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Old 05-14-2008, 12:21 PM
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[QUOTE=Pickles;2327841]
Originally Posted by Malek

In my garage. I figure since I got a long weekend, I should just take the whole damn thing apart and get everything done. I'm already losing one race night cuz of this clutch.
From what I've researched this is not an easy job to do with floor jacks. When my clutch was done it took 14 hours and that was in a shop with a hoist and the proper tools to do the job. I believe that GM quotes 10 hrs.

In a garage and doing this on jack stands is possible but a PITA. It also sounds like you guys have never done one for this car so I would expect it to take much longer. By the way if you are changing the clutch make sure and I can't stress this enough to change the Slave/throwout bearing as well or you will be rippin that trani out in 3 or 4 months to replace it. Also you will need to reverse blead this system at the slave cyclinder connector on top of the trani under the oil cooler at the nipple as well as vaccume bleed it as well.

cheers
Old 05-14-2008, 12:34 PM
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[QUOTE=Kaisoboy;2327860]
Originally Posted by Pickles

From what I've researched this is not an easy job to do with floor jacks. When my clutch was done it took 14 hours and that was in a shop with a hoist and the proper tools to do the job. I believe that GM quotes 10 hrs.

In a garage and doing this on jack stands is possible but a PITA. It also sounds like you guys have never done one for this car so I would expect it to take much longer. By the way if you are changing the clutch make sure and I can't stress this enough to change the Slave/throwout bearing as well or you will be rippin that trani out in 3 or 4 months to replace it. Also you will need to reverse blead this system at the slave cyclinder connector on top of the trani under the oil cooler at the nipple as well as vaccume bleed it as well.

cheers
http://www.gmperformancedivision.com...SJ_Chap5&6.pdf

Most of the time is pulling the lower cradle and the tranny out. I don't care about tough jobs anymore, I just can't stand to sit on this clutch anymore, and I can't afford to have it "Professionally" installed.

Also, with the amount of **** I have to remove to get to the clutch, I might as well do my h/e and springs as well as the meth kit since I will have everything apart anyways, and taking off the front bumper will just make everything easier. Now I just have to find somewhere to paint that bumper while it is off.

Last edited by Pickles; 05-14-2008 at 12:34 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 05-14-2008, 12:40 PM
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[QUOTE=Pickles;2327867]
Originally Posted by Kaisoboy

http://www.gmperformancedivision.com...SJ_Chap5&6.pdf

Most of the time is pulling the lower cradle and the tranny out. I don't care about tough jobs anymore, I just can't stand to sit on this clutch anymore, and I can't afford to have it "Professionally" installed.
That's fine. I really rather do things myself also. I was just relating my experiences. I also helped my mechanic with the rest of the install when I went to pick up the car. I no longer have my 06 SS/SC due to the insesant trani problems I was having with mine but if you take your time and follow the GMPP teardown and rebuild instructions you will have zero problems. I would help but I am leaving to go to Miami on Friday and won't be back until the end off the month.

Do you have a new Slave cylinder/Throw out for the car. Trust me, if you don't have one hold off if you can and get one. You will also need a vacuum bleeder to complete this install.

Good luck
Old 05-14-2008, 12:53 PM
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[QUOTE=Kaisoboy;2327907]
Originally Posted by Pickles

That's fine. I really rather do things myself also. I was just relating my experiences. I also helped my mechanic with the rest of the install when I went to pick up the car. I no longer have my 06 SS/SC due to the insesant trani problems I was having with mine but if you take your time and follow the GMPP teardown and rebuild instructions you will have zero problems. I would help but I am leaving to go to Miami on Friday and won't be back until the end off the month.

Do you have a new Slave cylinder/Throw out for the car. Trust me, if you don't have one hold off if you can and get one. You will also need a vacuum bleeder to complete this install.

Good luck
-Of course Larry. I always appreciate your input and wisdom. Believe me, I don't really want to do it myself all that much, but I'm quickly running out of options.

-I am hoping I will have very few problems, I am working on a full breakdown of what will need to be done for the clutch, he, springs, and meth kit, as well as any specialty tools I will need.

-I knew you were takin off, I hope you have an awesome time. Wish me luck finding folks that can help me this weekend!

-I did grab an new slave, its on its way from CED right now. I'm a little concerned though, as the gm clutch swap manual does not go into slave/tb replacement...
Old 05-14-2008, 01:25 PM
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[QUOTE=Pickles;2327934]
Originally Posted by Kaisoboy

-Of course Larry. I always appreciate your input and wisdom. Believe me, I don't really want to do it myself all that much, but I'm quickly running out of options.

-I am hoping I will have very few problems, I am working on a full breakdown of what will need to be done for the clutch, he, springs, and meth kit, as well as any specialty tools I will need.

-I knew you were takin off, I hope you have an awesome time. Wish me luck finding folks that can help me this weekend!

