bender

Who's done it?

And what was used for the cam tooth sync?

Area47

need to add an msd dizzy

StreetDreamz

Or just an AEM twin fire and some pencil coils. The EMS is capable of reading the LSJ crank, all you have to do is remove the tooth plate bolted to the crank. It's a standard 7x crank underneath ;-)

Area47

there is nothing standard about the trigger pattern of the lsj

StreetDreamz

Have you ever actually seen an LSJ crank? I mean, you've never actually even opened your bottom end. There is a trigger plate bolted to the crank that can be removed revealing a standard 7x crank trigger pattern that even a computer from 1985 can pick up.

383_Stroker

iTrader: (3)

In that case.. I want to build the first ever OBD 1 LSJ...

bender

OBD1 LSJ... lets put it in a Honda!

Joking aside I have torn into the short block last winter, but never payed close enough attention to the trigger plate. I wonder if maybe I could get a 21 tooth plate cnc'd for me for instant sync.


This is all just thinking right now.. but the limitations of HPTuners becomes more and more apparent when you try to push things further and further. Also, I prefer the AEM system over any piggyback, or even standalone, anyday. And with the new V2 out.. V1 boxes are being sold dirt cheap.

Area47

::facepalm::

bender

Well since no one can agree.. when I get time I'll look up the overhaul manual on OD5 and see what it says.

StreetDreamz

I don't think the overhaul manual is going to point out the crank trigger wheel as a seperate piece, as the sole GM PN# comes as the crank and trigger wheel bolted together.

Area I don't understand what the facepalm is for. You yourself have admitted to never cracking the block open. How the hell would you even know what it looks like?

HunterKiller89

iTrader: (1)

while im sure this isnt how he knows...all you gotta do is remove the oil pan and you have a clear view of the crank, rods, and pistons, like this:

elite_Cyborg

iTrader: (6)

I have a crank sitting in my room

Area47

because changing the crank trigger wheel is a harder way of going about doing this.

StreetDreamz

No, you said there is nothing standard about the trigger pattern on an LSJ crank, indicating you've never really paid attention to one. If you have the need to be running EMS, your block should have been taken apart in pieces and the neccesary parts beefed up because you are probably making over 500hp. While HunterKiller's picture is not of an LSJ, it still indicates the standard trigger marks on the crank, which are underneath the trigger wheel that's bolted to the LSJ crank. I don't see an MSD dizzy fitting on an LSJ because of all the **** that's in the way right in that area. I would say if you're going to be running EMS, why would you waste half it's spark capability by using a distributor. Or if you could get it to fit the LSJ you could use the distributor to give the EMS a pick up signal that it can read, but then you'd basically just be wasting money when you can just take the trigger wheel off the crank.

bender

I wouldn't use a distributor, especially since these cars have a COP setup stock. I'll have to check the wiring to see if it is wastespark (which I assume it is).. but it seems a MSD DIS-2 and some dwell tweaking would do wonders. Maybe even MSD LSX COP coils with their box. I don't see spark blowing out for a while.

elite_Cyborg

iTrader: (6)

bender

What transmission is that?

Ryan@zzp

looks like a 4t65

Area47

The LSJ and all second gen ECOs are 60 minus 2. Cam is 4x, with specific pattern(not 90 degrees each)

CKP is a 2wire mag, CKP is a 3 wire halleffect

kbai

USMCFieldMP

iTrader: (1)

Bender. Area is the man. I'd listen to him.

SMG Autosports

The AEM EMS is similar to Big Stuff 3 (what we run in our race car) or many other EMS' out there. You need to run an external crank trigger wheel to get your crank reading for the EMS. EVEN THO the system may let you type in the number "7" in the box that says crank pick-up or number count of crank.... the system assumes and is looking for evenly spaced counts, and the 7 counts that you end up with after removing the wheel on the crank are not evenly spaced. Hence the need for a crank trigger. Reason why alot of the teams (including us) use the distributor is to get a cam sync pickup. Most standalone EMS' and ignition boxes want both a crank pickup and a cam sync signal to work and the MSD distibutor has a cam sync as a part of it. Keep in mind tho, this is not a distrubutor as some of you may think it is. It is used STRICKLY to DISTRUBUTE, that is it, as like in our race car, the Big Stuff EMS and the MDS Digital 7+ box takes care of the timing advance and retarding.

So long story short, removing the wheel on the crank to reveal the 7 tooth spacing on the crank will not work.


That is a 4L65e trans

bender

Are you experiencing any break up or misfires at 9,000+ rpms with that setup? The MSD 7+ should help with breakup, but I am curious on how the distributor pickup is.

And thanks for the useful info!