Anyone install a balance shaft elimination kit (GMracing part XGH676) into an ecotec? The "kit" is basically a timing chain and new chain guide pictured below. GM sent me an email with some pics of the bushings that are needed and what the chain tensioner looks like. What my builder wants to know is what they did to the chain tensioner. I have an email off to GM but I'm curious if anyone else has done it here




Here is the picture of the modded chain tensioner that GM sent me




and the bushing that is needed




(I ordered this before I saw the level zero motorsports elimination kit and I know about the neutral balance shafts)

 

hmmm id like to know this my self

 

I saw this elimination kit earlier in an English thread:
http://www.z22se.co.uk/forum/viewtop...t=5895&start=0
(somewhere at the bottom)

I'm not sure how the oil feed of the chain squirter is handled, as it is fed from one of the shaft bearing. (waterpump side?) Blocking this completely of with a bushing will probably also block the chain oil feed. Not good.. Or do you have a bushing with an oil feed groove on the outside???

 

Thanks, that was helpful. I wish I had the engine in front of me but will ask my builder about the oil supply. Hopefully we can get it to work. I'd rather not spend another $400 on neutral balance shafts

some good pics of the kit installed

 

i know of a balance shaft delete kits. it still keeps the balance shaft sprockets, but there are no shafts behind them. it also uses the chain setup like factory.

pm me and i can give you more info on it.

 

forget pms, I want to know more about this as well

 

That's the level zero motorsports one right?

 

yes it is. ive used it in a couple past motors and it holds up quite well. there is a bushing that must be put in the block at the back of the balance shaft to block oil flow to the rear bearing (as nothing is there now).

 

hmmm I like the looks of this.... what was the cost?

 

See the same English thread on this: http://www.z22se.co.uk/forum/viewtop...t=5895&start=0

This kind of delete kit can be easily done by yourself...

What was the costs of this GM version with short chain and guide? Where did you get it????

 

The GM kit (GMracing part XGH676) can only be ordered through GM racing. I emailed through the tuner source website here and they gave me a address to mail a check
http://tunersource.gmblogs.com/ecote...ical_questions

it was like $220 for the shorter chain and new chain guide. I thought at first it came with bushings but it does not. I ordered before I saw the level zero kit (who offers just the bushings suparate too to work with the XGH676 kit)
http://levelzeromotorsports.com/stor...9da2115ebdf0b7

Since my builder made the bushings already, I'll probably have him just machine off my balance shafts to make it just like the level zero kit. Unless GM can give me a good reason to mod the tensioner.

 

So that GM kit is not complete then... :-(
And rather expensive this way.
I was thinking the same short chain route like GM, but those special guides put me off.
(Want to sell your bits and pieces?? :-)) )


And what bushing did your builder already made? Or do you mean the rear bushes to block the oil feeds??

 

The bushings to block the oil feeds. I may not need my kit depending on what the builder and I decide on monday.

 

Hah, I just saw that your LSJ is actually living inside an Ariel Atom.. NICE!
My LSJ engine is still standing in the garage, but soon to be transplanted into an Opel Speedster aka Vauxhall VX220. (or better say "GM dressed" lotus Elise clone with european L61 engine)

Not an Atomweight, but still only 845kg and RWD! :-))

 

That's a cool car. I wich they offered them here in the US.

 

I have not heard back from GM so we decided to leave the tensioner stock. My builder designed a bushing to direct oil directly to the tensioner and not fill the empty holes. *crosses fingers*

Really, I should just bag the water pump and get an electric one then I would not need the chain at all

 

Hmmm... The kit from ZeroLevel Motorsports is interesting. If the engine is still in the car though, how the hell would I be able to press those bushings in?

Paul, try this instead of the balance shafts! Then you can educate me as to how in the hell we could press them in there correctly with the engine still in the car!

 

You're confusing me..

Did you now use the GM "short chain" kit? And machined new front bushings wich keep an oil feed for the chain lubricator?? (and off course use bushings to block off the rear bearing holes...)

And the tensioner of the waterpump chain has an oil feed???

 

I used the shorter chain and new chain guide from the GM kit, my builder made bushings to block the oil feeds and then I used the stock tensioner without modification. The bushing that was inserted right next to the tensioner has a groove to deliver some oil to the tensioner and chain. I have not seen it in person, this is what my builder told me.

Here is the stock tensioner in the middle (not my engine, just a pic on the UK forum)


For the GM kit they sent me a pic of their tensioner with a flap of metal on the side and an extra piece of metal welded to the end with no explanation. My builder did not know why they did this. He does a lot of balance shaft deletes (just not on the ecotec) and thought the stock tensioner would be just fine.

 

Ah, nice then.

Just double check that your builder ensured the oil feed to the chain spray nozzle, otherwise this will end up in tears very soon...
I did not know that this tensioner also had an oil feed.

Please a pic of the new chain set-up when installed. :-)

 

I did not get a chance to take a pic before the build was completed this morning (finally, waiting for 6 months on this engine project). I reviewed what he did and in addition to the oiling being all taken care of, he did end up adding that little plate to the tensioner just like pictured in the GM. He thought it would be a good idea after all.

 

I read in the UK forum that the pics of this GM delete kit came from some turbo tuned 2.0 ECO, and that plate was some scrap metal and beneficial/necessary over 500HP..
Think you are fine.

Is there an oil spray nozzle at the back of that tensioner? (looks like a small hole)
Or if there is some sort of circlip on that end? For insurance they maybe just sealed up the back of that tensioner by welding that plate on...

 

I never got to look at the tensioner. he said that the metal was just folded over and it looks like all they did was strengthen it but welding on that piece of metal. He assumed they put a stronger spring in there and that is why they needed more strength. But then he said it would not really be wise to heat a spring with a weld like that.

I'm not going over 500 HP (yet) so I should be fine

 

I got a nice email from GMracing today as a response to my question about the tensioner. They had an extra modified one and had mailed it to me free of charge. How about that? I have time to discuss it with my builder to see if it is worth replacing what we did at this point.

 

Where did you get the short chain and upper guide from? Thats the only missing piece in my puzzle