with -/+ corrections but it's a very good way to get a close accuracy to the size injectors you would need.

You would need: Fuel Rail with provision for a FPR and Return fuel lines. The thing is that I'm not sure about the fuel pump because it will be running at a constant pressure but it has a valve that alters how much pressure is sent out to the rail from factory. With a return fuel system, it's reliant on your manifold pressure which is why you would need a vacuum line to hook up to your intake manifold. 1:1 means that it will raise the fuel pressure 1 PSI for ever PSI of air pressure increase over atmospheric.

 

i wonder if ppaz's turbo is running a returnfuel system...ill have to try and see what he used

 

have you considered the super 20g?thats what im going with.

 

how much does this turbo run?

 

It was.

 

damn....so id have to tap the fuel tank for a return line...add in a fuel pressure regulator...somehow plumb a lin to the intake mani....any ideas on the retun and plumbing the line to the intake mani.?

 

I paid like $850 for it from hahn.

 

seems like a nice turbo but i think ill just stay with the t3/to4e since its cheeper....whats the trim and everything on the 20g?

 

Gt-30

 

ive heavily considered them but they seem to be overpriced...why not just go with a turbo that will last almost as long as a ball bearing and can be rebuilt and is cheeper

 

There should be a nipple on the intake manifold that you can hook a line up to.

Honestly, you're worry about too much all at once. Do one thing at a time and go from there. Do the turbo setup first and get it up and running first.

Correction: They are only ball bearing. Look at the GT35s.

 

o lol thanks...well ppazz isnt running a return system so i doubt that it would be highly necessary....which im glad because that seems like it wouldve generated more headaches....

 

Exactly.

 

Sure what do I know...

 

lol my bad gtp i totally missed your post...my fault