my 14 yr old "lady" friend could kick your ass though!!!

 

Nah she's scared of speed. Hates the sportbike and pretty much anything i do. She was scarred to let me longboard at night.

 

Thanks for the good times guys. Was nice to chat about cars and ****. Has been too long for me, haha. Hope to see everyone again on Friday / Saturday.




(and without large ford van in b/g, lol...)


Oh, and here is the link to the $149 "small" H/E that is always on eBay:
http://search.stores.ebay.com/CXRaci...278660QQsofpZ0
And here is the other company that sells them on eBay for some reason, lol:
http://stores.ebay.com/Just-Intercoo...QQftidZ2QQtZkm

Anybody have a link to the CX Racing H/E that is the "big" one?

 

I think the one in the eBay ads is the 'large' one.
Here is the link for CXracing...
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...gory_Code=HTEX

The large on has a core of 24x8x2.5... where as the smaller on is 21x6x2.5

 

too bad i couldnt make it. next time

 

... a guy on 306 is looking for info on Cobalt SS's.
http://www.306motorclub.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=27284

If anyone is a member, post up some stuff... or one of us can relay the info...

 

tell him they suck.

 

You suck... you missed the meet.

 

OK that all makes sense now. So the big one is $149 then - sweet.

 

I wonder if I'm still banned....

 

Well I went on a shopping spree this morn. Bought CxRacing H/E, dual pass end plate and option b kit. Now all the waiting is gonna kill me.

 

The same guy sent me a PM saying he was interested in my car.

 

Sweeeeet! Man, I iz jealous! Is that the Crate Engine Depot kit? And are you installing it yourself? If you are, I might have to come watch / help, so that I can learn how....

 

... as a warning, there is a bolt on the bottom of the intake manifold that you'll need to take out. It's a bitch to get at too.

 

Ya, the option b and end plate are from crate engine. I'm gonna install myself. My dad has a shop with hoist, every tool imaginable so it shouldn't be too hard.

I was looking at your intake pics. My dad has an aluminum gun for his tig welder. He's a journeyman with his pressure ticket, could prolly weld your manifold back together.

 

Just ordered BFG KDW-2's in 235/40ZR18 this weekend......

 

Nice!

 

Should i be considering colder spark plugs and 60# injectors?

 

You would need a tune for the 60's, but from what Tyler says - if you have the money for it - sure.

 

That IM was just my test bed. I'll weld it up some day... but by then I'll probably have my welder set up again.
Thanks for the offer though.

Do 235's fit without rub?

Colder plugs... with that 2.85... probably.
60's... depends on your injector duty cycle. You don't want to put them above 80% too often... and defiantly don't want them going static.

Indeed. 60's require a custom tune... and doing do, pretty much defeats the purpose of the Stage 2 kit all together.... as you swap the injectors and re-flash the tune anyways.

 

It becomes a $500 belt/pulley, lol

 

they should. im pretty sure there are some guys running 245's without any issues

 

With the 2.85 pulley at what point would i be running past the injectors "safe" duty cycle. Every time i hammered on it? Would i be running the engine too lean?

 

Well, it all depends on the amount of fuel being fed into the engine. Here is a quick injector run down...
Oh... and sorry if I'm down talking or anything... I'm just trying to make it understandable to everyone.

The important thing is to not over work the injectors. We try to keep the duty cycle below 80%. IDC (Injector duty cycle) is the percentage of time the injector is powered. An injector supplies fuel by opening a disk or pin (depending on style) to allow fuel to flow. This amount of fuel is controlled by the pulse width, or time the injector fires for. We measure this in milliseconds (ms).

With that said... start with the ECU... it needs to add fuel to the motor to keep it at a desired AFR. So, putting more air into a motor though boost will require more fuel (pretty much a given). However, the motor adds fuel based on the various adders, such as intake temperature.

For ease though, lets assume no adders. The most fuel you will use in a given amount of time is at WOT, redline, full boost. At WOT, the engine is usually commanding the richest AFR. At full boost, the most air is entering the engine. And at redline, the injectors are pulsing the most often, as each injector pulses every time air/fuel is taken into the cylinder.

So... as the ECU commands for more fuel to be added, the injector must remain open longer. But remember that the higher the RPM, the less time the engine cycle lasts for. This is where things get crazy. Say at 3000RPM, where the cycle lasts for 40ms, the ECU commands that the injector stays open for 15ms to obtain the proper fuelling, then the IDC would be 37.5% (15ms/40ms*100%). Using the same procedure, at 6000RPM, where the cycle is only 20ms long, that same 15ms command from the ECU to obtain the proper AFR, now puts the IDC at 75%. Your still ok there. But at 8000RPM (if you dare to set the limiter that high), the cycle lasts for only 15ms. That 15ms pulse commanded by the ECU is now putting the injector at a 100% duty cycle. That means that it is staying open all the time. Holding the injector above an 80% duty cycle for too long can cause damage to it. Pushing the engine past an injectors supply rate (100%+) can cause a lack of fuel to be supplied to the engine.

The easiest way to find your IDC is to hook up HPT and log the duty cycle on a good pull. If you spike too high, you may want to consider either reducing the boost, lowering your redline, or upgrading your injectors. You can also increase your fuel pressure..... but that's another ball of wax...

 

Sweet. Thanks for the info. I guess I'll have to get some one to check it out after all the mods are on.