80 mph shifted to 1st
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80 mph shifted to 1st
Hey I know this sounds stupid to you guys but I am new to the car and only been driving it 700 miles I was on the highway and some dodge diesel with a chip and some mods thought he could own the balt so I am doin about 80 after wasting him and seen a cop and accidentaly through it into first and it popped out of gear made a weird clunk & reved the engine real up in the rpms .. I will never do it again but just nervous w/ the new car.. I feel retarded .. But I do not care about pride right now I just care about the possible damage ...
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I would seriously start looking into this to be on the safe side, it cannot be good. I assume no cel? no smoke of any sort? does it shift ok? maybe tell us how its driving and it there is any symptoms etc...
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Car should be fine, I had something similar like that happen to me when I first got my car, granted I wasn't doing 80mph and going into first but it did the same thing that you described. I've had my SS/SC for two years, and the tranny is doing just fine...
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Yeah It shifts just like it did and no smoke no smells .. Like i said it was night and i was on the way home so wasn't 100% sure if it was from 4th to third or 3rd to 1st but what ever it was it reved way high and made a noise like CLINK and poped out the gear it was in I am about to drive it today and see if its ok. should I drain trans fluid and look for metal shavings or just drive it and see how it does I will never do this again I know that much. As far as getting it into that gear is beyond me usually she wont pop into first untill its below 20mph.
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see, what happened was...
you started to enage first, and the synchro tried to speed up your input shaft on the transaxle to match the required speed, while you were releasing the clutch. 1st gear is 6k rpms @ 30mph, so... you tried to get your engine and input shaft to spin @ ~16k rpms, and it isn't a motorcycle so it won't happen.
the centripital force of the gears mass resisted the high speed change, because our drivetrains are not meant for such rpms. b4 you fully engaged, you slightly engaged... did you redline? b4 you could, the blocking rings on the synchro for 1st and 2nd likely threw the shifter back out of the gear b4 you could fully get into gear. your synchro blocking rings grinded and caused the noise.
that's the best description of what happened i can give, no worries, as long as u can engage 1st properly, your clutch is sticking, and you have no codes you'll be fine. and yes check your tranny fluid for shavings. if you have some, it's ok, just baby your tranny and learn to make more precise, fluid shifts. like many have said, enagaging 1st over 20mph and it's tough, unless you rev match. next time be careful!!
if you're learning to drive stick on this car, learn to engage properly and where the gears are located b4 you try and downshift. i do not tolerate cobalt abuse! jk. enjoy your car, don't blow it up
the centripital force of the gears mass resisted the high speed change, because our drivetrains are not meant for such rpms. b4 you fully engaged, you slightly engaged... did you redline? b4 you could, the blocking rings on the synchro for 1st and 2nd likely threw the shifter back out of the gear b4 you could fully get into gear. your synchro blocking rings grinded and caused the noise.
that's the best description of what happened i can give, no worries, as long as u can engage 1st properly, your clutch is sticking, and you have no codes you'll be fine. and yes check your tranny fluid for shavings. if you have some, it's ok, just baby your tranny and learn to make more precise, fluid shifts. like many have said, enagaging 1st over 20mph and it's tough, unless you rev match. next time be careful!!
if you're learning to drive stick on this car, learn to engage properly and where the gears are located b4 you try and downshift. i do not tolerate cobalt abuse! jk. enjoy your car, don't blow it up
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you started to enage first, and the synchro tried to speed up your input shaft on the transaxle to match the required speed, while you were releasing the clutch. 1st gear is 6k rpms @ 30mph, so... you tried to get your engine and input shaft to spin @ ~16k rpms, and it isn't a motorcycle so it won't happen.
the centripital force of the gears mass resisted the high speed change, because our drivetrains are not meant for such rpms. b4 you fully engaged, you slightly engaged... did you redline? b4 you could, the blocking rings on the synchro for 1st and 2nd likely threw the shifter back out of the gear b4 you could fully get into gear. your synchro blocking rings grinded and caused the noise.
that's the best description of what happened i can give, no worries, as long as u can engage 1st properly, your clutch is sticking, and you have no codes you'll be fine. and yes check your tranny fluid for shavings. if you have some, it's ok, just baby your tranny and learn to make more precise, fluid shifts. like many have said, enagaging 1st over 20mph and it's tough, unless you rev match. next time be careful!!
if you're learning to drive stick on this car, learn to engage properly and where the gears are located b4 you try and downshift. i do not tolerate cobalt abuse! jk. enjoy your car, don't blow it up
the centripital force of the gears mass resisted the high speed change, because our drivetrains are not meant for such rpms. b4 you fully engaged, you slightly engaged... did you redline? b4 you could, the blocking rings on the synchro for 1st and 2nd likely threw the shifter back out of the gear b4 you could fully get into gear. your synchro blocking rings grinded and caused the noise.
that's the best description of what happened i can give, no worries, as long as u can engage 1st properly, your clutch is sticking, and you have no codes you'll be fine. and yes check your tranny fluid for shavings. if you have some, it's ok, just baby your tranny and learn to make more precise, fluid shifts. like many have said, enagaging 1st over 20mph and it's tough, unless you rev match. next time be careful!!
if you're learning to drive stick on this car, learn to engage properly and where the gears are located b4 you try and downshift. i do not tolerate cobalt abuse! jk. enjoy your car, don't blow it up
Hey man you are my hero LOL ...I am not learning the manual ... I am used to sport bikes tho .... and my F-body Shifter. the 6 spd isn't as light as the Cobalts trany so ... LOL it's hard sometimes to remember what your driving in the midde of tryin to beat someone on the road randomly it was late and I had just had my ass handed to me by a magnum with a rebuilt engine and supercharger so I was kinda nervous hoping this big 3 ton dodge doesnt lay the smack down on me again that would suck for a car I just paid 23k for you know?
