turbo manifold and exhaust side of turbo going to jet hot next week

 

looking good!

 

hey jimbo wat hardware did you us to mount your turbo mani?

 

m10 studs and copper nuts
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=FST
i reccomend tac welding the studs to the manifold, or else they'll fall out time after time.

 

where and whats the model number for the arp main studs?

 

cool thanx

 

no problem

 

idk contact stewart race engines in Indy they are the one that handled all of that....stocks hold fine though

 

what about your rod cap bolts?

 

They are ARP came with the Pauter rods

 

ordered some stuff today

-O.E. radiator
-IAT2 sensor
-MAP sensor
-O.E. overflow tank
-exhaust mainfold studs and nuts


the next two weeks plans
-ceramic coating friday
-Earls for lines and goods friday
-front and rear brake pads
-rear rotors

goal is to be ready for charge pipe fabbing in two weeks if the ceramic stuff is done by then

 

got my lines and stuff from Earl's for $69

got the mani and exhaust side ceramic coated by Pro-kote indy

 

looking good man

 

Im getting really sick of this thing right now. Builds suck when you get way in past your knowledge level if anyone wondered. I am really wishing that i would have done some things alittle different now. I went through and read some of my post about my plans and now want to kick my own ass lol. This has been a long problem filled build and for the most part was a huge waste of cash.

thanx to 06black, Area47, 06blackg85ss, jimboss, and others for the good advice just wish i would have listen more

live and learn i guess

 

i feel you man itll be well worth it in the end trust me

 

well the manifold and turbo is on, but idk if its staying on or if im buying new stuff due to clearance issues.





the turbo is bout a fingers width from the steering rack with the nuts tight. I can get another half inch if i take the steering rack spacers out, but idk if i need to with my mounts. The side of the mani is about the tickness of a ruler from the heater hose hard pipe, but that can be fixed with alittle heat. Still dont know about if the turbo is high enough to drain oil well. My biggest problem is a down pipe though. There is only about 3.5" of room comfortably(from flange to mount) according to my card stock paper down pipe. And thats for a 90 degree bend.....so.....

well i need the flat head bolt, heat and bend the coolant pipe slightly, remove the steering rack spacers, buy the elbow listed above+ a 45degree bend. then all will be fine again maybe. Still need to find out how high above the drain hole the turbo should be????

here my mock up down pipe

 

winter wheels back

 

how low is your car? might be worth it to remove the rack spacers, another thought is if have a good welder or can weld and cut yourself, just cut a half inch off the collector and put on a new flange. shitty thing is it will **** up your coatings though. BTW did you do the AC delete?

 

Mine is close as well not sure if it will be an issue though? oh and dont mind the kink in the drain line I've since shortened it up should drain beauty.

 

Yeh im just going to take out the rack spacers.Should gime about as much room as Stiner^^^. yeh i did the ac delete the Qwiks way....




Stiner do drive your car now? how well does the oil drain from the turbo with the new hose?

 

holy **** thats cool, been thinking about doing an ac delete myself, never use it.

 

Haven't drove it yet should know fairly soon. going to fire it up to make sure everythings working properly.

 

I'm seriously contemplating pulling mine out as well. It would be freaking super easy for me right now cause the motor is out...



It's like getting a tattoo, I just want to make sure I'm not going to regret it. It's possible to reverse, just not easy and usually never the same.

 

my biggest concern would be leaks in the system if i tried to reverse it.

 

pick up a junkyard comp?