-I did grab an new slave, its on its way from CED right now. I'm a little concerned though, as the gm clutch swap manual does not go into slave/tb replacement...
The slave/TB is simple. Once you get the trani out it is connected to the bell housing. It is a simple swap and even if you did not swap it out you will still have to bleed the old one once everything is but back together. You will see where the hydrilic line connects to the receptor at the top of the trani. Once you disconnect the hydrolic line be carefull there is a small plastic washer/grommet that may come off that you will have to put back on when you replace the new slave/tb. if you miss this the hydrolic line will leak once you put everything back together and if it is leaking it is a PITA to remove that hydrolic line to put it back in. Make sure to read the teardown completly before starting this job. I believe it mentions it on page 91 to the right. Once you make sure that fitting is on and you reconnect the hydrolic line you will see the reverse bleeder nipple there also.

Here is a how to on bleeding.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...t=clutch+bleed

Keep me posted on your progress. I will have my computer in Miami, so if you need any clearification PM me and I will try and help you.

Cheers

Last edited by Kaisoboy; 05-14-2008 at 01:50 PM.
Old 05-14-2008, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Kaisoboy

The slave/TB is simple. Once you get the trani out it is connected to the bell housing. It is a simple swap and even if you did not swap it out you will still have to bleed the old one once everything is but back together. You will see where the hydrilic line connects to the receptor at the top of the trani. Once you disconnect the hydrolic line be carefull there is a small plastic washer/grommet that may come off that you will have to put back on when you replace the new slave/tb. if you miss this the hydrolic line will leak once you put everything back together and if it is leaking it is a PITA to remove that hydrolic line to put it back in. Make sure to read the teardown completly before starting this job. I believe it mentions it on page 91 to the right. Once you make sure that fitting is on and you reconnect the hydrolic line you will see the reverse bleeder nipple there also. There is a how to on bleeding.

Keep me posted on your progress. I will have my computer in Miami, so if you need any clarification PM me and I will try and help you.

Cheers
Yeah, I noticed that. It talks about a "little cap" on the fitting. I'll watch for that.

I think the only real issues I will have when doing this is a few specialty tools if I can't get ahold of them, and a possible shortage of man power...

So if anyone wants to help me this weekend, I could really use the muscle!
Old 05-14-2008, 02:33 PM
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Hey Pickles ( that is a funny name), are you coming to the big meet at the end of June??
Old 05-14-2008, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by DoubleLP
Hey Pickles ( that is a funny name), are you coming to the big meet at the end of June??
I sure am, considering I helped you plan it.

-----------------------------------------------

HEY TRAVIS. Do you think you would have a couple minutes to stop by and help me put the front springs in? I think I might as well get them on there while I have the tranny out, as the strut assemblies will be loose from the drivetrain anyways.

I can have the strut assemby's out and prepped with the spring compressor on hand, I just thought it would be easier for me to do them the same time, as it saves pulling the steering knuckles and axles apart again.

---------------------------------------------------------


Oh, and Larry, I also found these two links for bleeding.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...ghlight=clutch

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...ghlight=clutch


So I am fairly concerned about this bleeding process, with so many opinions on how to do it...

Last edited by Pickles; 05-14-2008 at 03:25 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 05-14-2008, 04:21 PM
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WOOO i get my new hood this week!!!!!no more piece of crap one
Old 05-14-2008, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Pickles
I sure am, considering I helped you plan it.

-----------------------------------------------

HEY TRAVIS. Do you think you would have a couple minutes to stop by and help me put the front springs in? I think I might as well get them on there while I have the tranny out, as the strut assemblies will be loose from the drivetrain anyways.

I can have the strut assemby's out and prepped with the spring compressor on hand, I just thought it would be easier for me to do them the same time, as it saves pulling the steering knuckles and axles apart again.

---------------------------------------------------------


Oh, and Larry, I also found these two links for bleeding.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...ghlight=clutch

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...ghlight=clutch


So I am fairly concerned about this bleeding process, with so many opinions on how to do it...

what day!?
Old 05-14-2008, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Pickles
I sure am, considering I helped you plan it.
Then why aren't you on the list??
Old 05-14-2008, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Buboom
WOOO i get my new hood this week!!!!!no more piece of crap one
Can't wait to see it haha. Your car is going to look much better.
Old 05-14-2008, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Banzai2.4
what day!?
Whatever day. I am going to start ripping the car apart after work on Friday, and Start into the clutch Sat. Morning. Its going to be hard to say when I will actually have the tranny free from the car, but I have prepped myself to go all weekend.

Originally Posted by DoubleLP
Then why aren't you on the list??
I am. But most of you would know me as "neo01".

Originally Posted by MLeclair
Can't wait to see it haha. Your car is going to look much better.
Carbon Fiber?

Last edited by Pickles; 05-14-2008 at 04:46 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 05-14-2008, 04:56 PM
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alright, maybe sunday day...
Old 05-14-2008, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Banzai2.4
alright, maybe sunday day...
Yeah for sure. If you have the time whenever, I'll have the strut columns out and set aside. I am mostly just nervous about doing them myself cuz I never have before.
Old 05-14-2008, 05:11 PM
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haha no worries

does tha tget me discount on a tune!?