Yeah I drove it today and she hauls ***** so no worries !!! Actually it is amost shifting better now LOL
hmmmmm.....
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Hey I know this sounds stupid to you guys but I am new to the car and only been driving it 700 miles I was on the highway and some dodge diesel with a chip and some mods thought he could own the balt so I am doin about 80 after wasting him and seen a cop and accidentaly through it into first and it popped out of gear made a weird clunk & reved the engine real up in the rpms .. I will never do it again but just nervous w/ the new car.. I feel retarded .. But I do not care about pride right now I just care about the possible damage ...
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you started to enage first, and the synchro tried to speed up your input shaft on the transaxle to match the required speed, while you were releasing the clutch. 1st gear is 6k rpms @ 30mph, so... you tried to get your engine and input shaft to spin @ ~16k rpms, and it isn't a motorcycle so it won't happen.
the centripital force of the gears mass resisted the high speed change, because our drivetrains are not meant for such rpms. b4 you fully engaged, you slightly engaged... did you redline? b4 you could, the blocking rings on the synchro for 1st and 2nd likely threw the shifter back out of the gear b4 you could fully get into gear. your synchro blocking rings grinded and caused the noise.
that's the best description of what happened i can give, no worries, as long as u can engage 1st properly, your clutch is sticking, and you have no codes you'll be fine. and yes check your tranny fluid for shavings. if you have some, it's ok, just baby your tranny and learn to make more precise, fluid shifts. like many have said, enagaging 1st over 20mph and it's tough, unless you rev match. next time be careful!!
if you're learning to drive stick on this car, learn to engage properly and where the gears are located b4 you try and downshift. i do not tolerate cobalt abuse! jk. enjoy your car, don't blow it up
the centripital force of the gears mass resisted the high speed change, because our drivetrains are not meant for such rpms. b4 you fully engaged, you slightly engaged... did you redline? b4 you could, the blocking rings on the synchro for 1st and 2nd likely threw the shifter back out of the gear b4 you could fully get into gear. your synchro blocking rings grinded and caused the noise.
that's the best description of what happened i can give, no worries, as long as u can engage 1st properly, your clutch is sticking, and you have no codes you'll be fine. and yes check your tranny fluid for shavings. if you have some, it's ok, just baby your tranny and learn to make more precise, fluid shifts. like many have said, enagaging 1st over 20mph and it's tough, unless you rev match. next time be careful!!
if you're learning to drive stick on this car, learn to engage properly and where the gears are located b4 you try and downshift. i do not tolerate cobalt abuse! jk. enjoy your car, don't blow it up
that has to be the best post ever in the history of n00bs!
great post!
#21
Senior Member
dont worry man, with my 2nd gear synchro disintegrated right now i can shift into 2nd with no clutch and make the MPH shoot up past 160 and the radio is on auto volume High so it just turns the radio up and down when i do that
#24
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you started to enage first, and the synchro tried to speed up your input shaft on the transaxle to match the required speed, while you were releasing the clutch. 1st gear is 6k rpms @ 30mph, so... you tried to get your engine and input shaft to spin @ ~16k rpms, and it isn't a motorcycle so it won't happen.
the centripital force of the gears mass resisted the high speed change, because our drivetrains are not meant for such rpms. b4 you fully engaged, you slightly engaged... did you redline? b4 you could, the blocking rings on the synchro for 1st and 2nd likely threw the shifter back out of the gear b4 you could fully get into gear. your synchro blocking rings grinded and caused the noise.
the centripital force of the gears mass resisted the high speed change, because our drivetrains are not meant for such rpms. b4 you fully engaged, you slightly engaged... did you redline? b4 you could, the blocking rings on the synchro for 1st and 2nd likely threw the shifter back out of the gear b4 you could fully get into gear. your synchro blocking rings grinded and caused the noise.
If you're really concerned and worrying about it you could always have a used oil analysis done. That's one of the best ways to spot internal engine damage or excessive wear this side of a full tear down.
Also one other thing related to this since it comes up occasionally (usually when someone is asking about doing a 5th to 2nd downshift instead of into 4th) and that's the subject of the rev limiter. Remember that the rev limiter is an electronic limit imposed by the computer where it cuts fuel and spark to prevent the engine from powering and spinning itself over the red line/fuel cut-off point. If you manage to somehow downshift into too low of a gear and let out the clutch, the momentum of the car and the speed the wheels are spinning is going to travel backwards through the trans (where the gear multiplication occurs), through the clutch then flywheel where it will physically spin the engine up too high (and there's nothing electronics can do once that's happening).