zzp 2.5 downpipe
#28
believe me its worth the extra few bucks to get an extra bung. If your getting exhaust work done, like manifold/dp, you want to get a tune to maximize those gains, as stated before.
And once you are tuned, it is a good idea to get a wideband to keep track of ur afr
And once you are tuned, it is a good idea to get a wideband to keep track of ur afr
#29
and i just finished installing my bad mab header and zzp 2.5 inch dp with high flow cat and threw a code. some of zzps catted dps dont throw codes, some do. its hit and miss. The code wont hurt anything its just going to be an annoying cel. you can get it tuned out or just get a defouler which tricks the ecu
#31
and i just finished installing my bad mab header and zzp 2.5 inch dp with high flow cat and threw a code. some of zzps catted dps dont throw codes, some do. its hit and miss. The code wont hurt anything its just going to be an annoying cel. you can get it tuned out or just get a defouler which tricks the ecu
#33
#35
#36
believe me its worth the extra few bucks to get an extra bung. If your getting exhaust work done, like manifold/dp, you want to get a tune to maximize those gains, as stated before.
And once you are tuned, it is a good idea to get a wideband to keep track of ur afr
And once you are tuned, it is a good idea to get a wideband to keep track of ur afr
#37
That's not low. They dyno like 155whp stock. And the guy that posted earlier in the thread dynod at 201whp with his 2.4. And his is a standard. That's the record so far for n/a 2.4 on this site. And a fully bolted and tuned 2.2 isn't going to get 180whp. They dyno like 110-120whp stock
#38
Find a tuner that's local and go to his house...my tuner lived a bit far so we met at an academy parking lot and he tuned me there and we did some pulls and normal driving on the highway while he sat in my car and tuned it.
#39
Umm no.
Get the extra wideband bung if you are going to be tuning with a cat. For max power get the off road downpipe with 1 bung. Then remove your rear 02 sensor and run a wideband in its place, get a tune and delete the codes.
I noticed a sc/tc thread you started what are your plans? If you go turbo this downpipe will not work.
#40
OP the extra bung on the downpipe has nothing to do with a check engine light. Like people have said, it's worth it to just buy the extra bung even if you don't use it so when you go to eventually sell it people will want it more.
You will most likely get a check engine light from the downpipe, sometimes it takes a while like in chevygirl's case but it will usually happen. That defouler I showed you spaces the rear o2 from the exhaust (not the extra bung but the bung that will come in the downpipe for the factory o2 sensor). This makes that check engine light go away. It's worth it.
#41
Get it with the extra bung. And you may or may not throw a code. I did with both the ZZP downpipe and the CTI I currently have on it.
Just plan on getting it tuned.
And kind of on yet off topic Id be happy to dyno 170whp after Im tuned (Im an auto 2.4). But we will see.
Just plan on getting it tuned.
And kind of on yet off topic Id be happy to dyno 170whp after Im tuned (Im an auto 2.4). But we will see.
#43
No, your wrong. The cat efficiency is due to the cat, a header has nothing to do with it. And since your auto your most likely around 160whp, not anywhere near 190-200 but you'll never know until you dyno.
Your also wrong, a 2.2 has never dynoed at 190whp NA, 180whp is the current record most are at 150
OP the extra bung on the downpipe has nothing to do with a check engine light. Like people have said, it's worth it to just buy the extra bung even if you don't use it so when you go to eventually sell it people will want it more.
You will most likely get a check engine light from the downpipe, sometimes it takes a while like in chevygirl's case but it will usually happen. That defouler I showed you spaces the rear o2 from the exhaust (not the extra bung but the bung that will come in the downpipe for the factory o2 sensor). This makes that check engine light go away. It's worth it.
Your also wrong, a 2.2 has never dynoed at 190whp NA, 180whp is the current record most are at 150
OP the extra bung on the downpipe has nothing to do with a check engine light. Like people have said, it's worth it to just buy the extra bung even if you don't use it so when you go to eventually sell it people will want it more.
You will most likely get a check engine light from the downpipe, sometimes it takes a while like in chevygirl's case but it will usually happen. That defouler I showed you spaces the rear o2 from the exhaust (not the extra bung but the bung that will come in the downpipe for the factory o2 sensor). This makes that check engine light go away. It's worth it.
#44
No offense to noorjariri and his setup, but his numbers came from a known happy dyno in the area.
#45
Not 40... but 15-20 less at the wheels for an auto is about right from what Ive seen.
#46
No, your wrong. The cat efficiency is due to the cat, a header has nothing to do with it. And since your auto your most likely around 160whp, not anywhere near 190-200 but you'll never know until you dyno.
Your also wrong, a 2.2 has never dynoed at 190whp NA, 180whp is the current record most are at 150
OP the extra bung on the downpipe has nothing to do with a check engine light. Like people have said, it's worth it to just buy the extra bung even if you don't use it so when you go to eventually sell it people will want it more.
You will most likely get a check engine light from the downpipe, sometimes it takes a while like in chevygirl's case but it will usually happen. That defouler I showed you spaces the rear o2 from the exhaust (not the extra bung but the bung that will come in the downpipe for the factory o2 sensor). This makes that check engine light go away. It's worth it.
Your also wrong, a 2.2 has never dynoed at 190whp NA, 180whp is the current record most are at 150
OP the extra bung on the downpipe has nothing to do with a check engine light. Like people have said, it's worth it to just buy the extra bung even if you don't use it so when you go to eventually sell it people will want it more.
You will most likely get a check engine light from the downpipe, sometimes it takes a while like in chevygirl's case but it will usually happen. That defouler I showed you spaces the rear o2 from the exhaust (not the extra bung but the bung that will come in the downpipe for the factory o2 sensor). This makes that check engine light go away. It's worth it.
#48
So just get the extra bung on there then get it tuned and enjoy your new car
#49
Honestly for the tiny price difference just get the extra bung. it will help if your tuned by a local tuner. It will also make things easier if you plan on further mods in the future. While its easy to take a downpipe off and replace it putting an o2 bung in it later on wont be as cheap.
So just get the extra bung on there then get it tuned and enjoy your new car
So just get the extra bung on there then get it tuned and enjoy your new car
#50
In case it hasn't been said.....Pay for the extra bung. I didn't and I am sorry now. It is definitely worth having for all the reasons that have been stated.
I wish I had one becuase I want a wideband. Now I have to either get one welded in or buy the AEM add a bung kit. Either way more cost and work.
I wish I had one becuase I want a wideband. Now I have to either get one welded in or buy the AEM add a bung kit. Either way more cost and work.