Last edited by Banzai2.4; 05-14-2008 at 05:11 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 05-14-2008, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Banzai2.4
haha no worries

does tha tget me discount on a tune!?
I dunno. I suppose we could work something out, although I'm already only charging you for the 2 credits needed to license your vin.
Old 05-14-2008, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Pickles
I sure am, considering I helped you plan it.

-----------------------------------------------

HEY TRAVIS. Do you think you would have a couple minutes to stop by and help me put the front springs in? I think I might as well get them on there while I have the tranny out, as the strut assemblies will be loose from the drivetrain anyways.

I can have the strut assemby's out and prepped with the spring compressor on hand, I just thought it would be easier for me to do them the same time, as it saves pulling the steering knuckles and axles apart again.

---------------------------------------------------------


Oh, and Larry, I also found these two links for bleeding.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...ghlight=clutch

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...ghlight=clutch


So I am fairly concerned about this bleeding process, with so many opinions on how to do it...
Those are two good links. You will need to Bleed it both ways. First fill the break reservior to the full mark then place the cap back on and pump the clutch paying close attention to the level in the reservior. (do not let it empty on you. You will probably use a couple of bottles of break fluid to refill the clutch.) Once the clutch pedal becomes firm remove the cap off of the reservior connect the vacuum bleeder and folow the instructions on those threads and you should be OK, (Again make sure that when filling and vacuum bleeding you do not drain the reservior) Once you have vacuum blead from the top it is time to revers bleed from the bottom. (This may require two people as it is like bleeding brakes. Same principle) Connect a break bleeder kit hose to the nipple on top of the trani where the fluid goes into the Slave/tb (see second thread for this). fill the bleeder cup about a quarter full and make sure the other end of the bleeder hose is below the fluid in the cup (very important) now have someone pump the clutch about 15 times then hold it down with your foot. Once you have done that have someone else loosen the nipple slightly until you feel the clutch hit the floor (keep the clutch to the floor during the bleeding process) you will then observe air bubbles coming out of the trani and up the hose. Re-tighten the nipple and repeat the process until you do not see anymore air bubbles and your done.

You may want to drive the car around for a couple of days and put the vacuum bleeder back on to get the rest of the air out after cycling the trani.

Once you get the car back together I suggest you take it easy on the new clutch for at least and no less than 1000km to break it in.

Oh. You can also talk to Ed (sidejam) or Chris (spaz) about the procedures.

Oh and yeah... QUIT CHANGIN YOUR NAMES!!! An old guy like me gets confuse easily!!! LOL

Cheers and hope this helps.
Old 05-14-2008, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Kaisoboy
Those are two good links. You will need to Bleed it both ways. First fill the break reservior to the full mark then place the cap back on and pump the clutch paying close attention to the level in the reservior. (do not let it empty on you. You will probably use a couple of bottles of break fluid to refill the clutch.) Once the clutch pedal becomes firm remove the cap off of the reservior connect the vacuum bleeder and folow the instructions on those threads and you should be OK, (Again make sure that when filling and vacuum bleeding you do not drain the reservior) Once you have vacuum blead from the top it is time to revers bleed from the bottom. (This may require two people as it is like bleeding brakes. Same principle) Connect a break bleeder kit hose to the nipple on top of the trani where the fluid goes into the Slave/tb (see second thread for this). fill the bleeder cup about a quarter full and make sure the other end of the bleeder hose is below the fluid in the cup (very important) now have someone pump the clutch about 15 times then hold it down with your foot. Once you have done that have someone else loosen the nipple slightly until you feel the clutch hit the floor (keep the clutch to the floor during the bleeding process) you will then observe air bubbles coming out of the trani and up the hose. Re-tighten the nipple and repeat the process until you do not see anymore air bubbles and your done.

You may want to drive the car around for a couple of days and put the vacuum bleeder back on to get the rest of the air out after cycling the trani.

Once you get the car back together I suggest you take it easy on the new clutch for at least and no less than 1000km to break it in.

Oh. You can also talk to Ed (sidejam) or Chris (spaz) about the procedures.

Oh and yeah... QUIT CHANGIN YOUR NAMES!!! An old guy like me gets confuse easily!!! LOL

Cheers and hope this helps.
Haha. I had to. It was about time, and the only time.

I figured my sig would give it away...
Old 05-14-2008, 06:24 PM
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^ That's the only reason I figured out who the hell you were...Well that and you said you knew I was heading to Miami...haha

WoooHoooo...two more sleeps!!!!
Old 05-14-2008, 06:35 PM
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ok so im officially lost who is pickles.
Old 05-14-2008, 06:38 PM
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pickles is mark..

haha im jus buggin u mark :P

Last edited by Banzai2.4; 05-14-2008 at 06:38 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 05-14-2008, 06:40 PM
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ah i was like since when is their another tuner in calgary lol.
Old 05-14-2008, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by outtamymind
ah i was like since when is their another tuner in calgary lol.


I shoulda kept you guys guessing.
Old 05-14-2008, 06:48 PM
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you guys are slow, did his sig not give it away, i knew right away, not to mention the way he was talking about needing help painting a front bumper and all.. i guess im jsut exceptionally smart.


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