Anyone make a firmer mount set for the LNF
#1
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Join Date: 07-30-08
Location: Phx. Az
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Anyone make a firmer mount set for the LNF
I dont want the TTR kits, they're excessive and will shake\vibrate the car to pieces I've experienced them!!! Very bad...
Thx
Thx
#2
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#4
#5
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But i have one customer i am working with that still has hop; i am interested in figuring that one out. there are so many other things to deal with in terms of power hop, once the root cause is fixed there are issues like tire pressure, (he had too much) road surface, (cant do much about that,should be able to handle that) condition of the car in terms of damping (shocks bad? Strut mounts/bearings shot?) or control arms loose (bushings shot?) etc. or upper mounts broken or too rigid, etc etc. hard to do it all on the internet....etc
#6
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Exactly
well here i am disagreeing with you. i got it you are right ... there is no question the frequency changes it is a question of what someone can live with. The LNF mounts stock i have tried in my redline. they change the frequency of vibration. The dont change the location of the engine. I didnt like it so i changed back to lsj inserts at the back and my special front. I liked that and power hop is still gone.
But i have one customer i am working with that still has hop; i am interested in figuring that one out. there are so many other things to deal with in terms of power hop, once the root cause is fixed there are issues like tire pressure, (he had too much) road surface, (cant do much about that,should be able to handle that) condition of the car in terms of damping (shocks bad? Strut mounts/bearings shot?) or control arms loose (bushings shot?) etc. or upper mounts broken or too rigid, etc etc. hard to do it all on the internet....etc
But i have one customer i am working with that still has hop; i am interested in figuring that one out. there are so many other things to deal with in terms of power hop, once the root cause is fixed there are issues like tire pressure, (he had too much) road surface, (cant do much about that,should be able to handle that) condition of the car in terms of damping (shocks bad? Strut mounts/bearings shot?) or control arms loose (bushings shot?) etc. or upper mounts broken or too rigid, etc etc. hard to do it all on the internet....etc
#7
Senior Member
I agree..... My buddy FF_ace has 297 whp on his LNF and he has TTR mounts and eibachs and he still has a good bit of wheel spin in 1'n'2 gears still!!!! The down sid eto the TTR mounts is that his car is now developing rattles, and squeaks on the interior from being to firm... The damn car seems like it may rattle apart soon..... To bad pedders doesn't make suspension\bushing for these cars....Seems the LNF with anything more than 280 whp will always have a wheel hop\traction issue unless you drive with slicks on the road in your DD...
#8
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I agree..... My buddy FF_ace has 297 whp on his LNF and he has TTR mounts and eibachs and he still has a good bit of wheel spin in 1'n'2 gears still!!!! The down sid eto the TTR mounts is that his car is now developing rattles, and squeaks on the interior from being to firm... The damn car seems like it may rattle apart soon..... To bad pedders doesn't make suspension\bushing for these cars....Seems the LNF with anything more than 280 whp will always have a wheel hop\traction issue unless you drive with slicks on the road in your DD...
#9
Former Vendor
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If you dont want your car taking a chance to have vibs, CEL, etc, DONT MODIFY/TOUCH YOUR CAR... Pretty simple....
LOL yes that is a very true statement, most all FWD have this issue.
Last edited by TurboTechRacing; 01-10-2009 at 03:56 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#10
Senior Member
That would be another choice, but lets be serious, vibs only at idle? Solid/poly mounts also only have vibs at idle also... After that the engine has less "harmonic" vibrations and neither will have vibs. That is why some will raise their RPM a few hundered RPM, and the vibs go away, even with poly mounts...
If you dont want your car taking a chance to have vibs, CEL, etc, DONT MODIFY/TOUCH YOUR CAR... Pretty simple....
LOL yes that is a very true statement, most all FWD have this issue.
If you dont want your car taking a chance to have vibs, CEL, etc, DONT MODIFY/TOUCH YOUR CAR... Pretty simple....
LOL yes that is a very true statement, most all FWD have this issue.
#11
Former Vendor
iTrader: (24)
As far as data goes, they BOTH have the same amount, both have been field tested successful. So lets not call the kettle black.
1 has no vibs (OTT stage 1)
1 is a bit more with vibs, than the stage 1 (OTT stage 2)
1 is a bit cheaper with vibs (TTR SMM)
Each has their own benifit.
#12
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
That would be another choice, but lets be serious, vibs only at idle? Solid/poly mounts also only have vibs at idle also... After that the engine has less "harmonic" vibrations and neither will have vibs. That is why some will raise their RPM a few hundered RPM, and the vibs go away, even with poly mounts...
If you dont want your car taking a chance to have vibs, CEL, etc, DONT MODIFY/TOUCH YOUR CAR... Pretty simple....
LOL yes that is a very true statement, most all FWD have this issue.
If you dont want your car taking a chance to have vibs, CEL, etc, DONT MODIFY/TOUCH YOUR CAR... Pretty simple....
LOL yes that is a very true statement, most all FWD have this issue.
#13
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
I just installed a set of the StageII OTTP "full race mounts".
Let me tell you, they are bitchin'.
Zero wheel hop, and vibration level almost completely indistiguishable from stock. HUGE difference compared to polys(what was taken out to install the OTTP rotated mounts)
This is on a 280+whp/300wtq SS/TC.
Let me tell you, they are bitchin'.
Zero wheel hop, and vibration level almost completely indistiguishable from stock. HUGE difference compared to polys(what was taken out to install the OTTP rotated mounts)
This is on a 280+whp/300wtq SS/TC.
#14
I have the ttr mounts and love them.. The bottom line is the cobalt has a cheap interior that will vibrate more than say a toyota or honda will, an easier solution is to run to good mounts and fix the individual vibrations as they occur....
#16
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
put a sub in any car and itll rattle.
the problem with the balts is the driveline angle when lowered. rubber mounts wont transmit that into the car nearly as much. throw urethane in and at idle you have the normal poly mount vibration that any car gets, but when ya get on the throttle you get the driveline vibration. most cars dont get that, but the axle ange causes it and its extremly annoying.
i have urethane in my car right now, i have a set of ott mounts on order, ill let you know the difference i feel when i get em.
the problem with the balts is the driveline angle when lowered. rubber mounts wont transmit that into the car nearly as much. throw urethane in and at idle you have the normal poly mount vibration that any car gets, but when ya get on the throttle you get the driveline vibration. most cars dont get that, but the axle ange causes it and its extremly annoying.
i have urethane in my car right now, i have a set of ott mounts on order, ill let you know the difference i feel when i get em.
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