how hard is it to do yourself or is it better to just removed the struts and take them to a tire shop to have them do?

Ive lowered my car myself two times so removing the strut aint a big deal just wondering what is involved in removing the actual insert from the struts any info pics or help would be appreciated

 

It's definitely more complicated than a straight strut swap. Almost the same, but you will need to drill out the stocker, empty the oil, cut the strut, pull guts out, drill some more, and put the new one in.

It sounds hard, but if you read the HOW-TOs available online, it should make it easier. The toughest part is probably cutting the original strut. I suggest a pipe cutter, which will leave a smoother finish. You can use a dremel or sawzall if you're in a pinch, but you will have to do a lot more cleaning up to make it smooth.

Make sure you put a tiny bit of Loctite on the bolt that holds the insert in place. It's a grade 10 or 12 bolt, so it tends to back out, due to a lack of stretch. You can't tighten it back up once the knuckle is attached. Don't ask me how I know.

 

haha oh ok gotcha i might just take them off and take them to local shop to have the inserts put in lol sounds easier esepcially since i dont have a dremel/saw/pipe cutter lol

 

You talking like a copper pipe cutter? If so mike those are cheap and pretty easy to use.

 

Well, it would be larger than one of the small copper pipe cutters. It has to fit around the strut. Don't recall the size. If you have no need for a pipe cutter other than this, it's probably cheaper to use a Dremel, which no car guy should be without.

Just score it all the way around before you start, and for god's sake, drain the oil BEFORE cutting, not after like the Koni instructions say.

 

Hacksaw right here, ghetto style bay bay

 

I've done it, it's easy.

Drill a hole in the bottom to let out most of the oil -- this will be the hole you use to bolt the cartridge in with... As Wangspeed says, it a big honkin' allen screw.

Measure how far up the strut from the lower spring mounting plate you need to go (from the instructions from Koni), wrap blue masking tape (1.5" wide works great) around the strut (a couple layers thick) completely covering where you plan to cut, and use a pipe cutter to cut around the strut -- the tape makes it easy to keep the pipe cutter in place and it makes a nice clean cut). You can buy a pipe cutter big enough at Home Depot or similar for about $10/12 (I got mine at Home Depot) -- it's very clean and easy with a pipe cutter.

I drilled the hole, measured, wrapped the tape, used my pipe cutter, used a file to make sure there weren't too many burrs on the inside of the strut tube, dropped the cartridge in the (now) empty strut and screwed it down tight -- all in about 30 minutes. I wrapped the rubber piece from Koni (you'll see it) over the strut/cartridge junction just to keep it cleaner.

Perhaps not so obviously, you need spring compressors and appropriate wrenches to get the springs off the struts.

When you're done, put the springs back on the same way they came off (make sure the plastic insert is on the lower spring mount and make sure the spring is seated where it's supposed to be down there -- you can't miss it), otherwise you'll get squeeks and other weird noises out of the front end when the springs are rubbing. Note where the tab on the upper spring mount points (if I recall correctly is points towards the engine) and get it back on the same way. Look at everything CLOSELY BEFORE YOU DO anything -- it all goes back together the same way as it came apart.

If you don't have an electric impact wrench (like the ones you can buy from Pep Boys from goodyear for about $60), get one. Getting the struts off and back on is really easy with an impact wrench and some deep sockets.

How to get the struts off (easily): Jack the car up; remove the wheel; remove the swaybar mount (use the impact wrench); loosen the upper mounting nuts under the hood (there are 3, they are about 12mm) and remove all but one nut (but make sure it's only finger tight); remove the two lower strut/hub bolts -- use the impact wrench, it's a LOT faster (pull the bracket that holds the ABS wires off to one side) -- then use a hammer to pound the bolts out -- it's just easier -- be sure to leave the loose nut on the end of the bolts so you don't pound on the end of the bolt itself and mess it up -- pound on the nut screwed on the end of the bolt -- then pull both bolts out by hand; separate the strut from the hub (just push it apart); hold the spring/strut and remove the last upper nut -- everthing falls out at that point.

To get the struts back on (easily): Put the strut in the upper three holes first -- get all three top nuts on and tightened -- push the strut & hub together and push the bolts back in the two holes (they go in pretty easily); put the ABS bracket back on and spin the nuts on the bolts; push the top of the hub in as hard as you can (they're fixed but you may as well as as much negative camber as you can by doint this) and use your electric impact wrench to tighten both nuts; put the swaybar back on (make sure the nut is tight); remount the wheel; you're done.

I routinely switch struts over in about 20 minutes on each side.

If you haven't changed anything else (like the springs), no alignment is required. If you also changed to aftermarket springs, get an alignment done.

Nuff info?

 

haha ive lowered my car twice so getting the struts off isnt a problem usually i take them off take to tire place and have them swap springs tho but the cutting part and all that is the part that scares me lol